1940s | Dresses | Rompers / Playsuits

(almost) simplicity 1975: a field of poppies in tana lawn

May 29, 2012


i’d been toying with the idea of purchasing simplicity 1975 for something like months when i decided to do it properly:  draft it myself.  the sizing on the pattern specimen i’d located is so off i’d have ended up re-drafting the thing anyway to get it to fit properly, and i wanted to learn how to draft a strapless bodice that might actually fit me.

it took me two tries, because i misunderstood some measurements in my pattern drafting book, but my trustly sloper did not steer me wrong and i ended up with a very serviceable strapless bodice with princess stylines. step one completed!

much-loved but ill-fitting vogue 2961

then i had to disassemble a much-loved but little-used garment, my vogue 2960. it was one of my early garment attempts, and while it was actually pretty f-ing awesome for a girl who had only been sewing a few months, that girl, now with almost 3 years’ experience, cringed every time she put it on and it sagged in all the wrong places. i saved the skirt (mostly out of laziness and fabric stinginess) and constructed my bodice, including a boning underlayer and bra cups (construction details here).

it still needs tweaking, because in order to finish it this week (for the sew weekly 1940s challenge) i had to take a few shortcuts that need to be fixed in order for this dress to have the glory it deserves. firstly, because i purposely constructed the bodice with more torso than i should have, i need to tweak the fit near the waist. you may be able to see in the photo that there is a lot of blousing where the bodice meets the skirt, and that is because i need to shorten the torso of the bodice so that it matches the width of the skirt more accurately. i did it this way because otherwise, i was afraid the waist would be too short. according to my moulage, i am absurdly short-waisted, but i’m still in denial about this, so i figured i’d rather have more torso than not enough.

also, because i can only go to the buttonholer on saturdays, i closed this (temporarily) with a CF zip, which is throwing off the perfect fit under my arms and just at my bust. the bodice was drafted to accommodate the overlap of a button placket, not a zip.

all in all, i’m quite thrilled with the final result, because now i have a wonderful strapless sloper to work with! i already have two more tops rarin’ to go and plans to fix a long-stranded UFO that i accidentally fit too small. (two inches at the CB! how does that even happen?!)

full story, including construction details and inspiration photos, at puu’s door of time.

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