1940s | 1950s | 1970s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

A pattern mash up, 50 plus 70s equals 40s

By on November 20, 2016

advance-6190-complete-bodice-necklinedetail

Perhaps the pièce de résistance that a woman might have in the 50s, that rather special pattern in the stash of work and household clothes. Advance 6190 was a delight to work with! And I am so pleased with the results.

advance-6190-pattern

I was very short on fabric for this project, but the fabric, a wool blend crepe, given to me by a friend, was perfect, so perfect, I had to use it, so I teamed the 50s bodice up with a simple skirt from a 70s pattern, and voila!

advance-6190-tall

I now have a very 40s looking dress, win!

advance-6190-complete-talljpg

I have more photos and making details over on my blog.

I hope your sewing projects are going well as we approach the end of the year.

Happy sewing, Angela x

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1970s | Blouses

Dig My Wide Collar – 1973 Simplicity 6110 Blouse

By on September 5, 2016
Simplicity 6110, copyright 1973

Simplicity 6110, Misses’ Blouse, Skirt and Pants

Seventies fashion always makes me smile.  I absolutely love the exuberance of this era’s designs:  cheerful, big buttons, the oh-so wide pointy collar that spreads from sleeve cap to shining sleeve cap, it all makes me grin.

S6110 frontAccording to the envelope, “This design has the new narrow shoulder look.  The shoulder length of the pattern is shorter and the head of the sleeve is higher.”

I sewed this up using Michael Miller’s “Little Lifesavers” quilting cotton.   This type of fabric is perfect for the way I wash and wear clothes.  That is to say, hot water, high heat in the dryer, and I’ll likely spill something down the front every other wearing.

S6110 back full lengthFitting was simple, as there is no bust dart.  Instead, the front is gathered into yokes.  By comparing the measurement of the pattern to a blouse that fits, I determined I only need to make a rounded upper back and swayback adjustment.

I also shortened the sleeves about an inch and a quarter.  Otherwise, they end at my elbow crease, making my waist look wide.  Between the wide collar and the short, cuffed sleeves, it appears I have a waist (I’m actually pretty square).

Can you dig my exuberant collar?
Can you dig my exuberant collar?

I wanted to emphasize the very pointed collar and cuffs.  I tried Pellon 950S, ShirTailor, which gave a crisp feel to both.

Sewing the blouse was incredibly straight forward.  The instructions are clearly written, and the diagrams quite helpful.

Cuff Detail
Cuff Detail

The oversize buttons that I love didn’t look quite right down the front of the blouse.  I happened to have two sets of the same orange buttons in different diameters.  What can I say?  I like orange buttons, so I have a lot of them.  The three-quarter inch diameter buttons matched the scale of the little lifesavers, and I like the effect much better.

But the cuffs, oh, man, the cuffs were made for the orange 1 1/8″ buttons.  The sheer exuberance of oversize orange buttons makes me so happy!

 

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1970s

Simplicity 6161: A Swinging Seventies Polka Dot Blouse

By on September 7, 2015
S6161 envelope
Simplicity 6161 circa 1970

I love the 1970s.  I was a teenager then, and a pretty happy one, so these styles make me grin.  This pattern reminds me of junior high.

I bought this polka dot fabric to match my eyes and hair, besides, polka dots are cheerful, just right for a wide-collared shirt with turn-back cuffs.

Yup, should’ve made a swayback correction.

This pattern is a size 16; I normally start with 14.  I compared the pattern with a RTW shirt that fits and is comfy.  This size 16 pattern wouldn’t need added width in the torso, it was right on!

That doesn’t mean zero changes.  I shortened 1″ at the waist, did a 3/8″ high back adjustment.  Why didn’t I do my usual swayback correction?  Uh, dunno.  Should have.

Didn’t think  about the shoulder seams, which are about one inch off my shoulder.  The stand-up gathered sleeves balance everything out.

I'm in my happy shirt.
I’m in my happy shirt.

The buttonholes are too far from the edge.  I’m learning to pay attention to that dimension.  The pattern calls for 1″ buttons and the buttonhole markings on the blouse front are 1″ from the fold.  Is that a rule?  Place your buttonholes the same distance from the edge as the diameter of your buttons?  I’ll make a note to practice it on my next projects.  But today I used three 5/8″ buttons from my stash, and they would look better closer to the blouse edge.

Doesn’t any of it matter, because I LOVE LOVE LOVE this shirt!  It makes me happy.

Pattern: Simplicity 6161 circa 1973, eBay
Cloth:  Michael Miller Ta Dot, from M&L Fabrics
Buttons: Stash

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1950s | 1960s | 1970s | Accessories | Hats | Vintage Sewing

Faux Zhivago: self-drafted faux fur hat

By on December 29, 2014

handmade faux fur hat

December is definitely a month for quick satisfying projects that can slot into the madness of work, shopping, entertaining and visiting! And a faux fur hat is most welcome when the temperatures take a dive into freezing.

handmade vintage style fur hat

December is also a great month for finding the best range of faux fur. This fur is so soft and silky and feels so real I had to double check the backing to make sure it wasn’t! It’s a bit pricey but you really don’t need much more a hat of this kind.

I’ve got fond memories of snuggling up on the sofa with my mum, lots of years ago, watching Doctor Zhivago on the telly. So this hat is cosy in more ways than one. It has a wonderful vintage vibe but I can’t attribute it to any one era. 50’s? 60’s? 70’s? or 2015’s? Maybe it’s just timeless!

I’m planning on posting a tute and a pattern real soon so keep an eye on my blog for more details.

In the meantime, I’d like to wish you all a very happy and healthy new year! x

Handmade faux fur hat Doctor Zhivago style

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1970s | Rompers / Playsuits | Vintage Sewing

Late 1970s Krizia playsuit

By on September 30, 2014

Some of you may have seen my post on McCall’s Krizia patterns, released in the late 1970s to early 1980s. I sewed up the playsuit from one of my favourites, McCall’s 6624, a playsuit and wrap skirt pattern from McCall’s “Carefree” line.

McCall's 6624 by Krizia (1979)
McCall’s 6624 by Krizia (1979)

It’s a short and strappy playsuit, with the bodice and shorts pleated into a midriff band, a combination zipper fly/button front, and shaped side vents on the shorts.

I had a sparkly stretch knit found at Fabricland that seemed suitably disco. The pattern isn’t specifically for stretch knits, but one of the recommended fabrics is synthetic jersey.

My wife photographed me by an awesome local graffiti mural—a collaboration between two Toronto artists:

More photos and construction notes on my blog

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