Pink Gingham Dress

IMG_3609dblIMG_3658
I used a pattern for a cute party blouse that I’d found in a German sewing magazine –Der Neue Schnitt from December 1957 – you can see it pictured below. I chopped the blouse at the waist and then added a skirt –at first I thought I’d give a try to one suggested in the magazine but I was afraid it would be too obviously vintage. I opted instead for a simple one that’s sewn together out of seven panels: three broader and four narrower ones. They added up to a nice half circle skirt (in all honesty, I could’ve just cut a plain half circle skirt from my fabric but… where’s the fun in that?).

 

dok029
The pattern for the bodice was, as usual, a bit large in the bust area and, which is in turn unusual, it was a bit large at the shoulders. This proved to make some wrinkling I didn’t suspect as it didn’t show when I was making a muslim. I’m in the process of making another dress out of this pattern and I decided to size it down and lower the shoulder seams this time.

 

IMG_4313dbl
I finished the guts of the dress with my own bias binding, by hand in part (the neckline) and I’m really happy with how that looks. So neat! I still need to replace the zipper with a white one. I wanted to finish and wear the dress as soon as possible –obviously! –only to realise I’d run out of white zippers. Please tell me this happens to everyone else?

 

You can see more photos on my blog!

 

A ‘Round the House Wrap Dress

Simplicity 2275, dated 1948 | Lavender & Twill
Stitching challenge 2015 for a vintage wardrobe | Lavender & Twill
Vintage - around the house - mama style | Lavender & Twill
Hunter green vintage 1940s reproduction heels | Lavender & Twill
Easy 1940s style | Lavender & Twill
Pin curls, vintage, and 1940s frocks | Lavender & Twill
*whew*

Am I ever so glad that this dress is done! I have never had so much trouble putting together a sewing project before ~ not because it didn’t come together easily enough, that wasn’t the problem ~ it was because I just couldn’t get the dang thing to sit right! (┛◉Д◉)┛*rage*

I suppose this is where experienced seamstresses look pointedly at their muslins and toiles, then at me, then back at the neat little muslin sitting on the dress form…..

Yah.  Ain’t nobody got time for that! Least ways, I don’t.

I found out that the bodice of my 90% completed dress was not fitting correctly because of my nursing bust size, even though I’d measured the pattern and thought that it would fit. The design of the back of the neck was not working for me either. It wouldn’t sit right no matter how I adjusted it ~ up or down!

Getting the dress to fit required a lot of what my coding Mister calls “hacking”. In my sewing world however, hacking involves taking a sharp pair of scissors to already sewn seams and hacking the bajeebies out of the fabric along strategically drawn chalk lines.

I cut roughly two inches out from the back of the neck, and lopped off three to seven inches from the sleeves, then hemmed the skirt up by five inches. It was a risk that the whole thing would fall apart if I snipped too much, or in the wrong place, but it paid off as the dress sits much better around the neckline now.
It isn’t all weird and bunchy like it was before. I don’t quite know what was happening, but the back of the dress sat really high up on the back of my neck, and it was making the darts sit in the wrong place, which was making the bodice puff up really strangely above the bust.

Of course, getting it to work took a lot of extra fiddling, which took a lot of extra time, and I ended up taking way too long on this project. Plus, I’ve been sick as a dog for the last week, which means May is officially up and I didn’t manage to get my other project ~ a winter blouse ~ done this month.  (TT ^ TT)

So, only one more project ticked off the great Sewing All the Things challenge of 2015, but at least it actually happened because I was worried there for a moment that I would end up having to toss the whole dress.

The source of much trouble! ~


Next question ~ does anyone want to purchase this pattern?  It will come with all the original pieces of the pattern, the original instructions {taped, because they are falling apart}, the original envelope, and also a copy of the bodice, sleeve, facings, waist inserts, tie, and pocket pattern pieces all traced onto Polytrace {similar to Swedish Tracing Paper ~ it’s a soft, woven fabric-like paper}. Basically, I traced off everything but the skirt, so you can work straight from the pattern copy.

If you would like to buy the pattern, along with the the Polytrace copies for $20.00 AUD, please email me with your Paypal address and mailing address, and I can send off an invoice which will also include whatever the P+P will cost.

~ Project Details ~

  • Year: 1948
  • Pattern: Simplicity 2275
  • Fabric: 2 1/2 metres of red and green sprig floral of poly-cotton{?}. I have no idea about the fibre content of this fabric as my Grandmother gave it to me.
  • Notions: None, is a wrap dress.
  • Time to complete: Three weeks
  • Make again? Nope. I really don’t want to make this dress again. It was just such a hassle to get it working properly that I really don’t want to go through all of that again. I like the dress, but not that much.
  • Wear again? I will, but I think it’ll probably be in my “around the house, running errands, going to playgroup, etc” wardrobe. Which is okay with me because I need more vintage around the house clothes anyway.
  • Total Cost:  $0.00 ~ yay for stash busting!

Have any of you had sewing dramas with almost-but-not-quite-failure projects before?  Would you seam rip to make it work, or try ‘hacking’ it up? Plus, how great are my new shoes ~ right?  (ノ ゜ω゜)ノ

xox,

bonita


༺ ♡ ༻


Find me:
Instagram | missbjvear
Pinterest | bjvear
Ravelry | BJVear
Twitter | bjvear
Youtube | Bonita Vear

Smooth Sailing Trousers – My First Pair of Pants!

After going through a phase of sewing nothing but knit dresses and T-shirts, I’m back with a very vintage-style garment! This is my first pair of pants, made from the Smooth Sailing Trousers pattern from Wearing History. Since I became interested in vintage styles, I’ve always loved 30’s/40’s style wide-leg trousers, and this pattern was exactly what I was looking for! It’s hard to see because the fabric is black, but there are pleats at the front, darts at the back, a side zipper, and optional cuffs, belt loop and belt. I made the version without cuffs, but with the belt loops. I skipped the belt, though, because I have a couple black belts already!

I cut a size 12 for the muslin and graded to a 14 at the hips, but ended up sizing up for a little more ease at the waist. I tweaked the fit a little though by keeping the darts, pleats and crotch curve from the size 12. I also shortened the pieces by 2″.

I used a bamboo rayon (not sure what to call it exactly) with nice drape, but it ended up being really shifty and stretchy on the bias after I washed it – it was originally very crisp and linen-like. It probably wasn’t ideal for these pants, because they’ve really stretched out and need re-hemming (possibly some other alterations too…).

The pattern is very simple to construct, perfect for someone new to making pants. The hardest part was working with the fabric! If they hadn’t stretched out so much, I would have been very happy with how they turned out. Right now, I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with them, but I’ve made anther pair and I can definitely say that I love the pattern and the style!

For more photos and construction details, check out my blog! I also wrote a detailed review of the pattern as a guest post on Sew Sweetness, if you want to know more about the pattern itself!

Oh, and I also made the blouse I’m wearing in these photos. It’s the Sewaholic Pendrell, made from a muumuu that I bought at a thrift store! Thanks for reading!

Simplicity 6220 (1965)

It’s wedding season! Guess who needs 5 million spring/summer cocktail dresses? (Hint: it’s me!)

simplicity 6220 | allie J. | alliemjackson.com

I made Simplicity 6220 in this pale aqua silk thinking it would be good for spring/summer with bare legs and wearable in winter with white or black tights. Three-season dressing!

simplicity 6220 | allie J. | alliemjackson.com

Here is a close up of the v-shaped princess seams. This was what drew me to the pattern.

simplicity 6220 | allie J. | alliemjackson.com

I posted more about the construction of this dress here and more photos of me wearing it here!

Thanks for reading!

xoxo,
Allie
alliemjackson.com

A Vintage Dress in Blackpool

Lucy-in-20th-Century-Cloth-2-1-copy

Hello, I want to share with you a 50s style dress that I made recently. It is with retro print fabric by 20th Century Cloth which I loved as it is 150cm wide … we all love a circle skirt! The pattern is an Eliza M one, which again I love – it fits well. I altered it ever so slightly but it was easy to do.

The dress was perfect for a stroll on the beach and then a trip to Blackpool Tower Ballroom. I felt just the part. I also wore my favourite Christian Dior vintage sunnies… ever hopeful of a sunny afternoon…

Lucy-in-20th-Century-Cloth-1-copy

Hope you like it. I recommend having a look at 20th Century Cloth for fabrics – they have some gorgeous prints for vintage dressmaking.

If you want to pop on to my blog’s project page and see anything else I have made then click here.

Loving all of your beautiful designs and makings. Thanks for reading!

Lucy x