1940s | 1950s | 1960s

SOS- Assistance Please!

May 11, 2014

Hi! Its me again. Okay, long story short, I made a playsuit/jumper/sunsuit. Its cute. See?



Slight problem though. Without the creative scrunching of fabric, well…

Its a box. A cute box but still.

Im an Apple shape and so if you put a box on a box its… well a box. From head on the playsuit is charming, probably due to the adorable heartshaped thing I’ve got going. But from the side the line from the , er… biggest point of my bust falls straight to the biggest point of my belly in a straight line. I need to emphasize my underbust line which is the smallest point of my body and keeps me from looking well…

Heres an image In Production which highlights the problem:



Any advice? I’ve played with darts but its not achieving the VaVaVOOM that I know I possess. (After all, I buy the bras lol)

I intend to wear it with a skirt and a bolero a La:



Thank you!

http://pleasantlymalformed.blogspot.com/2014/05/mccalls-6969.html (The post about the Playsuit)

  1. Have you tried French darts? (Darts coming from the waist side seam up to about 1″ from the bust point?) They tend to give more shaping from the bust to waist. Either that or add teardrop-shaped darts that go vertically down from right below the bustpoint, get widest at the waist, then narrow below that. Both of those are frequently used in vintage patterns.

  2. I was also thinking about shirring (sewing rows with elastic in the bobbin) at the waist, either all around or at the back. But since I haven’t tried it yet, I am unsure if this will shorten the length of the garment?!?

  3. Maybe this is just a crazy thought, but what about a draw string? It would be reasonably easy to add the casing into the waistline and string a tie through it for some waist definition. But that might add bulk if you are planning to wear it with skirts. Maybe only if you want to wear it by itself. just a thought…

    1. Going with shelley’s suggestion – elastic in the casing.
      When I made one I used a high waist shorts pattern & a cute sun frock bodice, so it has a seam around the waist. It then has waist darts in the shorts, as you do, & the front had darts up from the waist to the bust. Not sure if that is any help.

  4. I would also be leery of wearing it without the skirt. The wide hemline of the skirt will narrow your waist to give you more of that va-voom factor you’re looking for. I too am rectangular and almost exclusively wear a wide hemline unless I’m wearing really modern jeans and a T.

  5. I think you would be much better served by a vintage sewing pattern rather than a modern one. The modern pattern doesn’t have a true-waist waistband, it really has a yoke that comes up to the waist. This starts the eye much lower and the yoke expanding down over the belly makes it appear bigger. A vintage skirt (whether ’40s or ’70s or even ’80s) will have an essentially straight waistband around the narrowest part of the body (what is nowadays considered a high waist but for decades was just considered the waist), with the skirt volume springing out just below the waist point. This gives the narrowest possible waist effect and tells the eye that any volume below that is skirt gathers, not necessarily belly.

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