1950s

El Burro Skirt using Simplicity 3478

By on April 19, 2016

 

I have made this skirt before to go with the bra top I wrote about here (http://kittenscloset55.blogspot.com/2013/06/bra-top-and-skirt.html) and I love the ease of working with one direction fabric with it. The cut and pattern is very straight forward and the only real tricky part are all the pleats!

The Pleats:

I used the artist tape tick to complete pleats that are nice and straight and away I went. The pleats go all the way down the skirt so it is very important that you are meticulous in their construction. There were a whole-lotta notes on the tape on which way to fold the material. After a lot of pressing and basting I had the base of my skirt. Then it was just the zipper and the waistband.

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The Details:

Fabric: Joann’s novelty print cotton
Lining– none.  Just a petticoat if I want extra fullness.
Pattern: Simplicity 3748
Year: circa mid 1950s (reprint of a pattern)
Notions: zipper (I am finally using some of my vintage metal zippers!) and interfacing.
Changes: Made the waist band wider.

The finished product:

IMG_5878

I actually wore this out to a show/dancing the other night with a petticoat under it. I was pleased that the did not stick straight out when I was turned so I do not have to wear swing shorts or a slip while dancing.

This came from my pile of undocumented projects. Read more about them here: http://kittenscloset55.blogspot.com/2016/04/undocumented-projects.html

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1950s | 1960s | Blouses | Dresses | Pants / Trousers | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

2 New Vintage Pattern Makes: Simplicity 3257 and Advance 8288

By on April 4, 2016

Hi y’all!

I’ve recently sewn/photographed/blogged about two new vintage makes. Simplicity 3257 is a c. late 1950s combo skirt/trouser pattern and went together really beautifully. I highly recommend it for the skirt, though I haven’t yet tried to sew up the trousers. The skirt only used three pieces and was very true to size. I enjoyed the instructions for certain vintage craftsmanship that we don’t often use today, like the lapped zipper. I’ve been doing it the “hard” way all this time!

s3257

 

 

 

Screen Shot 2016-04-04 at 3.10.24 PM

My other creation was inspired by c. 1957 Advance 8288. It’s a “sub-teen” pattern for coordinating separates. I LOVE having options and variety, and even though it looks like a dress I can wear each piece on its own! So wonderful. I didn’t actually sew with the pattern, but rather I used the art as inspiration and Frankenstein-ed two patterns from my collection to make the blouse. The skirt is a simple dirndl style with two side pockets. Both are made with vintage metal zippers from my stash, though the rayon fabric is new (from Gertie’s collection at Joann). My friend, who sewed up this project with me, did have the pattern and noted that it was simple to make but included a lot of wearing ease.

advance-8288

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Links to the blog posts for more pics + sewing/pattern details:

Simplicity 3257

Advance 8288

 

Thanks for looking!

xx Lauren

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1950s | Blouses | Vintage Sewing

Vintage wrap-blouse

By on December 14, 2014

vintage wrap blouse

I made this blouse using vintage pattern Bestway D.3,109. It looks to be one of those mail order style patterns from the 50s. I can’t see a date so I’m going by hair and shoes on the cover image!

Bestway D3109

It’s a wrap-over top, held closed with two vintage buttons. The third button is for decorative and balancing purposes! The bottom two buttons sit just above the waistline at the base of the two waist darts. It could really do with a fourth hidden button to keep the under wrap layer in place. But for now, I’m tucking it in my pants!

lighthouse shirt buttons

The back is cut in one piece with extended sleeves and the front yokes form the sleeve fronts.

I love the shape of the neckline and how the collar just lays flat across the collar bone. I’ve not seen this style on any other garment to date.

And as most 1950s patterns go, I love how it’s nipped in at the waist for that flattering silhouette.

lighthouse shirt

When I came to choose the fabric, I knew I needed a crisp, 100% cotton fabric but I didn’t bank on finding a lighthouse print! I think it worked perfectly to achieve the whole vintage repro style!

vintage lighthouse blouse

For more vintage and modern hand-makes, please pop over to ooobop!

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1950s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

A Tuscany Summer Dress (Vogue 8789, c. 1957)

By on August 3, 2014

I was really lucky and found some amazing 1950’s border print cotton (from Stella Dallas in New York), and knew that I had to do something a bit daring. I wanted to really emphasise the stripes, and the diagonal version of Vogue 8789 seemed perfect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Initially I was really scared when I was cutting up the fabric – no going back to get more from the store… The printed cotton seems to be farmers in Tuscany (I think?), lots of sheep, fields and manor houses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pattern is very easy, although I do recommend making a muslin of the bodice first – the bias allows a lot of ease. I ended up cutting a 16 bust and waist – normally I’d taper out to an 18-20 at the waist.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I normally only use vintage/repro patterns from the late 1930s to early 1950s – so making a style from 1957 was a bit outside my normal comfort zone.

If you’d like to read more about it, I have a post on my blog here

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for letting me share!

xxx

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1950s | Dresses

A Little Bird Told Me

By on June 21, 2014

I’ve done coordinating dresses for my daughters before, but never outright matching. Browsing vintage patterns online I came across McCall’s 4346 (copyright 1957, the same year my mother was born), and knew that I had to do it for both of my girls. It took a little while to find usable copies in sizes 6 and 12 – these were supposed to be Easter dresses (don’t judge me) – but I finally pulled it off.

I was considering making both of their dresses in solid blue with a red bow just like the blondie on the pattern envelope there. But once I laid eyes on this Michael Miller print,  I couldn’t stop picturing my girlies in it. I mean, come on! It’s birds hanging dishes on a clothesline!

Other than my buttonholer’s continued refusal to cooperate, these dresses came together amazingly fast. I love how the simple lines work with an obnoxious novelty print (I’m already thinking about Christmas dresses). And here are my girlies all decked out with their new crinoline petticoats and big smiles!

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1940s | 1950s | Dresses | Mad Men Inspired | Pattern Drafting | Vintage Sewing

mono dress & faux film noir

By on May 28, 2014

self drafted dress film noir

This dress is my second attempt at pattern drafting. I re-drafted my bodice block and made further alterations but still I need to take some volume from the back.

This was apparent when I came to draft the skirt. There was precious little difference between the back hip and waist measurements!

But I went with it after checking the measurements of the bodice.

It all works reasonably well but the side seams sit a little bit too forward for my liking and I’m sure by taking out the excess at the back it will make them sit properly. And will also give the back skirt a better shape at the waist!

self drafted wiggle dress

Hoping to prove myself right with the next version.

The design is based on a general 50s shape but I really like the angular necklines of the 40s. I’m not sure of the fabric content. It could be upholstery material! About 6 meters was given to me so I figured I could use it for this test dress and have plenty left over if I messed up!

As for the crazy  photos, Mr Ooobop was determined to practice with his new camera flash and who am I to argue?! A little wave of the Photoshop wand and abracadabra, all sorts of crazy faux film noir was achieved!

self drafted wiggle dress

More over on the blog

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