Vintage Sewing

Help with French dart adjustment

September 11, 2010

You pack of genius readers, you, can you help?

I am making up Simplicity 3833 60s retro reissue for a friend and need to do a small bust adjustment.

But, there are tricksy seams and modified French darts at the front and I’m a bit intimidated. (Link above has a tab for technical drawings.)

I would love some advice. Thanking you!

  1. Would sew the upper and lower pieces together before sewing the dart… I'm sure they put that in the instructions.

    However, French darts are pretty "stuck" when it comes to fitting, so be sure your measurements are correct before sewing, and give yourself additional seam allowances at the side seam, just in case.

    Also, I would sew the back waist darts AFTER the rest of the dress is done (or just baste into place), as that will allow you a bit more leeway to adjust the fit at the waist, if you need it.

  2. Make a muslin first and fit it to your person. I'm fairly small of chest, but rarely do I ever bother to make an SBA. We small girls are usually OK with the Big 4 chest sizes. If you do need to make smaller, it might be easier to figure it out from the muslin.

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