1950s

Double trouble

By on October 12, 2017

Dear WeSewRetro Readers,

meeting the Tailleur Bar in my ensamble

I had been searching for a vintage Simplicity 4538 pattern for some time, never having any luck with buying it. When I discovered that Simplicity has just reissued this design as a repro 8452, it landed straight into my shopping basket. The blouse is in fact a two-seam rectangle, but what a glorious rectangle it is. It is quick to make (it took me one afternoon form cutting to giving the final touches), drapes beautifully and has two glorious 1950s characteristics: it gives a wide yet soft-shouldered look and accentuates the waist like a solid cincher.

The black skirt is the bottom part of a vintage Butterick 6976 form 1954. Side note: it was one of the very first vintage patterns I have ever bought… The skirt has 6 panels and features 4 box-pleats, which amounts to a great fullness at the hem and creates very graceful movements.

To see and read more, I invite you to my blog, rvdzik.blogspot.com 🙂 Thank you for visiting!

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1960s | Blouses | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

Easy 60’s Top (Vintage Butterick 3286)

By on August 18, 2017
Akram's Ideas: Easy 60's Top (Vintage Butterick 3286)

In my need for more separates in my wardrobe, I went through my pattern stash and found Butterick 3286.

Akram's Ideas: Easy 60's Top (Vintage Butterick 3286)
This top is a great wardrobe builder

This 1960’s pullover sleeveless top features a variety of necklines. I choose to make the shallow (almost bateau), which I find most flattering on me. is so easy to put together that after I quickly made 4 of them in one day.

The pattern itself is so easy to put together that  I quickly made 4 of them in one day.

Akram's Ideas: Easy 60's Top (Vintage Butterick 3286)
It’s also a great fabric stash buster project

The pattern itself is very similar to Simplicity 1364 (a re-issue vintage pattern), which if you recall I made 4 of last summer. The only main difference is that Simplicity 1364 is supposed to be slightly more fitted and includes a back zipper. The Butterick 3286 pattern is a looser fit with both the back and front pieces cut on the fold.

Akram's Ideas: Easy 60's Top (Vintage Butterick 3286)
This sleeveless top is great for summer weather

I really like the casual look of this top and being sleeveless it’s a great top for summer.

This top is also very versatile as it looks great with a pair of jeans or with a stylish skirt. When paired with a cardigan or blazer the top works well for wearing to the office.

Akram's Ideas: Easy 60's Top (Vintage Butterick 3286)
While casual, this top can be easily dressed up

I’m really happy with how this pattern came out and I glad to know that this is my second pattern this year that counts towards my #VintagePledge.

For full details about making this dress  be sure to see my full blog post at http://akramsideas.com/vintage-butterick-3286-is-the-perfect-summer-top

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1950s

Vintage Vichy Blouse Butterick 6217

By on February 15, 2017

Hi y´all,

dear me, it´s been a long time since my last post…but that´s about to change.

My vintage and vintage-inspired wardrobe is going to take shape over the course of this year, yeah.

A first is my new blouse, Butterick 6217, designed by Gretchen Hirsch.

I love the cute bow over the chest, especially as I am an A-cup gal, so this pattern was in my stash quite soon after it came out. It took me a while to really get to sew it up, but the result is really nice.

The sizing of the pattern proved to be a problem though. I cut exactly after the measurements stated on the envelop, but the result was a bodice much too big for my frame. Funny as it may seem, the armholes were too narrow, even on the bigger bodice!

So I cut it out again two sizes smaller, lowered the armhole about an inch and lengthened the bodice about two inches.


Now I´m quite happy with the result and there´s the idea of a second version in white already in my head…

Feel free to check my blog for more information.
Cheers and hopefully sooner than the last time.

Milan

Blusen: eine neue Liebe

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1930s | Blouses | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

1930s Bishop Sleeve Blouse & Pocket Detail Skirt

By on December 8, 2016

1930s blouse and skirt

Do you ever have an idea in your mind that never really pans out when it comes to your sewing? Yep, that’s exactly what happened here. Both the blouse and skirt were going to be very different to how they actually turned out, mainly due to not having quite enough fabric for either of them!

The white silk with navy polka dots is actually a vintage fabric I picked up at a flea market. It was very narrow and as a result, the originally planned pattern of McCalls – 7053, from their Archive Collection, just didn’t fit. So after abandoning this idea, I decided to use the top half of this beautiful original 1930s dress pattern instead. It’s been sat in my collection for a while totally unused, but boy am I glad I used it this time.

Vintage 1930s Buttons

It worked out beautifully in this fabric, despite having to redo the front yoke many, many times. The issue was that it needed to be lined to give it some stability and the join at the bottom, where the button placket areas overlap, was incredibly fiddly. After many attempts, both on the machine and by hand, I finally got it to sit right. However, after all that stress I gave up on trying to do buttonholes, so just sewed the buttons in place.

1930s sleeve detail

Instead of finishing the sleeves with a mid-forearm cuff as shown in the pattern, I decided to add a long cuff right down to the wrist. I absolutely love this style of bishop sleeve, it’s so classically 1930s, and of course keeps your forearms warm! I finished it off with four buttons and rouleau loops to allow enough room to get my hand in and out.

The fabric itself, unfortunately, has weakened during the pre-wash and making up stages. As a result, I’ve decided to only wear it on special occasions and to try and find another white and navy polka dot fabric for a more wearable version. I think it would work well in a crepe or a soft cotton lawn.

1930s blouse yoke detail

The skirt was drafted from another original 1930s pattern, which I’ve used multiple times as it’s such a simple design so can be changed to just about any style. The fabric is a deep mustard linen, which I bought from My Fabrics and a dream to work with. It’s quite a heavy weight linen so can be used for both summer and winter.

The design itself was taken from an original 1930s skirt I own but haven’t yet worn. I love the little pockets on it, so decided to replicate them here with a slightly different style button tab. They worked out quite well I think and give such a lovely interest to the front of the skirt, along with the deep single kick pleat on the centre front.

If you want to read more about it, and see the gorgeous original 1930s navy suede shoes I wore with it, just pop on over to my blog.

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1940s | 1960s | Blouses | Jackets | Skirts

Separates turned Suit

By on September 22, 2016
Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green

Back in spring I had planned to participate in the Vintage Suit-Sew-Along. While I never did get around to making a vintage suit per-say; I did manage to make this great vintage inspired suit.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
This suit is amazing!

My lovely green suit is made up completely of separates. I actually started this project with the blouse using Simplicity 1364.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
Yes, I know another Simplicity 1364 top

I wanted to make a skirt to go with the blouse and the Delphine skirt from the book “Love at First Stitch” By Tilly Walnes. This is my go to skirt pattern.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
The Delphine skirt is so easy to make

Once I had the blouse and skirt I thought this outfit was the start of the prefect vintage style suit. All it needed was a jacket to top it off.

Since I had limited fabric I deiced to make the bolero using Butterick 6354 pattern.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
This bolero really finished the outfit

This was the perfect paring of separates into the most amazing suit. I love this suit from the color the print. It may just be my favorite outfit I’ve made.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
I love everything about this suit

 

To read more about my process for making my lovely green suit check out my blog Akram’s Ideas (http://akramsideas.com/vintage-inspired-suit-green)

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1970s | Blouses

Dig My Wide Collar – 1973 Simplicity 6110 Blouse

By on September 5, 2016
Simplicity 6110, copyright 1973

Simplicity 6110, Misses’ Blouse, Skirt and Pants

Seventies fashion always makes me smile.  I absolutely love the exuberance of this era’s designs:  cheerful, big buttons, the oh-so wide pointy collar that spreads from sleeve cap to shining sleeve cap, it all makes me grin.

S6110 frontAccording to the envelope, “This design has the new narrow shoulder look.  The shoulder length of the pattern is shorter and the head of the sleeve is higher.”

I sewed this up using Michael Miller’s “Little Lifesavers” quilting cotton.   This type of fabric is perfect for the way I wash and wear clothes.  That is to say, hot water, high heat in the dryer, and I’ll likely spill something down the front every other wearing.

S6110 back full lengthFitting was simple, as there is no bust dart.  Instead, the front is gathered into yokes.  By comparing the measurement of the pattern to a blouse that fits, I determined I only need to make a rounded upper back and swayback adjustment.

I also shortened the sleeves about an inch and a quarter.  Otherwise, they end at my elbow crease, making my waist look wide.  Between the wide collar and the short, cuffed sleeves, it appears I have a waist (I’m actually pretty square).

Can you dig my exuberant collar?
Can you dig my exuberant collar?

I wanted to emphasize the very pointed collar and cuffs.  I tried Pellon 950S, ShirTailor, which gave a crisp feel to both.

Sewing the blouse was incredibly straight forward.  The instructions are clearly written, and the diagrams quite helpful.

Cuff Detail
Cuff Detail

The oversize buttons that I love didn’t look quite right down the front of the blouse.  I happened to have two sets of the same orange buttons in different diameters.  What can I say?  I like orange buttons, so I have a lot of them.  The three-quarter inch diameter buttons matched the scale of the little lifesavers, and I like the effect much better.

But the cuffs, oh, man, the cuffs were made for the orange 1 1/8″ buttons.  The sheer exuberance of oversize orange buttons makes me so happy!

 

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1940s

Advance 5232 Blouse in Liberty Silk

By on April 10, 2016

A few days ago, someone on the WeSewRetro fb page asked if anyone ever used liberty silk, which prompted me to revisit and finish this blouse. I started last Autumn.  I had picked up some Liberty Silk a few months previous, and as it was relatively expensive and I was only buying it on a whim I bought .75m, which was really limiting my making options.

Advance5232 OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I got this pattern on Vintage Pattern Bazaar and thought it perfect for the Liberty, which it really was.  I had to grade up one size, as well as taking a small bit of the shoulders as I was not going to put shoulder pads in.  I cut it out and it all just about fitted (the selvedge were incorporated into the back seam.  I also decided to sew it on an old Brother/Jones machine as it had a silk setting and I was curious to know what that was.  I soon found out it means sewing in tiny tiny stitches which ended up being a bit of a pain, and if I was to do it again, I would just sew on my usual singer at usual settings.  The main reason it was a pain, is that I also did the gathering (what was I thinking) and the top-stitching in this stitch.  The top stitching looked awful.  it made the shirt look ‘country and western’ style and as I was in no mood to take out tiny stitches, I popped it into my wardrobe so not to look at it for a while (head in sand etc).

Anyway, when the post came up on facebook, it was a timely reminder to finish the blouse.  I undid the top stitch and sewed the yoke underneath, and it looked way better.  I hand hemmed, and put a cream button and loop (I couldn’t remember where the fabric scraps were to cover the button and make a new loop – so now – blouse finished.  Liberty silk is lovely to work on.  the weave is very dense and fine (and very strong!).

WIN_20160410_18_18_37_ProWIN_20160410_18_18_00_Pro

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