Vintage Sewing

French Darts Forever

July 11, 2010

I have known for quite some time that French darts are my kind of darts. However, there is a bit of a love/hate thing going on, because French darts and short waist adjustments are match made in hell. But when I saw this pattern and there was not only a dress, but also a jacket with these darts I had to have it, no matter how difficult it would be to get it to fit me.

After a first hopeless muslin I have managed to get the dress to a wearable stage, although a few minor adjustments would still be helpful. I only I knew how to make them. If anyone can point me towards a tutorial on the manipulation of French darts I’d be so thankful.

Some more views on my blog.

  1. Love the fabric you used, looks cute. You can turn other kinds of darts into French darts – search some on dart rotation or check out some vintage sewing books.
    You should keep your eye out for petite or half-size patterns, if you regularly have to shorten patterns. There are a lot more available in vintage patterns than there are these days…

  2. I also don't know anything about french darts, but this is gorgeous!!! 🙂 I love the length of this dress and the fabric used.

  3. A Frenchie, just like any other boobdart, should end precisely 2 cm´s ( smidge less than one inch ) from your highest point. AKA the nipple. For bigger cup sizes two or more darts are recommendated. ( Frenchies can also be divided, just as any other darts ) You might get away with just one, but it needs subtle sewing towards the end. You never draw a straight line and sew along. You´ll end up with too pointy darthead and you´ll end up looking perma- cold * cough *, so round up the seam towards the end of the dart. Then fold the sewed dartbtm towards the middle, steam and press carefully with a ham ( or use a raglan shoulderpad if you don´t have a tailor´s ham ). If you´ve rounded up the finish at the dart, you are left with a beautiful dart.

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