1950s | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

Constructing Cigarette Pants, & a Flat-Lining Tutorial

By on September 28, 2014

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Hi all!  I’m documenting the process of drafting and constructing my 1950s cigarette pants, and this time I’m flat-lining them (an underlining technique that also functions as a seam finish).   Lots of photos, as well as full instructions if you want to try it yourself, are here at my blog:

Constructing Cigarette Pants: Flat-Lining

along with the first two posts in the series, Drafting Cigarette Pants and Drafting Cigarette Pants, Part 2.

Happy sewing!

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1950s | Pants / Trousers | Pattern Drafting | Vintage Sewing

Drafting Cigarette Pants

By on September 19, 2014

I’m not brand-new to pants (the first pair of jeans I made), but I’ve never drafted slim-fit trousers before and to be honest they’re a bit intimidating. So math!  Much fitting!  Wow!  But I have some great herringbone woolen in my stash (somewhere between a flannel and a boiled wool, very nice quality, from Gorgeous Fabrics a couple of years back), a job I can’t wear jeans to, and a sudden interest in late-1950s silhouettes, so I thought it was time to take on the challenge.

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Drafting discussion and fitting photos are here at my blog.  I made a couple of breakthroughs and (hopefully) did away with a major fit issue in every pair of pants I’ve ever sewn.  I would love some input from those of you who are experienced at fitting pants–there are some horizontal wrinkles in the back thigh that are still stumping me:

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Needs length in the back fork, maybe?

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1930s | Blouses | Pants / Trousers

Sporty Separates

By on September 2, 2014

I’m not one for actual sports or sporting events but I do love the sporty look popular in the 1930s. In need of some separates, I sewed up this outfit.

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The pants are a refashion of some 1930s trousers that I made ages ago. They were way to big and just not flattering! So I deconstructed them and reused the blue linen for a new pair of pants.

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The blouse I made from Simplicity 3173 from the 1930s. I also snagged some cute repro 1930s printed cotton that was just perfect for this blouse! You can’t tell from here but it also has small navy bits in the print which makes my inner matchy-matchy sense happy!

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I’m quite happy with how both of these pieces turned out. I even have some khaki cotton twill that would be just perfect for another pair of pants! I’m so ready for fall!

More photos and construction details are over on my blog.

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1940s | 1950s | Blouses | Pants / Trousers | Rompers / Playsuits | Shirts | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

A Watermelon Playsuit

By on July 16, 2014

I made a new playsuit!

I’ve been wanting to make another playsuit in fun colors ever since last summer’s adventure, and when I saw a watermelon print fabric at Joann’s I snapped up the last few yards that were left on the bolt.

I ended up compiling four patterns to get the basic pieces:  Simplicity 4395 and Vogue 3282 for the bodice and Simplicity 3688 and Butterick 7761 for the shorts.  I also put together a simple dirndl skirt without a pattern.

I’m super pleased with how it came out… I really like the high waisted shorts, and the watermelon fabric is such fun.  I even made a little matching belt out of an old cheapy kid’s belt from Target.  It’s a little messy, but it will do for now.  I’ll definitely make the shorts again, although I may lengthen the inseam a smidgen!  I’m also thinking of making another top option out of my remaining watermelon fabric & opinions on that would be awesome.

More pictures of the play version, the dress version, and the construction details can be found on my blog!

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1940s | Pants / Trousers

1940s Trousers (Simplicity 3688)

By on June 30, 2014

At the beginning of the year I set myself the goal of sewing three items of clothing that I’ve never made before – trousers, a swimsuit, and a coat. One down, two to go, as I recently made my first pair of trousers!
Vintage Simplicity 3688 19040s Trousers
These were made using Simplicity 3688 which is a reproduction 1940s pattern. The pattern envelope includes both the adorable original illustrations, and photos of the finished items which (while not exactly thrilling photos) allow you to get a sense of the finished shape.
Vintage Simplicity 3688 19040s Trousers
I would totally recommend these trousers to other trouser newbies. They are made from only three pattern pieces (five fabric pieces) and are a quick make (my favourite kind!). Personally I love the vintage shape with the high waist & wide leg. I used a grey polyester suiting fabric which has a nice drape which suits the wide leg & is light-weight for the summer.
Vintage Simplicity 3688 19040s Trousers

Vintage Simplicity 3688 19040s Trousers
I was lucky enough to get to take these photographs in the Lake District, actually at Beatrix Potter’s House and just outside. For those outside the UK who may not know it, the Lake District it is like a storybook version of England – all tiny villages, countryside, slate and stones walls. Basically it’s gorgeous.

More photos and nattering on my blog, English Girl at Home

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1940s | Pants / Trousers

Jeans!

By on May 8, 2014

I’ve always liked the 1940’s style trousers I saw on other blogs… Now, I’ve drafted and sewn a pair for myself. With a sailor front.

High waistline, fairly loose fit at the hip, straight wide legs. I made these in fairly thin and drapey dark blue denim and used golden yellow topstitching thread for the flat felled seams. And because of the wide shape, I could flat fell all the leg seams.

These jeans are really comfortable and I quite like the look with a top tucked in. Now, I just need to make some more blouses…

More pictures and the full story at my blog

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1940s | 1950s | Blouses | Burlesque / Pinup | Hats | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

A White Gypsy Top and shorts made by me!

By on January 26, 2014

Hi everyone!

A few weeks ago I made this white gypsy top… I had been wanting one for agessssssss and have always loved them!

I made the cropped version as it is perfect for summer and can be paired with high waist skirts, short or jeans etc.

I found the pattern at a op-shop (thrift store) for 60 cents! Next time I might add the material frill trim and possibly attach the pom-pom trimming. I am currently making the longer version of this top with red ric-rac as a gift for my friend’s birthday and it looks lovely so far!

I like that I can wear the sleeves up or down!

Here are a two ways that I styled it!

(Lemon/Lime skirt is by Tara Starlet)

I also made these shorts with a 1940s pattern and paired them with my gypsy top at the beach! I bought the pattern as a PDF file on esty…

It seems like not all of the directions for the shorts were properly scanned and were missing so it made it a bit tricky… I have made quite a few pairs of shorts though with a 1960s pattern so I did understand the construction of shorts and just went with the flow. The fit is not perfect (A little loose, but I don’t mind that on a hot summers day, they still fit and look quite nice). Next time I will work on the fit around the waist and probably sew an attachment belt onto the shorts instead of just folding them over, I could then add a button above the zip to improve the fit even more.

I was lucky to score 6 of the Butterick Retro reproduction patterns today at the sewing store, 3 patterns for $10! I can’t wait to get started on them!

See the full Lemon/lime gypsy post here and the beach post here!

Kayla – Gracefullyvintage

 

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