1950s | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

Spider Web Taffeta Circle Skirt

By on October 31, 2016

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I really do try my best to buy natural fibers, I’m just not a fan of polyester or acetate, nor nylon or spandex. Then of course there comes along a fabric so fun or downright special that I have to break my own rules… like flocked velvet spider webs on black taffeta! It may not be silk, but this fabric was too great to pass up!

The pattern for a circle skirt is so simple to cut and sew together it’s no wonder the style remains popular among vintage reproduction sewers. The hardest part is the zipper, but then again perhaps zippers and I just don’t get along and other seamstresses don’t fear them the same way I do! The hems on these skirts sure do take ages to finish if you are doing them by hand though.I usually finish circle skirt hems with bias tape sewn on by machine then ironed under and stitched down by hand. It takes two and a half packages of pre-made bias tape to do such a hem, but it is so worth it in the end! No hassle, just time consuming!

 

 

 

 

 

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The skirt has a lot of natural body to it as the taffeta is quite stiff on its own, but of course I still wore it over a petticoat too for maximum flair. Another way to get this kind of body in a circle skirt with a less stiff fabric is to use horsehair braid in the hem, but I didn’t have to bother for this skirt. I have been putting twill tape in all of my waistbands though so they don’t stretch out on me after the first wearing. There is nothing more annoying than having a waistband suddenly grow a few inches out of nowhere as it isn’t a fun repair to make!

For more photos of this outfit visit me over on The Closet Historian. Happy Halloween everyone!

 

 

 

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1960s | Skirts

3 Different Delphine Skirts

By on October 6, 2016

On of my most used patterns right now is the Delphine Skirt from the book Love at First Stitch by Tilly Walnes.

Akram's Ideas : 3 New Delphine Skirts
I made 3 different Delphine Skirts

While I’ve made a few of these skirts in the past, it was the “One Week One Pattern” or #OWOP16 challenge hosted by Cinderellis Sews, that prompted me to make a few new ones.

The goal of the challenge was to wear garments made from one pattern of your choice, every day for one week. I already had 4 previously made Delphine skirts, so that meant I only needed 3 more to make.

You can read about my previous makes here:

While the Delphine skirt is not exactly a vintage pattern it is retro inspired. The skirt itself has a classic 1960’s A-Line design.

Akram's Ideas : 3 New Delphine Skirts
I love this nautical inspired one

In the book Love at First Stitch , Tilly goes over a couple of variations on the skirt. Such as adding buttons to the font. Which is what I did for this nautical inspired version.

Akram's Ideas : 3 New Delphine Skirts
This brown Delphine skirt is prefect for fall

Since it’s officially autumn I decided that my next two skirts be autumn appropriate. I started first with a brown skirt. I need more brown in my wardrobe.

Akram's Ideas : 3 New Delphine Skirts
Love the color of this purple Delphine skirt

I followed up with a lovely purple skirt made out of a quilted type fabric. For both the brown and purple skirt I added a lining for warmth. I also added belt loops which are an option in the book. Finally I also added pockets, because skirts need pockets.

To read more about my process for making my these lovely Delphine skirts check out my blog Akram’s Ideas (http://akramsideas.com/week-delphine-skirt-owop16/)

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1930s | Blouses | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

My Exploring New Colours 1930s Outfit

By on September 23, 2016

1930s coral skirt and blouse

Does anyone else find themselves sticking to the same colours with their sewing? I was very much guilty of this until I made a New Year’s resolution to explore new colours, even ones I’d never worn before. One colour that surprised me on this journey was coral. It all began when I spotted a gorgeous coral linen/cotton mix fabric on the website of my favourite fabric shop, ClothSpot. I fell in love and set out to find a patterned fabric that went with it. I found a beautiful one on Fabric Godmother, which had a mixture of coral, turquoise, mustard yellow and fawn in it. I knew it was the one!

1930s bow blouse

I, of course, stuck to my favourite era, the 1930s. I used the coral linen mix for a complicated pleated skirt and the patterned cotton lawn for a short sleeve blouse. The blouse was made using an original 1930s pattern I bought at a vintage fair (you can see it here). However, I decided not to do it with a Peter Pan collar and instead I created a V neckline and added a large pussy bow.

The sleeves are my favourite part as they remind of the puffball skirts of the 1980s. The cuffs are secured with elastic and you push them up inside the sleeve when you wear it to create the puff shape.

Mrs Depew 1930s skirt pleat

The skirt was the hardest part, not only because the fabric was such a pain and kept moving, but also because of the pattern I chose. It was an original 1930s draft at home pattern which I bought from Mrs Depew on Etsy. The illustration of the skirt and the illustration of the pattern pieces just didn’t seem to add up. You can see how confusing it was here.

I’m still not convinced I did it exactly right but at least the complicated double pleat looks like the skirt illustration. Also, I’m really, really chuffed with how the two pieces go together and make a really lovely 1930s day outfit. I just wish, despite my love of pushing myself with my sewing, that it had been a bit easier!

If you want to read more about it, and see other detail pictures, just pop on over to my blog.

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1940s | 1960s | Blouses | Jackets | Skirts

Separates turned Suit

By on September 22, 2016
Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green

Back in spring I had planned to participate in the Vintage Suit-Sew-Along. While I never did get around to making a vintage suit per-say; I did manage to make this great vintage inspired suit.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
This suit is amazing!

My lovely green suit is made up completely of separates. I actually started this project with the blouse using Simplicity 1364.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
Yes, I know another Simplicity 1364 top

I wanted to make a skirt to go with the blouse and the Delphine skirt from the book “Love at First Stitch” By Tilly Walnes. This is my go to skirt pattern.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
The Delphine skirt is so easy to make

Once I had the blouse and skirt I thought this outfit was the start of the prefect vintage style suit. All it needed was a jacket to top it off.

Since I had limited fabric I deiced to make the bolero using Butterick 6354 pattern.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
This bolero really finished the outfit

This was the perfect paring of separates into the most amazing suit. I love this suit from the color the print. It may just be my favorite outfit I’ve made.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
I love everything about this suit

 

To read more about my process for making my lovely green suit check out my blog Akram’s Ideas (http://akramsideas.com/vintage-inspired-suit-green)

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1950s | Hats | Jackets | Skirts

My Vintage Suit ~ The Vintage Suit Sew Along

By on September 2, 2016

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Suit jacket pattern, Simplicity S-128 and skirt pattern, Advance 8443

Did you join us in the Vintage Suit Sew Along? It’s been keeping some of us vintage sewists busy for the last few months.

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Inspiration for my dream suit

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More inspiration

I opted for a lovely houndstooth fabric that was passed to me by a friend de-stashing, and for this I re-vamped one of my best hats, adding some fabric to co-ordinate with the suit.

My vintage suit sew along

I took my time with the toile, and getting the best fit….

My vintage suit sew along tall looking down nice shot

And I’m really happy with how it turned out, the shaping of the jacket is very true to the pattern illustration, with a nice wide hip skimming hem.

My vintage suit sew along swirl2

Some detail, bound buttonholes, cuffs and side seam pocket.

My vintage suit sew along gloves, cuffs

I have many more photos on my blog, and you can have a look at the making posts there too! Also, there are a couple of other makers working on their suits, soon to be shared, so take a look at the other makes while you’re there x

#vintagesuitsewalong #vintagepledge

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1960s | Blouses | Shirts | Skirts

Gathered Skirt Paired with Simplicity 1364

By on July 21, 2016

In an earlier post I mentioned how much I love Simplicity 1364 blouse pattern. I loved it so much I wanted to make more versions of this blouse.

While searching my stash I found I had a lovely butterfly print fabric and decided to use it for another blouse.

Akram's Ideas : Simplicity 1364 & Gathered Skirt
I love this cheerful butterfly print

I really liked how the piping turned out on my shift dress I decided to add piping to this blouse.

After making the blouse I found that I had enough fabric left over that I could make a matching skirt.

I decided to make a simple gathered skirt. To give the set a more dress like appearance I aded piping to the skirt waistband.

Akram's Ideas : Simplicity 1364 & Gathered Skirt
I can wear it as a dress or as sperates

While the print might be a bit childish I really love the fun look of this this combo. I also love that at first glance it looks like a dress, but has the versatility of a two piece.

To read more about my process for making this set check out my blog Akram’s Ideas (http://akramsideas.com/butterfly-dress-purple-piping/)

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1930s | Blouses | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

1930s Wallis Simpson Inspired Blouse

By on May 12, 2016

Wallis Simpson, double collar blouse, 1936

I have coveted the beautiful double collar blouse Wallis Simpson wore during a cruise with Edward VIII in 1936 ever since I first saw the photograph many years ago. I love the fact that despite it being a very simple design it has lots and lots of gorgeous detailing on it. I also love the way it fits her so perfectly, so I was inspired to make my own version for my 1930s wardrobe. However, I didn’t want to do a direct copy of it but rather take the details of it and make my own version.

1930s burgundy outfit

I drafted the pattern myself from some old pattern blocks I made at college and it took two mock ups to get the fit just right. I wanted it to fit snuggly enough that it looked like a tailored shirt but also loose enough so I could move in it. The measurement across the shoulder blades was the trickiest, mainly because I was trying to do it on myself in the mirror!

The olive and burgundy berry cotton fabric came from my favourite fabric shop, ClothSpot and I knew it would go perfectly with the calf length burgundy skirt I’d recently made from an original 1930s sewing pattern. It took me a while to figure out what I wanted to do in terms of the detailing and what colours I wanted them to be but it was worth taking the time to get it right.

1930s Double Collar Blouse

The largest of the two collars was also self drafted using my oh-so-faithful pattern cutting book, Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wearspacer by Winifred Aldrich. I then traced it again and took about two centimetres off the outside edges to create the second one. The burgundy cotton was from my very big fabric stash and the ivory was rushed to me by ClothSpot after I discovered that I only had white or cream and neither of them were quite right.

Self covered belt buckle

The buttons are self-covered just like the ones on Wallis’ blouse and I also had the belt buckle covered for me by the London Button Company. I’d never used them before but I would highly recommend them to anyone, they were very quick and very helpful when I had questions. As the name suggests they also do buttons, all of which you can have covered in your own fabric, as well as a good range of buckles.

The buckle and the belt, which I made myself, is done in the same wool crepe type fabric of the skirt so it can be worn on top of the blouse or around the waistband of the skirt. This allows me to tuck the blouse in if I wish.

If you would like to read more about my version of Wallis Simpson’s 1930s blouse and see more photos, feel free to pop over to my blog.

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