1960s | Vintage Sewing

A 60s worky shirt-dress

By on July 12, 2015

simplicity 6772 vintage shirt dress

I do like a vintage shirt-dress. I’ve made two previously: the 1940s Shoe Dress and The Shirt-Dress Revisited. But this one is 20 years on from those and definitely more understated!

I made it from cheap suiting from Shepherds Bush market. Mainly to test the pattern grading needed to get this to fit. But I’m glad it worked as well as it did because I’ve ended up with a totally wearable test garment.

simplicity 6772 shirt-dress

The sleeves need a bit of messing with though. Way too much ease for my liking and the shoulders are a little too big on me to be fair.

It’s got 12 darts which do their job on creating a great silhouette. None of that ballooning at the back!

simplicity 6772 back view

I do love the little kick pleat too. Far more sophisticated than a slit!

Next one is cut out with adjustments made and ready to tailor tack so hopefully be back soon with a new and improved version!

simplicity 6772 sewing pattern

More waffle over at ooobop!

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1950s | Blouses | Vintage Sewing

Vintage wrap-blouse

By on December 14, 2014

vintage wrap blouse

I made this blouse using vintage pattern Bestway D.3,109. It looks to be one of those mail order style patterns from the 50s. I can’t see a date so I’m going by hair and shoes on the cover image!

Bestway D3109

It’s a wrap-over top, held closed with two vintage buttons. The third button is for decorative and balancing purposes! The bottom two buttons sit just above the waistline at the base of the two waist darts. It could really do with a fourth hidden button to keep the under wrap layer in place. But for now, I’m tucking it in my pants!

lighthouse shirt buttons

The back is cut in one piece with extended sleeves and the front yokes form the sleeve fronts.

I love the shape of the neckline and how the collar just lays flat across the collar bone. I’ve not seen this style on any other garment to date.

And as most 1950s patterns go, I love how it’s nipped in at the waist for that flattering silhouette.

lighthouse shirt

When I came to choose the fabric, I knew I needed a crisp, 100% cotton fabric but I didn’t bank on finding a lighthouse print! I think it worked perfectly to achieve the whole vintage repro style!

vintage lighthouse blouse

For more vintage and modern hand-makes, please pop over to ooobop!

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1930s | 1940s | Dresses

1939 Vintage Simplicity Dress

By on August 6, 2014

vintage 1939 dress front

There’s something so magical about creating a dress from an original vintage pattern. Especially when it is 75 years old! This is Vintage Simplicity dress pattern number 3302. And when I came to open the envelope the pieces were not only all present but in pristine condition too!.

vintage simplicity sewing pattern 3302

I just fell in love with the sweetheart neckline and the elegant shape of the skirt. I don’t quite shape up to the lovely svelte ladies on the packet but then I guess they had slightly less food on the table in those days!

side view of dress

The sleeves are  quite something. They are gathered and stiffened with silk organza and have an inverted pleat at the hemline. Pressing the seam onto the sleeve is very important. You wouldn’t believe how high they stick up on the shoulder otherwise!

detail of sleeve pleat

I have a feeling the fabric might be vintage too. I scored it at my local charity shop for a fiver! It’s quite soft and far more drapey than I would expect cotton to behave. And it was only 35 inches wide. Possibly rayon?

sleeve detail

More detail and pics over at ooobop!

 

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1940s | 1950s | Dresses | Mad Men Inspired | Pattern Drafting | Vintage Sewing

mono dress & faux film noir

By on May 28, 2014

self drafted dress film noir

This dress is my second attempt at pattern drafting. I re-drafted my bodice block and made further alterations but still I need to take some volume from the back.

This was apparent when I came to draft the skirt. There was precious little difference between the back hip and waist measurements!

But I went with it after checking the measurements of the bodice.

It all works reasonably well but the side seams sit a little bit too forward for my liking and I’m sure by taking out the excess at the back it will make them sit properly. And will also give the back skirt a better shape at the waist!

self drafted wiggle dress

Hoping to prove myself right with the next version.

The design is based on a general 50s shape but I really like the angular necklines of the 40s. I’m not sure of the fabric content. It could be upholstery material! About 6 meters was given to me so I figured I could use it for this test dress and have plenty left over if I messed up!

As for the crazy  photos, Mr Ooobop was determined to practice with his new camera flash and who am I to argue?! A little wave of the Photoshop wand and abracadabra, all sorts of crazy faux film noir was achieved!

self drafted wiggle dress

More over on the blog

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1950s | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

Self-drafted retro top

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self-drafted retro check top

This top is the result of a pattern-drafting class I took recently. The fit isn’t great but it’s one step in the right direction.

I gleaned the design from a 1950s pattern envelope but totally drafted all the pieces myself.

self-drafted retro top

It has a zipper up the left side in true vintage style and is fitted at the waist so I can wear it tucked into a high waist pencil skirt.

I created facings for the armholes and neckline. I wasn’t sure how to do it in one piece what with the rolled over bias collar and all. But its no big shakes. I just tacked the sleeve facings to the neck facing with a couple of stitches on the shoulder line. If I did it again, I might consider using a bias finish on the armhole to save on bulk.

self-drafted retro top

The fit still needs working on. It really is a bit big under bust. But it’s certainly wearable and it feels great to wear an original ooobop!

More deets and pics over on the blog.

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1950s | Vintage Sewing

My Vintage Dreamcoat

By on February 3, 2014

1950s Butterick 547

Can’t  quite believe that it’s done! This is the resulting coat from the pattern I bid for on Ebay about 7 months ago!

1950s Butterick 547

The only alterations I made were to take 2 inches from the bust. I actually took half an inch from fronts and back panels all the way down. There was masses of ease and I probably could have lost a bit more but I love how comfy it is and I wouldn’t want to be restricted any more. I also took 4 inches from the hemline!

1950s Butterick 547

The outer pieces came together quite quickly but each of the eight lining panels is serged and hand stitched with tiny stitches inside. That took some doing, I can tell you! The fabric is a ‘quality coating’ from Fabric Dreams and the collar is a short pile faux fur. At some point I’d like to add some fur cuffs too. But that’s another day!

1950s Butterick 547

So happy to have a warm coat! And it’s great for twirling in too!

More info and pics over at ooobop!

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1950s | Blouses | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

Vintage 50s Blouse with Monogram

By on November 27, 2013

simplicity 2195

I don’t often get chance to partake in sewing challenges. My own personal sewing list is long enough and even that is jeopardised by work and small people! But this blouse had a decent deadline and an exciting date to wear the finished shirt to. A bowling date with some really cool bloggers at London’s Bloomsbury Lanes!

simplicity 2195

It’s not strictly a bowling shirt, as you can no doubt see, but with a bit of black piping on the yoke and a hand embroidered monogram, it was the best I could find. And I wasn’t unhappy with it! It works as a day shirt too and sits great with a half circle skirt and my favourite boots, for a lunch date with the Mister!

simplicity 2195 vintage blouse

I did an FBA but other than that it was a very simple make and I am so going to make a gingham one to match the pic on the cover of the pattern.

simplicity 2195

More details over at ooobop!

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