Vintage Sewing

Vogue 1084 – Fitting

February 26, 2010

This is the first project that I have posted here since I join this blog. I’m make a dress for a client and thought it would be good to post the fitting process.

Over the weekend I was able to sew and fit the muslin for Ms. PB’s banquet dress. As a rule I make muslin for clients. It helps me with fitting, of course, and it helps identify the challenges in the construction process and how well the pieces go together. With each project I glean more useful information from the muslin process. Making the muslin provides information on how the garment will look draped on the body. One of Ms. PB’s first questions about the pattern illustration was, “Will the dress stand out as it does in the pattern drawing?” My response was, “I’ve learned over the years that the drawing may be a little exaggerated. The truth in the shape and foam of the dress will come in the muslin made in a similar fabric as the desired dress.” In this case, there was not a lot of body in the form of this dress. It hangs close to the body.

Fitting changes: The overall pattern fits a little big on Ms. PB. Throughout the bodice and skirt I could have cut the pattern between size 16 and 18 instead of size 18.

– Sides take in 1/2 inch
– Sway back adjustment needed — increase the darts and fold out about 1/4 inch along the center back (small back area)
– At upper back seam where the sleeve and bodice join, take in 1/4 inch
– At shoulder seam increase the seam allowance of the back upper sleeve

There are a few challenges: the joining of the side front to the front bodice/skirt was that the upper and lower corners. And the upper seam of the side front didn’t evenly go together. So that needs to be tweaked just a little bit.

Design changes:

– Sleeve length is above the elbow
– Add slits at upper sleeve seam
– Cut skirt at pattern length, but it may be adjusted at first dress fitting
– Deeper pleat at center back

That’s it so far. Will see how the next fitting goes.

  1. It is looking great. I am tempted by this pattern. There are some great examples of this dress on blogs. I love all your notes on the muslin!

  2. Thanks for this. Very helpful but also makes me feel bad for deciding to forego the muslin for my first vintage sewing project this weekend. The fabric I've bought is almost as cheap as muslin though so not that much of a risk, I hope!

  3. The pattern is gorgeous. I really like the back. I hope you post a picture of the finished product because I would love to see it.

  4. Thanks ladies. Cindy thanks for the 411 on blog posting of this dress. I came across one on PR. I'll google it again to see if I can find some tips. Happy Sewing!

  5. It's a 50s era pattern, yes? From my mom, I know that they wore lots and lots of stiff petticoats to get the effect of the skirt as shown on the pattern envelope. She says that it was a contest between her and her sister to see who got up the earliest, because that girl got the most petticoats!

  6. Cennetta- Sew Tessuti blog has a post on this dress and so does Claudine at Adventure in Sewing. Both blogs are on my blogroll. Can't wait to see it. I think, I am hitting the Vogue sale for this one!

  7. I love to use the muslim idea, I however have to do my own fittings with Darling husband pointting out all the things he can see.

    Would love to see the finished dress. Good luck!

  8. I made this pattern for a wedding I went to in November and it went down a treat so was definitely worth the effort. I made an net underskirt which helped give it more shape.

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