Vintage Sewing

Introducing Another Anna

August 24, 2007

Hi Everybody,
I’ve been enjoying this site for awhile so when I made a linen jacket from a 1960-ish Simplicity pattern I decided it was time to step up to the mic. My neighbor was throwing away a box of old sewing patterns when I happened to be passing her house so she gave them to me. This pattern didn’t have an envelope but I looked at the pieces and determined they were pretty much all there.
I made a sketch for myself of how the Jackie-O suit probably looked, it was size 14 1/2. The length was fine for me, I’m 5′ 4.5″. I used the “Sew Fit Manual” pivot & slide method to make it fit my girth. It has three quarter sleeves, I added an elbow dart to them, these sleeves are maddening if they’re too tight. I also made real pockets from what must have been decorative flaps. I used Claire Shaeffer’s “High Fashion Sewing Secrets” to construct them. Becasue of the length of the jacket, they won’t hold more than a theater ticket and a two coins.
I thought I’d have enough fabric to make the A-line skirt that was part of the pattern but I don’t. The pattern includes a sleeveless, jewel necked shell also (of course). It just so happens I have some yardage that will make a nice summer dress to go along with this, stay tuned. I also made my first post to Pattern Review about this, with a few more picutres.

  1. Hi Linda,
    This was probably the first book I ever bought on fitting (didn’t stop me from searching for that magic bullet though) and I had forgotten about it until I recently read a comment on PR where someone had compared this method to slashing and spreading for a full bust adjustment__just for the heck of it, and found the results (patterns laid together) to be identical. Made me go back for a second look. I’m trying to re-learn it, age has made my figure more “baroque” and it’s not always clear what alterations will help. I like the Palmer Pletsch “Fit for Real People” but pin fitting tissue on myself makes my head boil. I’ve gotten into pattern drafting and find that with a good set of my measurements and drawing the patterns without seam allowances so I can check actual measurements, things go pretty well. I’m committing myself to making up a muslin first on any new pattern. That helps.

  2. Can you give more details on putting in an elbow dart?

    I made a dress from a 1940s pattern that had elbow darts, but thought it made the sleeve hang funny.

  3. Hi Bopeep,
    These were simple, one piece sleeves. I measures from the top of the sleeve cap down to where my elbow would be (about15″) and slashed the pattern form the back sleeve seam to the front. I spread the amount I wanted my dart to take up. I made the dart 3/4″ wide but I could have made it deeper if I didn’t want to feel the jacket around my elbow at all, maybe 1 1/4″. After spreading that amount, I retraced the pattern, making the dart only 3′ long. If I’d made the dart deeper, I’d have made it longer, maybe 4″. let me know if this was helpful.
    Anna R.

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