Pattern Drafting

Hi all – I’m back!

It’s been both a busy and rough year for me so far, however now I’m back to creating on a much more regular basis.

This is my newest self-drafted retro-inspired piece. I’m totally in love with the print! I also integrated sort of a cap sleeve/capelet feel into the yoke by doing a drop shoulder technique with the patternmaking part.

I was also really excited that the Ford Galaxie was there in my neighborhood. Someone who lives there must own it since it’s always parked on the same street.

As always, you can see more detail photos on the blog. I don’t want to be a hog and take up too much room! <3

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The Pictorial Guide to Modern Home Dressmaking

The Pictorial Guide to Modern Home Dressmaking dates from 1940, and contains pages and pages of information about pattern drawing and adjusting.  This was the first book I turned to when I decided to make myself two new tops for the summer. First I followed the instructions for drafting a bodice pattern, made up a toile in calico, and then had to make serious adjustments and start again.

Once I was happy with the fit I made a top in batik which I had been lucky enough to find in a charity shop.

 

Batik Summer Top

Here is my daughter modelling the batik top for me.  We are close enough in size for her to model clothes I have made for myself.  The top was very easy to make – essentially it is from a basic bodice pattern, neckline and armholes adjusted for a cool summery look, with darts tapering the cut slightly to the waist, and a box pleated frill added at the bottom.

Having made this top and being satisfied with the fit and style, I then made a second version in high quality cotton.

 

Oakshott Herringbone Cotton Summer Top

Here is the blue version in a herringbone cotton.  The cotton is a medium weight shirting with a beautiful soft feel.  This blue cotton has a much more vintage look to it than the batik, and it called for dark navy buttons and a decorative ribbon to trim to give it a detailed finished effect.

These tops are lovely and cool to wear, and quick and easy to make.  I hope they give plenty of inspiration for everyone who is busy revamping their summer wardrobe.  For lots more information and photos of the book and the two tops, just follow the three links to the three separate posts in my blog.

 

 

 

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Hi, this is a dress with rather fab coffee pots and tea cups on!  I drafted the pattern using an Enid Gilchrist book.  I lurve these books and have made a few things using them.

I decided to add a gathered skirt to the bodice because I had a large piece of fabric and only have one seam on the left side where the invisible zip is.  I managed to match the pattern on this seam too so it is almost invisible too.  For an extra detail I added blue ric rac to the waist seam and along the edges of the sleeves and neck edge.  The sleeves are ‘grown on’ sleeves with a little gusset under the arm.  This pattern appealed to me for that so that I wouldn’t cut up any of the pots and cups on the fabric.

In this photo I’m wearing a cotton cardigan I made last year from a Rowan pattern.  The pattern had a peplum but I chose to start from the waist edge instead so that I could wear it with full skirts and you can still see my waist.

 

 

 

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self drafted dress film noir

This dress is my second attempt at pattern drafting. I re-drafted my bodice block and made further alterations but still I need to take some volume from the back.

This was apparent when I came to draft the skirt. There was precious little difference between the back hip and waist measurements!

But I went with it after checking the measurements of the bodice.

It all works reasonably well but the side seams sit a little bit too forward for my liking and I’m sure by taking out the excess at the back it will make them sit properly. And will also give the back skirt a better shape at the waist!

self drafted wiggle dress

Hoping to prove myself right with the next version.

The design is based on a general 50s shape but I really like the angular necklines of the 40s. I’m not sure of the fabric content. It could be upholstery material! About 6 meters was given to me so I figured I could use it for this test dress and have plenty left over if I messed up!

As for the crazy  photos, Mr Ooobop was determined to practice with his new camera flash and who am I to argue?! A little wave of the Photoshop wand and abracadabra, all sorts of crazy faux film noir was achieved!

self drafted wiggle dress

More over on the blog

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