1950s | Dresses

Academy 4832, some advice please?

December 23, 2012

Hello, I thought I’d share my current project, I’ve been putting together this, perhaps wearable toile, and I’m now considering lining it…  Here’s the pattern sleeve (isn’t it divine?) the dress I’m making is version three, the center black number, wide fold over collar, slim skirt and three quarter sleeves.

I have some construction photos, so you may see it coming together, and maybe get some idea of the fabric – and that is what’s making me think more – I have a feeling I’ll need to line it, as I know I’ll love to wear it.  The thing is, the fabric, bought at an op shop, is some kind of 100% synthetic, medium to heavy weighted woven material (in the burn test it immediately melted into a black blob).  It seems to be creating a good form, but I think it’s going to feel awful on skin!  It is just slightly see through, when I hold it to the light, and has no stretch or give at all.

And if I’m going to line it, I think this would be the moment to do it – and it will be my first lining project.  Eeek, I’m keen to do it, and I guess, after any tips or suggestions, I was thinking of cutting the bodice, sleeve, and skirt pieces out of lining material (I have recently inherited some fabulous red lining material – and plenty of it) sewing it together inside out, and then attaching it by hand or machine to the inside.. is that the typical approach?

More photos, I just love the low back collar and the pleats on the shoulders, are so simple and beautiful, I think!  What are your thoughts?  Thanks in advance x

  1. Just jump in and give it a go, I always find attaching the facing to the lining first helps. put the bodice inside out on the stand and check that everything sits well before you sew it in. Its a good idea to give yourself a bit of a jump in the sleeves and across the back with the lining.
    I am starting babel on now, but do it in two pieces ( as in skirt and bodice) it will seem less confronting 🙂 and sew as much as you can on the machine, but there will be spots that hand sewing can be pretty.
    Good luck I hope I didn’t confuse you too much 🙂

  2. Great, thanks Lady A, all sounds good, I have been reading about adding pleats in lining, say at the center back in jackets, so will see if I can build in more ease, around the upper arm/shoulder area.

    I’m thinking (famous last words..!) surely it can’t be that hard, just cutting and sewing twice as much, and extra fiddly finishing I suppose. Though the more I think about it, beautifully lined garments appeal to me! And this will be practice for a cape I plan to make for winter…

    Exciting! Thanks again, watch this space, I’m thinking it’ll be at least another week on this dress then 🙂

  3. You should be able to attach the lining by hand – what you’ve suggested is good – just the bodice and sleeve pieces minus the facings (and add seam allowances in these areas).

    I know your fabric is a poly and therefore probably quite difficult to press, but I highly suggest ironing the cr*p out of it to try and get those darts and seams flat as you go 🙂

    Anyways, I think hand sewn linings are so much prettier, and you have a lot more control that way. That said, I’ve not lined a sleeved garment – half finished coat will be the first one!

      1. Yes, ironing will definitely help and will give the dress (which is a great style!) a polished professional look. =) If you are worried about ironing a synthetic fabric, use a press cloth of muslin or some other cotton to keep it from getting shiny iron marks. Organdy is another great fabric for using as a press cloth because you can see through it, but it keeps the iron from touching the garment directly. When in doubt, experiment with scraps.

        As most of the commenters have said, you can make the lining using the same pattern. Give yourself a little extra length at the bottom of the sleeve lining (like they do in lined coats) to keep the sleeves from pulling up on the outside. And hem the lining and outer skirt separately (two hems) – the outer skirt can be about an inch longer to hide the lining. Attach skirts with handsewn swing-tacks on the seam allowances if you need to control the lining a bit more.

        Can’t wait to see it finished!

  4. Linings are not hard. You’re basically sewing the outer shell twice, once inside out. If it were a coat, soemthing that has two distinct unattached sides, you could machine sew most of it in minutes, but you’ll probably have to sew this one in by hand. Its a little extra work, but its so worth it! A beautiful lining will add so much appeal!

  5. That is a great pattern. It makes up so much like the illustration! I can certainly see why you want to salvage the “muslin.”

    When ironing a plasticky fabric, first test on scraps to find the hottest setting that won’t melt it (!) or make it shiny. Then, it helps to iron from both sides: press the seam open on the wrong side in the usual way, then flip to the right side and press again, working the tip of the iron into the seam.

    When all else fails, a line of topstitching about 1/16 of an inch from the seam line makes a world of difference on structured garments in stiffer fabrics.

  6. This is a lovely dress! Lining isn’t that tricky, as had been said you just cut double of your main pattern pieces and have to sew double the amount of darts. One thing I would add is press your lining darts opposite of your dress darts so they will meet at the center. This is supposed to add support to the dart and make it last longer.
    I’m not sure how that rolled collar is attached but if it is a separate piece it will probably be easier to take it off and baste the lining to the fashion fabric then reattach the collar. Otherwise you’ll want to fold the raw lining edge over and handsew along the neckline.
    Good luck it is a splendid dress!

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