Pattern Sizing

I have just recently started sewing vintage again and unfortunately I am a bigger girl so all patterns are going to need to be graded up.  Now I know how to do the slash and spread method, however they only tell you how to spread it from left to right.  I don’t quite understand how to do the measurements to add length.  How many inches or quarter inches or whatever do you need to add per size.  I have looked at a dozen tutorials and no one gives you solid numbers.  Thanks for your attention.

Andrea S.

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spotty rose dressI’m on a roll with summer sewing, spurred on by the amazing heatwave we are experiencing in the UK. These style dresses are so easy to whip up, especially now that I’ve mastered the fitting on a princess seam bodice. This is the 4th dress I’ve made using this bodice pattern but the only one that I would say fits properly.

spotty rose dress

I’ve only just got used to wearing full skirts but I love the 1950s vibe this style has. And its great for accessorising with a pair of crazy, pink, furry, leopard-print shoes!

spotty rose dress on the step

It nearly wasn’t a real dress as I didn’t like the fabric. I only intended it to be a toile before I cut my special fabric. But when I saw how it looked I decided it was for keeps after all!

More details and photos over at ooobop!

 

 

 

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Simplicity 1443 UNCUT Vintage 50s Adorable Baby Infant Layette Sewing Pattern with Embroidery Transfer One Size

I’ve posted an infant dress from view 2 of this pattern.  I like it enough I decided to make it bigger.  My first try at making it a size two was so big that with the hem let down it fit a size 6.  I did a second one and got closer to size two.  The photo shows the dress before hemming.  I feel I am not done with these yet.  Sash maybe?   The smaller dress needs a brighter accent, but I am proud of the bias binding I zigzagged around the sleeve openings.  I make the neck opening with a casing and tie so the neckline is adjustable.  These dresses should grow at least 2 years.  Maybe more.

Any thoughts on the styling?  My idea is something between the simplicity of a pillowcase dress but more attractive than most peasant dresses.

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Pants and I don’t get along particularly well.  If they fit over my hips and rear, they gape terribly at the waist, and pants that fit at the waist won’t go up over my thighs.  Evidently, the only solution is to sew my own!

I’ve seen lots of rave reviews of the wide-legged pants pattern in Simplicity 3688, and since I picked the pattern up for a song at one of those lovely pattern sales.  I made up the first iteration (my “Wearable Muslin!”) out of some sort of olive green mystery synthetic that  I picked up at Goodwill for about $5.  This pattern has a fair amount of ease, and I ended up mostly cutting out a size 14, but tapering in to a size 10 at the waist.  I feel like the back darts pull a little bit (maybe I need to make them shorter?) but otherwise the fit is perfection!

I made a second iteration in a black cotton twill, which had a lot more body than the first fabric I used.  I also ended up adding about three inches to the length, because although I don’t think of myself as a particularly tall person (I’m 5’6″!) I was only able to put a very narrow hem in my muslin without making them too short.  This time, I was actually able to put in the folded hem that the pattern calls for!  They look a bit rumpled in the photo because I had been sitting all day, but I think that I (mostly) like them.


The third iteration of the pattern is another wearable muslin–I wanted to see if I could transform the pattern into some sort of wearable summer shorts.  These are made of some sort of cotton canvas with a tiny floral print that I found at Goodwill.  Unfortunately, the high waist + white shorts + tiny print makes me feel like I’m wearing boxer shorts!


I also somehow manage to construct the shorts completely catty-wompus… The zipper somehow ended up on the RIGHT side, and the button is all backward.  Fortunately, these are just grubby work shorts and I’ll be making a few more pairs in nicer fabric for actual wear.

I’m currently working on one more pair of shorts in a stretch cotton sateen.  The first zipper I put in broke (!!!!) so I need to replace it and hem the shorts still…. But that’s part of a bigger project, so I’ll share that once a few more of the pieces are done!

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