Vintage Sewing

General sewing question

March 4, 2012

I don’t think this site has a search function so I couldn’t see if anyone had already posted about how they deal with this. I never make clothing out of white fabric. Partially because the facing shows through. The outside, plus facing and interfacing become denser and are a different color than the rest of the piece. How does everyone usually solve this? Do you face and interface with “skin” tones? Does interfacing even come in colors other than black and white?

  1. Well spotted, Holly – I must have accidentally deleted the search function one day while tinkering about. I’ve put it back (scroll down a bit and you’ll see it under the ‘archives’ in the sidebar) 🙂

  2. I don’t sew with white because I’m a messy cook! ;^) But I did see an article a while back in Threads discussing using lightweight fabrics in lieu of interfacing/interlining in a skin tone appropriate to the wearer. If I can find the issue/article, I’ll post back on where to find it.

  3. I line them rather than face them. And in either a light color or the same fabric. If it’s a solid, I use the same fabric, if it’s a print (and there are light-on-light and/or white-on-white fabrics) I line it with, say, white poly/cotton batiste.

  4. You need to line and make pockets out of a skin colored fabric. Threads had an article on this so if you search their index you can find more info. Using a skin tone fabric really works.

  5. thank you : ) i’m kind of lazy so for this particular dress, i decided to make some bias tape out of the fabric and use that on the neckline. (no pockets in this version.) we’ll see how it goes. will try lining in the future.

  6. hi,
    i have found that sewing pockets in pale grey works better than nude on the whole, also if you totally bind seams in nude you have very little show through.
    you generally have to line garments right up to the edges and inbetween facings and outer layers.

  7. If it’s that sheer, I generally feel it needs a full lining. Then interfacing, and all your seam finishes that would otherwise show through, aren’t such a big deal. Using a nude fabric of the same weight would be fine for interfacing, though …

    If you want to keep your garment sheer (or don’t mind the sheerness), try binding with bias strips of a nude fabric pressed to the inside, instead of facings. Bonus: freedom from horrible flipping facings.

  8. it isn’t sheer, it’s just a white cotton. so the different in color between it on my skin and on another layer of itself is noticeable. and then i get a weird visual circle around my neckline.

    i probably will wear a slip to avoid undergarments showing. since this is the first time i’m making the pattern, i don’t feel like wrestling with the lining. i always end up doing that. linings are my kryptonite or something.

  9. The best article I’ve ever read addressing this issue is Lisa Shepard’s article “Invisible Underlayers” in Threads issue #96, Sept 2001.

    I used organza to match my skin tone as interfacing in a white blouse and it worked wonderfully. has silks in a ton of weights and colors. I ordered a swatch card, peeled off some of the little squares of fabric, stuck them to myself, and draped the fabric over that and picked the color that didn’t show through. I was really surprised by the color I ended up with as it was not a shade or hue I would have ever guessed would work, but it really did.

  10. The latest issue of Vogue Patterns magazine has an article on “flat lining”. It is a technique where the lining is sewn together with the fashion fabric as a sort of underlining. This technique makes seams, darts and facings invisible from the outside AND at the same time finishes the raw edges of the fabric leaving them looking like a Hong Kong finish. How great is that! La Sewista has a tutorial on how to do it, or just Google “flat lining”. Good luck!

  11. My usual choices are any or a combination of:
    Self fabric interlining
    Nude/flesh opaque coloured loose lining (or, rarely, several layers of organza/chiffon)
    Organza interfacing

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