1910s

Shawls

by Harriet Bazley on November 2, 2013 · 4 comments

in 1910s,1940s,Accessories

It’s getting cold – time to bring the retro-knitted shawls out!

Patons Woolcraft 9th editionI seem to have completed quite a few this year. Here’s an electric blue number knitted in decided non-period wool from my 1915 copy of Patons’ famous Woolcraft booklet, in amongst all the other highly exotic undergarments of the era:

I used a cone of machine-knit acrylic in place of the super-fine Shetland wool recommended in the pattern. The pattern is actually extremely simple, consisting of sets of intersecting ‘fans’ repeated again and again (and again and again and again…): the only difference between rows is that there are three different corner groups, which have to be repeated in a set order, and if you get it wrong you don’t notice until you try to work the next row into it and find that it doesn’t fit. It’s very dispiriting to discover this when each row takes forty-five minutes to complete!
corner of shawl

This is a square shawl measuring thirty-six inches along each side (plus star-border). It was so large that I had to pin it out and steam it on my bed: I don’t have a ‘blocking board’ big enough. But the whole thing weighs only 160 grams (five and a half ounces).
Holding up shawl

It took me a while to work out how to wear a square shawl by looking at the photo in the booklet, but in fact if you fold it right you get a genuine ‘shawl collar’ forming all by itself…

Wearing shawl under cherry tree

click for larger images


Standing under the rose arch

click for larger images

My second shawl was also worked in crochet, but was a far faster project! So fast in fact that I did two, with slightly different colour schemes to use up the spare wool: spot the difference.

green shawl in garden

click for larger images


red shawl indoors

click for larger images

This was a 1940s pattern for a round shawl entitled “Cozy comfort on cool nights”, and it is designed to sit with a yoke section on the shoulders and a looser section in ‘Solomon’s knot’ stitch. It only takes a few days to make out of double-knitting wool, and is a good way to use up scraps.

front view, sky-gazing in garden

click for larger images

My third shawl is a triangle shawl of unknown date, since the website I got the pattern from gives only a diagram from an old magazine:
http://www.smart-knit-crocheting.com/crochet-shawl.html

I’ve called it an ‘Art Deco’ shawl, but in fact I’ve been told it may well be older.
Shawl displayed in garden

I deliberately chose a much larger hook size than would normally be used for working double-knitting wool (itself thicker wool than would have been intended for a pattern of this type) so that, instead of getting multiple squares to be assembled together with their edges matching in a further lace pattern, I got a single large square that would more or less fit across my back.

back view of shawl being worn

click for larger images

This was just as well, since the instructions don’t give any directions as to how you are supposed to make the partial squares to fit along the edges, and I had to guess… and clearly got it wrong, as they ended up distinctly shorter than the full-size motif! Luckily with only two dangling down the front, it doesn’t show.

front/side view of shawl being worn

click for larger images

By using the very large hook size to produce this extra ‘lacy’ effect, I managed to get an entire shawl out of one spare ball of double-knitting wool: very economical.

{ 4 comments }

I just adore Downton Abbey and I’m so happy that I’ve gotten to sew from some reprinted Edwardian patterns this year! :D

This dress is 1914-1915 which would be at the end of season 1 of Downton Abbey. I was able to find a reprint of this dress pattern from Past Patterns. This one is #8480.

Originally, I was going to go the whole nine yards with the bows and neck ruffle and sash but once I got sewing, I felt like it would be way too much!

For the main fabric, I choose an embroidered cotton with tiny green polka dots! From far away, it reads as white but up close you can see all the green. A more period option for the ruffles would have been green, but I like the contrast of the yellow better.

This dress was a lot of work to make since I was working with the original instructions which expect you to know a lot about how these types of dresses are supposed to go together! I also bit the bullet and worked with the original 3/8 inch seam allowance instead of adding extra.

More photos and construction details over on my blog.

{ 7 comments }


I am sewing this 1910′s blouse at the moment as a mock-up for the real deal. I just can’t figure out the instructions for the cuffs..if you click on the pictures you should be able to zoom in and read it. Could anybody help me out? I have never come across cuffs like this before!

thanks so much!

allison

www.littlethistles.blogspot.com

{ 10 comments }

   

SIMPLICITY 8399 VIEW A

  • Pattern: Simplicity 8399 Misses’ Titanic inspired costume. View A.
  • Pattern sizing: N 10,12,14. I cut a size 12.
  • Fabric: 100% white cotton for bodice lining. 100% dyed satin silk for bodice lining and underskirt. Black chiffon for second overskirt. Sari fabric for bodice and overskirt.

I made this Titanic style gown for Costume Con 30. I couldn’t afford the beautiful heavy beaded net indian fabrics @$100+/yd, so I opted for a full length sparkly sari on sale for $25.

The biggest dilemma with this project was how to cut the sari. The print on the sari was one way and printed on an angle. Great if you are draping it on your body, bad if you are cutting it to make a gown as there is no real mirror image of the pattern. I finally figured it out after losing most of the sari to bad cutting decisions.

The pattern itself is a good one, and I would use it again if I needed another Titanic style gown.

Find out more details of my experience with this pattern on my blog.

 

 

{ 3 comments }