1940s | Dresses | Pattern Drafting | Vintage Sewing

Wrestling With Rayon

By on June 11, 2016

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Everyone loves a good LBD right? I recently began a quest to create one for each of the eras I wear the most often (20s-50’s) and found some amazing quality black rayon to use for a forties dress! The only problem was I had to fight the silky stuff to do my bidding! A lot of rayon seam binding was involved with the creation of this dress!

I took my usual bodice pattern and modified it so that the sweetheart neckline was higher so I could wear dress clips at the neckline. I also used a puffy sleeve pattern with 1/4 inch shoulder pads sicking out just over the shoulder line into the sleeve puff for a stronger structured 40’s shoulder. I think most late 30’s and 40’s dresses look just a little bit more vintage with shoulder pads inside, don’t fear the shoulder pad! The most time consuming part of making this dress was simply spent focusing on not screwing up at any point and binding all of the interior seams since rayon likes to fray. I am not the most patient so working on this dress over several weeks seemed like an eternity to me!

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Now that my new 40’s LBD is finished, I am so happy with how everything came together and I can’t wait to wear it again and again with different hats and accessories. For more photos of this dress visit me at The Closet Historian!

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1940s | Vintage Sewing

Another Dance to go to

By on March 20, 2013

Hi guys  I have been wanting to share this one with you for a while …. a 1940s  party dress for my daughter to swing in

an original 1940s pattern made up in a  green polyester crepe

made up exactly as pattern stated, just shortened the pattern pieces for petite frame…..after pinking the seams I realised that the fabric frayed too much so I had to bind all the seams of with ‘Hug Snug’  Rayon seam binding …I love this stuff and can only get it online from the states.

I also finished the waistband and shoulders with some lining to cover all the raw edges at these points.

then I used a concealed side zip after realising that a metal one sewn in with the vintage method interfered with the pockets and covered buttons and loops for the back opening.

a crochet snood and little velvet flowers in her hair and she is all ready for the dance

this dress could be embellished on the yolk and waistband and can be dressed up or down

would look fab with big jewellery but you can’t dance in that I’ve been told 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1980s

Out of the Eighties Top

By on March 20, 2012

Pattern: McCall’s 4632 (1989)

I created this top using McCall’s 4632 from 1989. Originally the pattern was to be sold in my Etsy shop but that view F in the bottom left hand corner looked attractive. I was thinking of making it in a fabric with more drape but I’m trying to sew out of my stash. Therefore, I located just enough of this cream/oyster twill to try it out. The fabric (which must be old, I can’t remember what I made with the rest) is pretty luxurious with a smooth hand and a slight sheen.

The style is loose, basically a square but the gathered shoulders add interest. It reminds me of a lot of the simple shells I’ve been seeing around from independant designers. It was extremely easy to make and I especially liked the fact that the yoked area on the front is actually overhang from the back pattern piece. I was thinking I could use that detail on many more projects so why not work off of this pattern piece than make my own from scratch.

Since the pattern was created in the late eighties it was designed for 1/2″ shoulder pads for that big shoulder look; therefore, I had to remove some length from the armholes and quite a bit of width at the sides. I ended up taking two inches off the length and two inches from EACH side, so four inches off of the width. I will be using this pattern again with a more suitable fabric, like crepe de chine or voile. It could also make a really cute dress.

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