1950s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Butterick 5882 – Shoulder Pad Shelf Bust Bra

By on July 26, 2015

Cocktail Rebel was a Rockabilly event at the beautiful McNay Art Museum. Upon deciding to attend with two of my girlfriends, I asked them what they wanted to wear. My BFF sent me a picture of Cha Cha’s prom dress featured in the movie “Grease”.

I had Gertie’s retro pattern, Butterick 5882, that I had been wanting to try.

butterick 5882

I wanted to keep the ruffles from the Cha Cha dress, at the bust. I pulled out a damaged vintage peignoir set that I was saving for such a project.

ruffle peignoir

I had also recently snagged some small shoulder pads at a thrift store, and immediately thought I would try something new. I wanted to place a shelf bra in the dress with padding at the bra cups. I decided to sew the shoulder pads together to make a full circle. I then added elastic, slightly stretched, around each top half of my ‘cups’ to ensure coverage and give each a more natural shape.

shoulder pad cup

I then encased each cup in the peignoir fabric, and hand sewed the peignoir ruffle collar to the areas of the cups that would be exposed. My shelf bra was made by taking the bodice pieces to slightly below the bust area. I used a thin, lycra poly knit and added a 1″ elastic band, cut 1″ short of my my BFF’s under bust measurement. I then added an elastic bra hook to the back.

shelf bust bra butterick 5882

I sewed the top of the shelf bra to my main fabric like a would a lining, leaving the center back unattached. Once all was placed together, and my zipper was placed, I then hand sewed my bottom bust ruffle trim, securing the outside dress to the bra cups to prevent separation of the pieces while in wear

One additional change was that I changed the arm straps into a halter.

I could not be happier with the end result, and my BFF was gorgeous!!

susan cha cha 1

susan cha cha 2

This is my first post to We Sew Retro, although I have followed for quite a while. Hopefully, this method may be helpful to some, and inspirational to others!

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Blouses | Modern Patterns | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

Two Peasant Tops… and a Partridge in a Pear Tree??

By on July 18, 2015

My title has absolutely nothing to do with Christmas… just saying. When I typed Two Peasant Tops, that’s what followed in my head. I know, I know, I’ve got problems.

But that’s not why you’re here… is it? Hopefully you’re here to see what I’ve been sewing! I got a chance today during little girl’s long afternoon nap to snap some photos of some finished projects (five to be exact, look for the rest coming soon) and I’m excited to post them for you!
A couple of weeks ago, while binge watching Miss Fisher on Netflix, I whipped up two peasant tops.

I used #Simplicity8741 and slightly modified the lengths due to being just a bit short on fabric. Oops.

I made a black one, and a white one. Nothing fancy at all. Just a couple more basic separates to add to my closet.

Enough of my rambling, on to the good stuff!

Just a really simple bright white cotton peasant top. I’m wearing it here with my Unique Vintage Catch of The Day bottoms, a great pair of high-waist sailor style shorts. Perfect for summer, and totally worth the $15!

This top is slightly different than the white one, it has elastic along the bottom. I had to cut this length much shorter on this one, as I was really short on fabric. So this one is more of a crop top, but I have worn it tucked in to a circle skirt, with a belt, so it’s pretty versatile.

 I’m still trying to get comfortable wearing it as a crop top, but with the high-waist shorts it’s really quite flattering even with my mommy tummy. These high-waist shorts hide so much!

See more pictures of these two and get the construction details here on my blog, misskacysews!

Until next time!

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1950s | 1960s | Dresses | Mad Men Inspired | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

“Ray of Sunshine” Dress

By on July 7, 2015

Hello all!

I’ve recently completed what I’m naming my “Ray of Sunshine” dress (the reason why is in my blog post), which was redone from an old dress I’d made back in 2011. It’s made from Simplicity 1459, a reprint from what looks like an early sixties pattern, with a couple alterations.

IMG_0297 IMG_0285 IMG_0289 IMG_0273

More photos and details are up on my blog.

That’s it for now, until next time!

 

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1950s | Blouses | Modern Patterns | Shirts | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

A Slew of Seperates

By on June 30, 2015

I had a hugely productive weekend two weeks ago. I sewed up a trio of three quarter circle skirts assembly line style and a precious polka dotted peasant top.

I began working on a skirt for another project, (The Feathers) to be revealed at a later date. I decided that if I was going to do one, I should probably go ahead and do a couple of others I’ve been planning. I used #Simplicity1200.

This was my first attempt at side lapped zippers and I’m so pleased with how they turned out.

I also used self made bias for two of the skirt hems. Time consuming, but so worth it.

I had a lot of firsts that weekend!

I took a poll of my friends and coworkers and they overwhelmingly decided I should wear the cupcakes on Monday to work. Well, I got up Monday morning, and started looking through my closet for a top to match the skirt and just couldn’t find anything that I liked. Like you do. I then got the idea in my head that I needed a peasant top to go with it. I started rummaging through my fabric for something that would work. I came across some white cotton with yellow polka dots that I bought a while back and it was exactly what I wanted.

I sat down at 7:15am on Monday morning, and by 8:30 I had a brand new peasant top made from #Simplicity8741!

The finished outfit was just what I wanted it to be, you can see more about it here.

Needless to say, I’m thrilled with how all of these pieces turned out. I highly recommend that if you have several of the same pattern to make, do it assembly line style. It was so quick and easy to whip out three skirts. In the course of one weekend, I added three perfect summer skirts to my wardrobe. Next time I think I’ll do the same process with some more peasant tops!

Click the pictures to visit my blog for more about each skirt!

Cupcakes with Sprinkles
Purple Flowers

As always you can follow along with my sewing mis-adventures at www.misskacysews.com!

Thanks for reading!

blognametag

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1930s | 1940s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

Smooth Sailing Trousers – My First Pair of Pants!

By on May 31, 2015

After going through a phase of sewing nothing but knit dresses and T-shirts, I’m back with a very vintage-style garment! This is my first pair of pants, made from the Smooth Sailing Trousers pattern from Wearing History. Since I became interested in vintage styles, I’ve always loved 30’s/40’s style wide-leg trousers, and this pattern was exactly what I was looking for! It’s hard to see because the fabric is black, but there are pleats at the front, darts at the back, a side zipper, and optional cuffs, belt loop and belt. I made the version without cuffs, but with the belt loops. I skipped the belt, though, because I have a couple black belts already!

I cut a size 12 for the muslin and graded to a 14 at the hips, but ended up sizing up for a little more ease at the waist. I tweaked the fit a little though by keeping the darts, pleats and crotch curve from the size 12. I also shortened the pieces by 2″.

I used a bamboo rayon (not sure what to call it exactly) with nice drape, but it ended up being really shifty and stretchy on the bias after I washed it – it was originally very crisp and linen-like. It probably wasn’t ideal for these pants, because they’ve really stretched out and need re-hemming (possibly some other alterations too…).

The pattern is very simple to construct, perfect for someone new to making pants. The hardest part was working with the fabric! If they hadn’t stretched out so much, I would have been very happy with how they turned out. Right now, I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with them, but I’ve made anther pair and I can definitely say that I love the pattern and the style!

For more photos and construction details, check out my blog! I also wrote a detailed review of the pattern as a guest post on Sew Sweetness, if you want to know more about the pattern itself!

Oh, and I also made the blouse I’m wearing in these photos. It’s the Sewaholic Pendrell, made from a muumuu that I bought at a thrift store! Thanks for reading!

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1950s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Western Jeans (Butterick 5895 meets Advance 8341, c. 1957)

By on March 28, 2015

I’m a little bit obsessed with Butterick 5895 (Gertie’s pants) now that I’ve gotten the fit perfected – so I thought I’d try making a pair of western jeans (ranch pants) from the same pattern.

The inspiration was this pattern – Advance 8341, View 1 – Frontier Pants.

pants

I guessed what the pockets should look like from a pair of Freddies Jeans, and added them to the Butterick version (and lengthened the legs).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pockets turned out better than I hoped for! I’m specially proud of the button holes – my machine is 1950’s and it’s pretty hard to do a nice button hole.

The fabric is stretch denim, but it’s not super stretchy as it holds it’s shape really well.

There’s nothing I would change about these jeans – not one thing!

If you’re interested, I did a quick tutorial on my blog showing how to adjust your pants pattern to allow for a bigger booty or belly (and what the Butterick pattern looks like unmodified for curves).

Share the curvy love!

XXX

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1950s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers

Everyone loves a Bad Girl (Butterick 5895)

By on March 23, 2015

I feel really late to the party sewing up Gertie’s Butterick 5895 – better late than never though!

I’d wanted a pair of 1950s fitted pants for ages, but wasnt sure a bigger gal like me could pull them off – I was so wrong!

With a few mods (full list on my blog) to make adjustments for a big booty and large calves, they fit perfectly.

I used a stretch cotton chino (had it for 10 years in my stash) and would recommend using a heavier weight stretch cotton so it won’t hug your bumps and lumps.

Verdict – perfection! I need these in ankle length, in demin, and in novelty prints! I can also see these pants being the basis for little shorts, and maybe even a playsuit.

Bigger girls – definitely add these to your sewing list! xxx

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