1930s | Pattern Sizing | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

A Tweed Skirt From a Vintage Sewing Pattern

By on November 6, 2017

The Bay Area Sewists met up at The Sewing Room (my Sewing School) a couple of weeks ago to talk with me about pattern measuring.  This is often a step overlooked by the home stitcher and I will admit that I fall prey to the impatience of just wanting to sew up and finish something without first making sure it will fit me. Case in point – This 1930’s skirt pattern.

Front Skirt

 

Back Skirt

So, this tweed version is my 3rd attempt at making this Vintage Pattern Lending Library style #T1047 skirt.  It’s labeled 30″ waist. The first time I sewed it up, I added 1″ to the pattern, overall, because my waist is 31″ and I figured that should be enough.  Well, as it turns out, that was not enough. and the skirt I made was much too small.

You might think I would have learned my lesson, but instead, I just cut out another skirt but added added several inches to the hips and waist, based on the garment I tried on before.  I wasn’t totally off base, and in fact, the skirt fits me pretty well, however now a little too big. Sadly, I never even changed the pattern. What was I thinking? no notes, no nothing.  Well, it did give me the opportunity to share this experience with you….If you would like to find out more about how I created this well fitting version using a more methodical process, head on over to my blog, where I go into more detail.

Until next time….Happy Sewing!

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1950s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Butterick 6453, Spring Jenny Dress

By on May 23, 2017
Patterns by Gertie Butterick 6453, View A | Vintage on Tap

 

I’m ready for all the summer dresses!

I hope you guys have already found your favorite summer sewing pattern to whip up tons of sundresses!

Butterick 6453, Gertie Sew Along | Vintage on Tap

Patterns by Gertie Butterick 6453, View A | Vintage on Tap

Making this dress was definitely quite a journey.

I broke down the entire process, from fitting to completed garment, in a bunch of videos, which really allowed me to take my time and make this dress right. The video series was a total of 5 videos long.

Butterick B6453, View B | Vintage on Tap

Butterick B6453, Sewing Pattern | Vintage on Tap

Did I love this pattern? Absolutely.

Midway through writing this post I went ahead and browsed Etsy for more fabric. View A (the yellow tulip dress) is tooooootally where my heart is at right now and I love how similar the design is to Pinup Girl Clothing’s Jenny Dress.

Overall, the garment was super simple to construct, but of course the trickiest part was doing a full bust adjustment on a princess seam. It turned out really well, though, and wouldn’t be afraid to tackle it again in the future.

Vintage on Tap, Butterick 6453

To view the full photoshoot, including all my sewing notes, check out my blog.

To watch the Sew Along video series (including fitting videos), head on over to YouTube. 

 

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1950s | Dresses | Mad Men Inspired | Pattern Drafting | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Vintage Vogue 8789, Fitting and sewing videos!

By on April 20, 2017
Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

Hello, everyone!

A couple of my favorite sewing bloggers (Abi and Akram) have both posted their Easter dresses, so I figured it was about time I posted mine 😘

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

For my Easter/Spring dress I made the super popular Vintage Vogue 8789, which always seems to make a return this time of year.

I actually really love how versatile the pattern is and it still continues to be a vintage sewist favorite, even if the reproduction pattern is out of print!

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

I made my version out of a stunning linen fabric that sews like butter and has such a yummy hand that looks great over a petticoat.

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

I went all out on the interior of my dress, stabilizing the neckline like crazy, using petersham ribbon this way and that to stabilize the seams, and added a waist stay for good measure. I’m equally- if not more so- happy with the interior than the exterior!

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

 

I actually filmed a fitting video for the girls out there that have to do some insane FBA action, with a petite frame. Shifted some darts around, shortened the length, took in the shoulder seam. In the end, it fit like a glove.

Check out the video for fitting Vogue 8789.

And if you just want to see my sewing tips for it, check out the sewing video for Vogue 8789.

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1950s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Western Jeans (Butterick 5895 meets Advance 8341, c. 1957)

By on March 28, 2015

I’m a little bit obsessed with Butterick 5895 (Gertie’s pants) now that I’ve gotten the fit perfected – so I thought I’d try making a pair of western jeans (ranch pants) from the same pattern.

The inspiration was this pattern – Advance 8341, View 1 – Frontier Pants.

pants

I guessed what the pockets should look like from a pair of Freddies Jeans, and added them to the Butterick version (and lengthened the legs).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pockets turned out better than I hoped for! I’m specially proud of the button holes – my machine is 1950’s and it’s pretty hard to do a nice button hole.

The fabric is stretch denim, but it’s not super stretchy as it holds it’s shape really well.

There’s nothing I would change about these jeans – not one thing!

If you’re interested, I did a quick tutorial on my blog showing how to adjust your pants pattern to allow for a bigger booty or belly (and what the Butterick pattern looks like unmodified for curves).

Share the curvy love!

XXX

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1950s | 1960s | Dating Patterns | Dresses | Mail Order Patterns | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

A Fish Trap Tiki Dress

By on November 2, 2014

It’s just about summer down here in Australia – and that means it’s time to start sewing summer dresses!

I’ve just finished a ‘Design by Clothilde’ pattern 3170, and it’s from 1960 (although I tried my darnedest to make it looks 50s).

And the pattern – isn’t the neckline killer?!

The fabric is an Indigenous Australian design called ‘Fish Traps’, another Babbarra Women’s Centre print from Spotlight. Thank goodness I got it for $7 a meter on sale, as this sucker took five meters! (The fabric was originally $20/m).

I’m in love with these Babbarra prints, they looks really ‘tiki’ in my opinion!

I had to re-size from a 36″ bust to a 40″ bust (and the waist of course), but it worked out fine. I completely lined the bodice and added some side boning for stability.

I also changed the skirt from a pleated circle skirt, to box-pleated skirt cut straight on the grain – the fabric pattern would have looked a bit odd otherwise.

If you’d like to read further, I have more on my blog!

 

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1950s | 1960s | Dresses | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Cherries and trouble

By on September 2, 2014

IMG_2641

Hello again! I’m here to show you another dress that I’ve recently finished. It’s actually my fourth dress ever and I love it to bits. It’s my best sew up until now. It’s lined, the seams are straight, the side zipper is hand picked beautifully, the hem is even and the shape of the skirt is lovely –and I’m really proud of that last effort because it was of my own design.

IMG_2685

Buuut, of course there were trouble along the way and even though I sized down the pattern to better fit my bust, it is still too big. I have no idea how that happened because I’ve been fitting it and checking if everything works well on my manneqin all the time and I was pleased with the result but when everything was finished, well… the bodice is too large on me in the bust area! In the second photo you can see the ugly tucks that I made to help it just a little.

Does anyone here have experience with old German patterns? Is there a lot of ease given in them? I keep having the same problem time and time again with these patterns and they are what I mainly use so… well, I’d really appreciate any suggestions.

You can see more photos of this dress on my blog, come take a look!

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1950s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Pattern Drafting | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

The Walk Away Dress–Sacrilegious Fit Solution?

By on May 4, 2014

Hello All

 

With winter in the Midwest finally behind us, I’d like to make some dresses from my fabric stockpile. Of course to get me back into the swing of things, I thought I’d do the Butterick 4790.   I know full well that the re-released pattern comes with a slew of fit issues.  So I pose the question: has anyone used a zipper?

I know that it’s not conventional, but neither am I.  The re-release pattern uses a full circle skirt instead of a half circle as the original did. Wouldn’t a zipper up the front balance out the weight of the back of the dress and keep it closed for less of a flyaway mishap?

Here is an example of the full zipper.  The zipper would also eliminate the need for a button closure.  I’m picturing something like a coat zipper that comes all the way unzipped.

Image courtesy of SoulStiches Blog as mine would not load.

 

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