1960s | Dresses

Simplicity 3789

July 23, 2012

I am in the process of making a dress using simplicity’s 3789, which is a raglan sleeved dress:

Since I have never done a raglan sleeve before, I would like some feedback on my muslin of the bodice.
Front view, pardon the bra and the less than perfectly pinned side seam.

Side seam. There appears to be a problem with the top of the sleeves, but I am not sure if it is a fit problem or resulting from the rather stiff nature of the muslin.

Finally the back, seems to fit pretty well.

I have not made any adjustments of the pattern, even though it is supposed to be for a 86 bust, and mine is 84.

  1. On the underarm, reinforce the intersection of seams. If you don’t, the sleeves themselves can easily rip out, as my mother learned when she was first starting out sewing!

  2. What kind of “fit problem” at the tops of the sleeves? From the pix it looks as though you might have squarer (less-sloped) shoulders than the pattern does, or possibly that your shoulders are broader than the patterns, but I can’t really tell. From here, it looks as though there is a wrinkle running diagonally from the sleeve/bodice seam in front, about three inches down from the neck, up toward the point of your shoulder, which would suggest you need more room and possibly a different angle to the sleeves at the shoulder. Does this have seams or darts along the tops of the sleeves/shoulder (ending at the neckline)?

    Anyway, if you describe it more, maybe we can help you fix it. Uncomfortable sleeves stink.

  3. I really love this pattern. I think the square neckline is universally flattering on all body shapes. I think your muslin looks pretty good. I’m not seeing the wrinkle that Dust Bunny is talking about, but I agree with her that the muslin stage is the easiest time to correct little fit issues like that. If your muslin is really stiff, try prewashing it. It will soften up enough to simulate the drape of 100% cotton prints that I use frequently. I like this a lot, and can’t wait to see your finished product!

  4. Here is an edited picture highlighting the perceived wrinkles in red. (I crystallized your face, not because you’re not adorable but because I thought you might not want to be pasted all over the Internet.) Also, sorry about the terrible Photoshop drawing.

    1. Ah, I can see what you mean now.
      What I am planning to do now, is to make a new muslin, leave the dart on top of the raglan sleave unsewn and have my sister pin it so it does no pull and is snug.
      I am wearing a modern bra.

  5. Humm. I’m not sure about the sleeves, as all my raglan experience is in knitwear, but are you wearing a modern bra or a vintage one? Those bust darts look too high from here. I think if you wear a vintage bra, it would be okay, but as it is now I think you need to shorten the vertical ones and lower the horizontal ones.

    Can anyone with more expertise weigh in?

    1. I can see that now that you point it out, thanks. I am making a new muslin with the corrections.

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