1940s | 1950s | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

1940s Jeans (EvaDress/Simplicity 3322)

By on July 5, 2015

I freakin’ love these jeans, and I love how versatile the EvaDress Wide Leg Trouser pattern is!

It might be hard to believe, but these jeans started life as very wide legged swing trousers, from EvaDress 3322.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The fabric was a medium weight denim (not as heavy as rigid denim), and I used a beige top-stitch thread instead of golden-yellow.

I also made a top of modifications, including:

  • Raising the crotch depth about half an inch (they were a fraction too low last time I used this pattern)
  • Narrowing the legs and hips a bit more
  • Removing the front waist dart (tutorial coming to my blog very soon)
  • Adding the slant pockets
  • Add belt carriers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Result = Freddies of Pinewood eat your heart out! Super comfy and I need more pairs of these in my life right now!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As always, more details on my blog and thanks for letting me post…

 

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1930s | 1940s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

Smooth Sailing Trousers – My First Pair of Pants!

By on May 31, 2015

After going through a phase of sewing nothing but knit dresses and T-shirts, I’m back with a very vintage-style garment! This is my first pair of pants, made from the Smooth Sailing Trousers pattern from Wearing History. Since I became interested in vintage styles, I’ve always loved 30’s/40’s style wide-leg trousers, and this pattern was exactly what I was looking for! It’s hard to see because the fabric is black, but there are pleats at the front, darts at the back, a side zipper, and optional cuffs, belt loop and belt. I made the version without cuffs, but with the belt loops. I skipped the belt, though, because I have a couple black belts already!

I cut a size 12 for the muslin and graded to a 14 at the hips, but ended up sizing up for a little more ease at the waist. I tweaked the fit a little though by keeping the darts, pleats and crotch curve from the size 12. I also shortened the pieces by 2″.

I used a bamboo rayon (not sure what to call it exactly) with nice drape, but it ended up being really shifty and stretchy on the bias after I washed it – it was originally very crisp and linen-like. It probably wasn’t ideal for these pants, because they’ve really stretched out and need re-hemming (possibly some other alterations too…).

The pattern is very simple to construct, perfect for someone new to making pants. The hardest part was working with the fabric! If they hadn’t stretched out so much, I would have been very happy with how they turned out. Right now, I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with them, but I’ve made anther pair and I can definitely say that I love the pattern and the style!

For more photos and construction details, check out my blog! I also wrote a detailed review of the pattern as a guest post on Sew Sweetness, if you want to know more about the pattern itself!

Oh, and I also made the blouse I’m wearing in these photos. It’s the Sewaholic Pendrell, made from a muumuu that I bought at a thrift store! Thanks for reading!

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1940s | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

1940s Wide Leg Trousers (EvaDress/Simplicity 3322)

By on May 13, 2015

2015 seems to be the the Year of the Pants for me – no more procastinating.

On the way  to sewing my dream project – perfect vintage jeans – I finally made the EvaDress Wide Leg Trousers (3322), a repro of Simplicity 3322 c.1940. The fabric is navy gaberdine.

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I haven’t made an EvaDress pattern before, so I wasn’t sure what to expect with fit etc. I did have to make four muslins to get the fit right though – it may have been due to the pattern grading to a large size (I made size 40). Thankfully pants are normally pretty quick to sew up.

The main changes I made were to use a back zipper instead of side buttons, and to lengthen the crotch depth by about 3/4 inch.

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I’ve already made another pair up in cranberry gaberdine, and have a chocolate pair waiting in the wings too.

Even better, they go perfectly with a Smooth Sailing Blouse that I made a while back (isn’t orange and navy a great combination?). I think this may be the 15th time I’ve made this pattern up, it’s such a great staple.

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As always, there’s more on my blog!

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1950s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Western Jeans (Butterick 5895 meets Advance 8341, c. 1957)

By on March 28, 2015

I’m a little bit obsessed with Butterick 5895 (Gertie’s pants) now that I’ve gotten the fit perfected – so I thought I’d try making a pair of western jeans (ranch pants) from the same pattern.

The inspiration was this pattern – Advance 8341, View 1 – Frontier Pants.

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I guessed what the pockets should look like from a pair of Freddies Jeans, and added them to the Butterick version (and lengthened the legs).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pockets turned out better than I hoped for! I’m specially proud of the button holes – my machine is 1950’s and it’s pretty hard to do a nice button hole.

The fabric is stretch denim, but it’s not super stretchy as it holds it’s shape really well.

There’s nothing I would change about these jeans – not one thing!

If you’re interested, I did a quick tutorial on my blog showing how to adjust your pants pattern to allow for a bigger booty or belly (and what the Butterick pattern looks like unmodified for curves).

Share the curvy love!

XXX

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1950s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers

Everyone loves a Bad Girl (Butterick 5895)

By on March 23, 2015

I feel really late to the party sewing up Gertie’s Butterick 5895 – better late than never though!

I’d wanted a pair of 1950s fitted pants for ages, but wasnt sure a bigger gal like me could pull them off – I was so wrong!

With a few mods (full list on my blog) to make adjustments for a big booty and large calves, they fit perfectly.

I used a stretch cotton chino (had it for 10 years in my stash) and would recommend using a heavier weight stretch cotton so it won’t hug your bumps and lumps.

Verdict – perfection! I need these in ankle length, in demin, and in novelty prints! I can also see these pants being the basis for little shorts, and maybe even a playsuit.

Bigger girls – definitely add these to your sewing list! xxx

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1800s | Mens | Pants / Trousers

Edwardian Waistcoat and trousers.

By on February 25, 2015

So been crazy busy with school but its reading week so I have some time to post some things I have been making lately.  Last semester I had a major Tailoring project which consisted of a waist coat and trousers. I ended choosing the edwardian era, about 1895 was the year I choose.

Before I came to school, I have never made mens wear or anything so time consuming, with all the canvas, slip stitching and cross stiching, india tape and etc.

This was also my first pair of trouser with a fly zip i have made. Which I know is not period accurate. But it’s costume studies we need simple and easy for quick changes if they are necessary.

It’s made from 100% pure wool and lining material that was originally blue satin which did not work out so i switch out for black.

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and by chance I actually fit into my final project so I wear my waistcoat with jeans or some of my circle skirts. the trousers only fit because of the pockets that all my hips to fit into the pants!

Also not really retro, but this semester we made jacket. Totally got my teacher to let me make the latest doctors jacket and it fits!

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1940s | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

Academy 2953, 1940s slacks

By on January 4, 2015

It’s been a while since I have shared my vintage sewing projects here, I have loved getting the weekly email in my inbox though! And I have certainly been very busy sewing….

2014 has been a year of vintage separates, and it has been really good for me embracing pants (for one thing) and not being afraid to sew myself a pair (or several) my favourite pair is this one: a 1940s (I think) pattern, Academy 2953, in some beautiful linen from my nana’s stash.

Academy 2953 pattern

I have always loved the Katherine Hepburn wide leg trouser look, so these are a nod to her and that chic trouser look that was so popular in the 1940s.

Academy 2953 slacks and Austin

As always, more photos on my blog, Academy 2953.

Academy 2953 slacks side on

Happy new year xo

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