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1930s | Blouses | Skirts

1930’s Green & Peach Ensemble

By on March 19, 2018

Have you ever come across the perfect fabric that goes with another fabric you’ve been waiting to do something with?  Well, this darling plaid came into my life and I just had a to make a new outfit around it. It’s a synthetic charmeuse, which is not a regular go-to for me.  I much prefer silk.

However, when I saw this plaid which was printed on the diagonal, it really screamed 1930’s blouse, right at me!  AND it matched perfectly with a beautiful green wool that’s been waiting to be made into something for quite some time.

1936 Ladie’s Skirt #T1047

The emerald green of the wool is one of my favorite colors and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to make this skirt, for which I had a pattern waiting in the wings.  I’ve used this pattern twice before, once recently using a wool tweed and made slightly shorter.  It’s the Vintage Pattern Lending Library – 1936 Ladies Skirt – #T1047 – re-sized to fit my body measurements.

I used the re-issue of Simplicity 8247, to make my blouse.  Using Version C, I shortened the dress at the hip line to create the blouse.  It worked out very well.

For more photos and information about my hat and bag, visit my BLOG.

Until Next Time, Happy Sewing!

Jennifer

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Vintage Sewing

Butterick “New Deltor” 1919

By on February 18, 2018

Hi! This is my first post, but I’ve spent much time pouring through all your fantastic projects!  My name is Erika and I live in Chicago.

I bought this vintage pattern a few months ago and dusted off my aunt’s sewing machine.. I wish I could say, it came together easily, but it was more like three months of grueling effort.

But now that its done I might throw out all my other clothes. I love it.

I also loved working from the true original, crumbling pattern.  And making the muslin copy with tailor’s tacs.. The typography is even amazing.

 

Thanks for looking.

May all your seams be french xo

Erika

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1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

1940s Vogue 8811 (For the hot Australian summer)

By on January 27, 2018


This is my second Vogue 8811. Made from a beautiful navy blue based Japanese cotton lawn.

Western Sydney has had weeks of over 40ºC and this dress is perfect. High jewel neckline and kimono sleeves to protect from the sun, and a lovely tea length to stop behind-the-knee sunburn.

The only seriously mod was to omit the sleeve facings, I did a narrow hem instead.

Swing by my blog to for more details and images!

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1970s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

Winter Sewing (McCalls 4968)

By on January 9, 2018

 

I just finished sewing a winter wool jumper dress from 1970s-era McCall’s 4968.  I’m very happy with it: it is comfortable, unusual, and very warm.  My Grandpa and Grandma both made admiring comments about it when I wore it for the first time last Sunday.  The thrifted worsted wool was easy to work with so long as I was careful to press it well, grade all the seams, and edge-stitch all the darts, seams, and edges on the right side to keep them flat and crisp.

Please come visit the sewing blog that I share with my husband for more details and other recent vintage sewing projects: Mr and Mrs Rat.

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1930s | Coats | Vintage Sewing

By on December 19, 2017

1930s winter coat

One thing I’ve wanted to make for a couple of years now is a 1930s warm winter coat. In the past I never quite had the right coat to go with my 1930s clothing and this year I was on a mission to resolve that problem. After purchasing a beautiful original 1930s halo hat in dark teal felt wool, I knew this was the colour my coat had to be. It was neutral enough to go with most things, but wasn’t the same old black, grey or navy that most coats seem to be in.

1930s coat top stitching detail

I set on a mission to find the perfect matching shade of dark teal in a heavy wool fabric and after several months I finally stumbled across a gorgeous one from Dragonfly Fabrics. It has an amazing diagonal textured design to it, which creates a lovely interest to the fabric.

The pattern I used was a self-draft pattern from an original 1930s tailoring booklet, which allowed me to create one exactly to my size in an authentic 1930s design. I did make an adjustment to the front curved seam though, as the original line didn’t really suit me across the chest. This was simple enough to do and I actually think the final seam looks much better.

I also decided to make the top line of the cuff curve with the front seam of the coat to make it look like the line was carrying on. Thankfully this worked spot on when I sewed it all up, something I wasn’t entirely convinced would happen!

1930s coat - back

You can read so much more about this coat and how I made it by heading to my blog. You’ll also find loads of photos, including ones of the incredible Autumn inspired lining and all of the matching garments that create the entire ensemble.

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1930s | Blouses | Coats | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

December Red – a 1930’s Red Wool Ensemble

By on December 17, 2017

This outfit all began the fabric. The print (Asian Art Deco?) from this quilting cotton was irresistible and there was just enough of it (left to purchase) to scrape out a blouse. It seemed so suited for something 1930’s, but is a quilting cotton, so not terribly drapey. I already had a very long length of wool crepe that coordinated, so I knew I could make something to go with the finished piece.

I went in  search for the perfect 1930’s blouse pattern, to start, which proved to be a little easier said than done, as I had trouble finding a blouse pattern that suited the fabric. I did settle on a gorgeous 1930’s dress pattern with a fabulous neck bow, that could be converted into a blouse and skirt. Next up, I searched for a coat pattern and ended up finding all my patterns in the same place. Yay!

The Dress Pattern (above) that I chose to adapt to a blouse and skirt, appealed to me, at first, because of the bow, but also because of the angled shaping of the front opening and V-shape at the center front on the skirt. Because of the minimal length of fabric, I knew the fuller sleeve was not an option.  The short puff sleeve seemed more flattering as well, so I did end up using it in the end.

The Coat pattern was an easy choice.  I love that it had some flair to both the sleeves and the bottom edge.  It seemed a very easy and less formal design that would pair nicely with the finished skirt and blouse.

Each piece turned out very well and I’m excited to wear them all to a Caroling party next weekend.  The Red is VERY festive, don’t you think?

If you would like to see more of how I adapted the dress pattern into a skirt and blouse, some great sewing techniques for the coat and all my resources for the entire ensemble, please visit my blog.

Until next time, Happy Sewing!

xo

Jennifer

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1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

1948 Vintage Vogue 9280

By on December 16, 2017
Pattern envelope, Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

Hello, everyone!

A couple weeks ago I stitched up Vintage Vogue 9280, which was a recent reproduction pattern that was released this past year.

 

Completed Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

I’m actually very impressed with how it came out!

No doubt about it, this piece is a jour-neeeeyyyy in the amount of hand sewing and moments when you think the project is nearly done… until it isn’t!

But then again, if you’re into vintage sewing, chances are the hand sewing is no biggie!

 

How to fit Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

The muslin process of this piece was actually pretty straight forward.

Even with princess seams, inverted darts, and multiple smaller shaping darts, getting the sorted muslin wasn’t too bad. I focused specifically on shortening the bodice and getting the princess seam taken care of, which were the primary fitting points.

 

Interior detail from Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

This project was a nice excuse to work on bound buttonholes.

Even though on the exterior there are only four visible bound buttonholes, there are actually a total of eight! The removable collar is stitched up in the same way as the bodice collar, with bound buttonholes matching up on the interior with button links.

 

Completed Vintage Vogue 9280, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

 

Do I love the dress? Yes! But there are some caveats!

I go into them more in depth over on my website, but essentially it comes down to that open collar design feature.

 

Click here to see more photos + video of the sewing process or-

click here to see info + video of the fitting process.

 

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