Vintage Sewing

sew country chick: Vintage and Couture techniques: Underlinings

December 29, 2010
This is a pink silk Shantung vintage style dress I made from a self- drafted pattern,
I have been studying vintage sewing technique. Above is one of my books where I learned that most clothing of quality fabric was often constructed with underlinings. It’s a 1970 version revised from 1961. The drawings must be from 1961 because they don’t have a late 60’s feeling at all. Underlinings are different from linings because they are backed to your fashion fabric. You baste a mirror of the  underlining to the fashion fabric pattern pieces. They then function as one. Underlinings are only used in tailoring and formal wear nowadays. It’s now considered a couture technique.
Above is the pink silk underlined with white silk organza which is very sheer. It gives a lightweight but crisp hand to the silk Shantung. The dress also has a China Silk lining and self fabric facings , giving the bodice four layers.

The inside of the bodice showing the China silk lining and pink silk facing. The underlining is inside and no longer visible.

I underlined the skirt with an old sheet to give it more body.

 A pickstitched hook and eye closure.

The finished dress. It has a draped pleated skirt.

sew country chick: Vintage and Couture techniques: Underlinings: “Pink Silk Shantung vintage style dress I got this great book at the thrift store Called The Better Homes and Gardens Sewing Book from …”

  1. I have this book, and I love it. I have never drafted a pattern, I'm not that brave yet. You did a fantastic job, it looks beautiful!

  2. GREAT explanation on the underlinings… that makes sense!

    It's a GORGEOUS looking dress and I love dark heels with lighter dress colours!

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