1940s | Blouses | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

1940’s blouse and skirt in silk

By on September 1, 2014

Despite the dearth of posts I have not abandoned my 40’s wardrobe bulding project. In fact, I have several things finished, I just haven’t got around taking any pictures of it. Bad me. Anyway, in early August we went for a picknic at Skokloster Castle,  an absolutely wonderful 17th century caste a little bit north of Stockholm, and a few photos were taken: a shirt and skirt in brown silk noil for the spring/summer year 1 wardrobe. There is supposed to be a jacket in the same material but that isn’t finished yet and it would have been too hot to wear it even if it was.

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It is very hard to take pictures in our family without at least one animal. Here is Lipton, our Shetland Sheepdog.

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With the castle in the background.

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The straw hat is from the late 40’s/early 50’s and I found it at Pretty Bones Jefferson.

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It is a bit of a frankenpatten. The top is taken from this Vintage Vogue  pattern and I plan to make the jacket to match, the skirt is the bottom  part from a vintage 40’s dress pattern. I’m quite pleased with it and silk noil is lovely to work with and drape well. It is also cool and nice to wear in summer.

 

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1940s | 1950s | Dresses | Mad Men Inspired | Pattern Drafting | Vintage Sewing

mono dress & faux film noir

By on May 28, 2014
self drafted dress film noir

self drafted dress film noir

This dress is my second attempt at pattern drafting. I re-drafted my bodice block and made further alterations but still I need to take some volume from the back.

This was apparent when I came to draft the skirt. There was precious little difference between the back hip and waist measurements!

But I went with it after checking the measurements of the bodice.

It all works reasonably well but the side seams sit a little bit too forward for my liking and I’m sure by taking out the excess at the back it will make them sit properly. And will also give the back skirt a better shape at the waist!

self drafted wiggle dress

Hoping to prove myself right with the next version.

The design is based on a general 50s shape but I really like the angular necklines of the 40s. I’m not sure of the fabric content. It could be upholstery material! About 6 meters was given to me so I figured I could use it for this test dress and have plenty left over if I messed up!

As for the crazy  photos, Mr Ooobop was determined to practice with his new camera flash and who am I to argue?! A little wave of the Photoshop wand and abracadabra, all sorts of crazy faux film noir was achieved!

self drafted wiggle dress

More over on the blog

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1940s | Dresses

1940s Spotty Marian Martin Dress

By on May 16, 2014

Handmade Vintage Dress
This dress was the first item of clothing I made, with the exception of the few things I made during Textiles class at school (I remember an awful fleece hat in particular…). I didn’t make things easy for myself by starting with an original 1940s Marian Martin sewing pattern (9049)!
Sewing Pattern Marian Martin 1940s (9049)
I made this dress while I was still at University studying for my undergraduate degree (BA English as it happens) approximately eight years ago, but pretty much never wore it as the original length (ankle length) didn’t really suit me. When I rediscovered the dress in the attic last year I lopped a big chunk off the skirt to get to the current length. Much more my style:)
Handmade Dress from Marian Martin 1940s Sewing Pattern (9049)
This week (spurred on by me made May) I finally got around to tidying up the hem and redoing the buttonholes (which were frankly awful, tut tut Charlotte of 8 years ago). Now I can finally get some wear out of my new-old dress!
Handmade Dress from Marian Martin 1940s Sewing Pattern (9049)
I love the pleated front and the awesome roomy pockets. The dress is worn below with my Brigitte Scarf from Tilly Walnes’ Love at First Stitch.
I’d love to see you over on my blog English Girl at Home.
Handmade Vintage Dress

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1940s | Dresses | Introduction | Mail Order Patterns

Marian Martin 9154, WIP

By on April 19, 2014
Back of the dress, showing the V neck
pattern envelope picture
Mailing envelope says "Marian Martin"

Hi, everybody! I really enjoy reading this blog and figured I’d better start contributing.

So, here ya go!

I love this style of dress and wanted to make it up even though it is three sizes too small for me based on bust-as-high-bust measurement.
I used the Threads article on slash and spread pattern grading.
My first muslin (bodice only) was plagued with large ripples on the back.

front of dress
So the second muslin – the full version in yellow flowers shown here – I assembled out of order from the pattern instructions, leaving the shoulders last.
Yes, it was a pain, yes it was worth it.
I adjusted the dress to accommodate my lopsided shoulders, then stitched it together.

I took horrifying shortcuts on this, doing nearly everything on the machine.
The material, a thin, unlabeled synthetic from Walmart was not too bad to work with, but the double fold bias tape would have been better single fold.

Back of the dress, showing the V neck
No wonky ripples!

Because my waist is one size larger than my bust (I’m 1/3 of the way done with my weight loss), the dress does not overlap as much as it ought, so there’s a pin at the V keeping my bra band out of sight. I’ve also pinned the back as I don’t have two buttons on hand at the moment.
So I can’t say it is done, but I can say it has a lot of promise.

I like the set in belt, which defines my waist a bit. I like the scallop details – even the pockets, which I might modify to protrude a little less next time. I even like the yellow flowered print, something I was very unsure about to begin with.

standing with hands in pocketsThe pockets are very high up on the skirt. Awkward to get my hands in there. Are they supposed to be that high?
When I graded the skirt, I added length through the middle of the pocket as well as the skirt. I may move that grading line to above the pocket altogether for my next try at this pattern.

A lot more of my ramblings about this project, and pics of the wonky ripples, are available in a post on my blog, Waltzing Sieves. You can also read there about my plans for a vintage-flavored wardrobe as a treat for when I’m skinny again.

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1940s | Vintage Sewing

1940s inspired dress

By on April 8, 2014
1940s inspired vintage dress

I sewed this dress as a muslin for the Hollywood Sewalong challenge. This seasons movie theme is The Notebook.

Hollywood Sewalong: The Notebook | SewsNBows
Butterick 5846

I love the pleats and shirtdress style! It’s actually my first successful women’s clothing garment in a decade. I mostly sew for kids. So I’m proud of it even though there’s plenty of room for improvement.

1940s inspired vintage dress with pleated bodice

I have a few things I need to work on for my final dress, like making my slip stitched collar look nice. The bodice back is very roomy, and it bunches out. I need to figure out a way to eliminate some of the bulk. I know it’s a popular style right now, but it’s not for me! (Photos on the blog, linked below.)

Butterick 5846 by SewsNBows

I’d love any tips you might have for me! Also, I thought the We Sew Retro readers may like to stop by and see all the other 1940’s inspiration! Our final reveal is in May. Read about it here: SewsNBows Hollywood Sewalong : Part II.

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1940s | Accessories | Hats

An early 40’s beret

By on March 1, 2014

I made this beret as a part of The Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 and this is the first challenge I have completed. It is a  wool beret in pink/rust tartan and the pattern is The Three Hour Beret, a reproduction pattern from New Vintage Lady, dating from the early 1940’s.  I have wanted to do this beret for some time and as I’m also making a reversible coat with the pink/rust tartan, I thought a matching  beret would look nice with it. The pattern was a little quirky and it was great  fun to sew it. Unfortunately when padded and worn straight it looked absolutely  awful on me. So I removed the padding and tilted it instead and it looked much  better, if not exactly as intended. For another face shape I am sure it will
look smashing as it was intended.

 

Here are a few versions made by New Vintage Lady.

 

 

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1940s | Mildly Insane Photo

V for Victory!

By on September 22, 2013

I know it’s not technically sewing, but I thought some of you might like to see my finished 1940’s victory jumper…

The pattern is Patons 876, and was really enjoyable to knit!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

‘Victory’ clothing was worn either before the War (WWII) ended to show support for the troops – or after, to celebrate the ‘Victory’ of War ending.

The skirt is made from Simplicity 3688 (1940s re-issue) using navy gaberdine – it’s actually my favourite suspender skirt with the suspenders removed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was abit touch and go with working out how much yarn I needed to make this – in the end it only took four balls of light grey, just over one ball of charcoal and half a ball of red.  Even though I love the jumper to death it’s not something I would make again – it’s very distinctive!

The full story and technical info is on my blog if anyone’s curious.

x

Bex

 

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