1950s | Pattern Drafting

My 1950’s suit

By on April 27, 2015

Hi everyone. I’m happy to reveal my new suit. I’ve thought about making a 1950’s style suit for a couple of years but now I have finally given it a go.

voor1For this suit, I used a peculiar fabric from my stash, a linen tweed. The hand is a bit weird, stiff and limp at the same time, which makes it misbehave in the skirt. For the jacket, I used a very lightweight fusible interfacing which took care for those issues.

62feea25124bfe73dde117956820b93aI drafted my own pattern based on this picture from an issue of the Dutch ladies’ magazine Libelle. 

10312768_438598262982827_235609074456462868_nFor the hat, I used V8008 which has been in my stash for years, in fact, for longer than any of my vintage patterns. I made the pillbox from the suit fabric, interfaced it with mid-weight fusible cotton and lined it with thin synthetic felt. Instead of the flower decorations included in the pattern, I put a large flat bow from the same fabric on the back, tied up with a ribbon in a bow.

voor:zij1It’s not perfect, but nevertheless, I’m quite pleased with my suit. You can see more pictures and read more about it on my blog.

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1940s

Suitable for Spring

By on April 5, 2015

I’ve always wanted a great vintage suit but have had a hard time finding one in my size and price range. So I finally broke down and sewed up my own!

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I actually made this up from two different vintage patterns-Simplicity 4013 and Simplicity 1659. It’s made from a yummy red linen with vintage buttons.

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A work in progress shot! This pattern is actually from 1939 which is one of my favorite years for fashion! I also want to make the dicky to go with the jacket.

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It turned out quite fabulously! And it’s so comfortable to wear and looks effortlessly chic. It really makes me sad that suits have gone out of fashion unless you work in a very conservative office or are going for a job interview.

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I’m also excited about the mix and match-ability of this suit! It really makes me sorry that I waited so long to make up this suit! For more photos and construction detail, pop over to my blog.

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1940s | Jackets | Pattern Drafting | Skirts

UFO finished; a green linen suit.

By on May 2, 2013

I finished a UFO that got stuck right after the first fitting, oh, about seven or eight years ago. That calls for celebration, doesn’t it? It’s a fitted suit jacket, aiming for a 40’s silhouette, and it was left unfinished because tailoring is, or was, kind of intimidating; but I really love the fabric, a heavy, bright green vintage herringbone weave in what I’m pretty sure is linen, and I needed a jacket for spring, summer and fall wear, so I went ahead and did it.

There were a few problems, to begin with; I made the pattern a very long time ago and had lost it, of course, so I made a new one from the cut-out pieces for the lining. I also had a couple of remnants of the fabric that I really wanted to make a skirt out of, but the fabric, having spent a number of years in someone’s attic, had a few large sunbleached areas that were unusable and needed to be cut around. I managed to puzzle out a skirt from tiny pieces anyway before I got to work on the jacket, which was stupid, because as it turned out, I hadn’t cut the jacket collar when I cut the rest of the garment. And this green, let me tell you, was not an easy shade to match – for a while I toyed with the idea of making the collar from the only matching fabric I could find, an upholstery canvas, and then covering it with tiny cross-stitching in a matching green mouliné yarn. My mother came to the rescue with a beautiful green silk twill from Burma, though; I sent a small sample of the original fabric with her. The rest of that fabric will hopefully make a nice dress some day.

Also, I had to refit the jacket, again, mostly because I made a false start at it about four or five years ago, did another fitting then and remembered it as being a bit tighter than I like jackets now, for whatever reason. So I put it together with a smaller seam allowance than originally planned to give it some extra ease now, only to find that it was huge on me and needed adjustments in the opposite direction. On the bright side the fabric was lovely to work with, firm but still pliable, with a nice drape for such a heavy fabric. It certainly wrinkles like linen, but that’s mostly only noticeable in the skirt.

The end result is alright for a jacket I made the pattern for almost ten years ago, and a skirt made from impossibly small scraps of fabric. I still love that shade of green and the herringbone texture. I could be happier with some of the details, but I always could, every single time. And I’m getting a lot of wear out of it at the moment. Mission accomplished.

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Suit in action. The snow is gone now, thankfully.

 

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1940s

A winter suit…advice needed

By on August 20, 2012

Yep, already thinking about winter. Well autumn, winter, spring and summer apart from the fortnight heatwave that happens. lol!

I have a navy blue skirt I love and wear very often and it got me thinking I need a suit, matching skirt and jacket. Although I’d wear the jacket more as a ‘coat’. Now I have simplicity 4044. I love the skirt pattern, made it up twice already….but the jacket doesn’t inspire me.

Now I stumble across the pattern in the centre. I really like the blue with polkadots. And simplicity 3688 looks quite close.

Now, Here comes the questions:

1) Has anyone else sewn both skirt and jacket with this pattern? Anything to be careful of?

2) What fabric? I’ve only ever successfully sewn with 100% cotton and poly cottons before. Would something like a gaberdene be best? Or should I try a wool blend? What exactly are suiting materials?

 

I hope to complete the ensemble for around £50. Is this an impossible budget?

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1940s | Hats | Jackets | Skirts

Swing Suit

By on January 25, 2012

Vogue 2444 is one of my recent projects.  And although I was unsure about the silhouette to begin, I am converted!  I love the swing jacket, and the sleeves.  Pure glamour!  And best of all, I have nothing else like it in my closet.  I feel like I have expanded my wardrobe horizons.   Sometimes stepping out of one’s comfort zone can be a good thing!

While the suit was in its planning stages, I remembered this hat that I made years ago.  It has been seriously neglected and deserved a little time out of the hatbox.

As always, more pictures and construction information may be found over on my blog, Lilacs & Lace.

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1940s

Vogue 2476 OOP

By on January 22, 2012

I’ve been dipping in and out of wesewretro for ages and I’ve always admired the garments that contributors make and show. Well, I took the plunge and tried it myself. I bought the pattern on Etsy ages ago and never got round to making it so way back in November I made a start and finished it in mid January! An epic journey, though I have to admit to having sewn contemporary pieces inbetween. Anyway, the travelling is now over and I am so happy with the final outcome. What can I say – I love this suit. I love vintage styles. They are so much more feminine and cut to suit an hour glass like mine. The jacket and suit are comfortable, stylish, fit well and no-one has said “That’s old-fashioned” – what they’ve actually said is ” You made it?!” don’t know if it’s a question or an exclamation. I’ve got more pics and the actual journey documented over at http://sewruth.blogspot.com/, if you’re really interested in seeing the whole construction process – otherwise, just enjoy the finished article.

What I can say with absolute certainty is that I will be making more vintage patterns in the future. Thank you WESEWRETRO – I do!

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