1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

1948 Vintage Vogue 9280

By on December 16, 2017
Pattern envelope, Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

Hello, everyone!

A couple weeks ago I stitched up Vintage Vogue 9280, which was a recent reproduction pattern that was released this past year.

 

Completed Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

I’m actually very impressed with how it came out!

No doubt about it, this piece is a jour-neeeeyyyy in the amount of hand sewing and moments when you think the project is nearly done… until it isn’t!

But then again, if you’re into vintage sewing, chances are the hand sewing is no biggie!

 

How to fit Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

The muslin process of this piece was actually pretty straight forward.

Even with princess seams, inverted darts, and multiple smaller shaping darts, getting the sorted muslin wasn’t too bad. I focused specifically on shortening the bodice and getting the princess seam taken care of, which were the primary fitting points.

 

Interior detail from Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

This project was a nice excuse to work on bound buttonholes.

Even though on the exterior there are only four visible bound buttonholes, there are actually a total of eight! The removable collar is stitched up in the same way as the bodice collar, with bound buttonholes matching up on the interior with button links.

 

Completed Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

 

Do I love the dress? Yes! But there are some caveats!

I go into them more in depth over on my website, but essentially it comes down to that open collar design feature.

 

Click here to see more photos + video of the sewing process or-

click here to see info + video of the fitting process.

 

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1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

1940s Organic Cotton Gingham Dress

By on October 12, 2017

5955 McCall sewing pattern, 1946

After watching the brilliant documentary The True Cost, about the human and environmental impact of fast fashion, I decided to try and make a completely ethically-produced dress. I chose to make it using an original sewing pattern from 1946 that I had won in a competition on the Vintage Sewing Pattern Nerds Facebook group. It’s a little later than my usual style dress (1930s to early 40s) but, as it looked like it could easily be from the late 1930s, I decided to go for it.

1940s organic gingham dress

The fabric I used was 100% organic cotton gingham from the Organic Textile Company. They produce this beautiful soft cotton in two different sizes and both in three different colours, red, blue and black. As I loved both sizes so much I chose to use both in red and use the smaller one on the bias. Of course, each of the pieces I cut in this way had to be stabilised with straight cut facings.

1940s organic gingham cotton dress

All of the trimmings I used were either vintage pieces or items I already owned, even the ivory cotton thread I used to sew the dress up. This all adds up to an almost totally ethically made garment. However, there is one thing I did have to buy new, and it wasn’t organic or ethically-produced, so I can’t quite say this dress is 100% ethical.

Head on over to my blog to find out what this item was and, if you want to know more about why it isn’t ethical, have a read of the comments at the end of the post.

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1940s | 1950s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

Blackmore 8194 vintage dress

By on September 3, 2016

Blackmore 8194 vintage dress

I’ve been wanting to tackle this dress for a long time. Don’t know what I was afraid of! It came together quite simply. But it helps that I’ve sewn vintage dresses before. The instructions on the back of the packet are minimal to say the least and include things like:

“Make darts in the back bodice where shown by dotted lines in diagram”. Quite literally the diagram which is the tiny pattern layout illustration on the back of the packet. So it’s anyone’s guess, really!

“Gather upper edge of side fronts to fit hip yoke of front as in sketch and stitch together matching VV to VV.” Again, helped by the fact that I’ve managed inset seams before when quilting so I know a thing or two about clipping and pivoting. It could have caused a tantrum or two otherwise!

Blackmore 8194 vintage sewing patternI made it in a hurry, like the day before the wedding so there’s room for improvement. I graded it up a size but could do with adding an inch of ease at least at the waist I was hesitant to do this for fear of losing the lovely silhouette but I think I can still retain the line by cutting and slashing from under arm to waist.

blackmore 8194 green vintage dress

As for the era… Blackmore Patterns finished trading in the 1940s by all accounts so I would naturally date the pattern from late 40s but Wikia Patterns says 1950s. So it’s anyone’s guess really!

My favourite details are the keyhole neckline and the skirt gathers on the hip yoke.

blackmore 8194 vintage dress

I’m definitely going to have to make this again. Has anyone else tried this pattern before?

More info on the making of this dress and others over at ooobop.

 

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1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

An Emergency Bolero (Pauline Pattern 2217, c. 1940s)

By on August 25, 2014

I’m sure we’ve all been there – no jackets/boleros/cardigans in your wardrobe matches your chosen outfit?!?  I had that dilemma the day before the Sydney Fifties Fair, nothing matched my chosen dress (a 1940’s rayon day-dress by Mynette).

Luckily, I had Pauline 2217 sitting on my sewing desk and the bolero seemed to be the answer to my emergency!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I love all the details on this bolero – the winged collar, the strong shoulders, the faux pockets. The pattern is from the later part of WW2, with the focus on the military-inspired shoulders. It’s economy standard, i.e. no seam allowance, no facing pieces provided, instructions printed on the back of the packet.

IMG_2744

Ouch, this pattern was hard to put together.  The instructions consist of two sentences, basically: sew the pocket flaps on, sew the side seams together, attach the collar, set in the sleeves, face the edges. Not a pattern for the faint-hearted!

And it complemented perfectly! The length hit me where it should (just above my waist) and the fit was so good that I didn’t need to make any adjustments. The judges must have liked it too, as my partner and I also won the ‘Best Dressed Couple’ competition.

If you’d like to read more, or see photos from the Fifties Fair, just head on over to my blog

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1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

Update for Du Barry 5932

By on April 8, 2014

Many thanks to everyone who gave advice for finishing this dress.

I used this cotton Donna Wilder Fabric

 

I took off all the ruffles, took it in at the waist, shortened the sleeves, and hemmed it to hit right at the knee.  I would have liked a navy belt to go with it, but I don’t have a navy belt buckle yet, so I added my vintage red flower buckle belt I created for another dress last year.  I wore it out last weekend when a friend and I went to Colonial Williamsburg (which explains the large tag and the large straw hat on my head – my friend and I do Revolutionary re-enactments, so the hat will become one of my props!).   And I even got a few compliments on the dress from other tourists there!  This one is sure to be worn many times.

 

 

Can't resist acting like a model

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1940s | Vintage Sewing

1940s Red and White Swing Dress

By on February 19, 2014

Hi All!

I’ve finished another sewing project! This one is a mid 1940s day dress. I knew the pattern would be a touch large for me, but I went ahead and made it up anyway without making any alterations. And guess what? Yup, it was a little too big! Well, actually it’s quiet wearable but a bit too roomy in the bust area for me. And that’s perfectly OK because I’m hoping this dress will work for someone else.

The dress is made from a red and white striped cotton that is light and slightly springy. It’s machine sewn but the neck, sleeves, and hem I finished all by hand. The fabric really drapes and moves beautifully so I think this would be perfect for swing dancing! I believe it’s a cotton/rayon or cotton/nylon blend. It was a left over piece from my fabric stash so I’m not really sure.

The neckline has a great key-hole detail and closes with a hidden hook and eye. There is also a zipper on the left side. I did not add the bow at the neck as shown in the pattern but that can be added in a jiffy! I added a black bow belt for contrast in the pictures, which sadly are a little washed out. I soooo need a new camera! The fabric is really a nice bright red in person. This dress is listed on Etsy if anyone is interested. I also have a few more pictures on my blog.

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1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

1940’s Dress

By on June 24, 2013

So I made my second 40’s dress. I am beginning to really understand the old patterns and sometimes think they are actually easier then the modern ones and am getting better each time. I really love this one with all of the buttons and neck line. Although the pictures do not show this so well, it really does nip in at the waist like the pattern picture, very feminine.  With researching rations and coupons of the wartime, buttons were used rather more then metal zippers. Fits really comfortably and I love the material. Perfect for this hot weather.

Another one showing the dress with my new 40’s replica shoes, love them and sooo comfortable. I am so not good at having my picture taken, usual reason you see my items on a mannequin.

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