1940s | 1950s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Colette Patterns, Penny Dress

By on October 27, 2017
Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

Modern with retro flair! The Colette Penny was my last summer hoorah before I transitioned over to Fall and Winter pieces.

Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

This particular October in San Francisco has been super warm, so I’ve gotten the opportunity to wear this dress more frequently than I anticipated!

 

Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

The vintage-inspired selling points for me were the following:

  • The cummerbund (super 50s and I love how it looks like my waist is smaller than it is haha!)
  • The A-line skirt (flattering and very 40s in its simplicity)
  • Buttons all the way to the top (very vintage-office-chic)

 

Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

The change I would probably recommend right off the bat is…

to add hooks, rather than snaps, to the cummerbund “belt”, especially since it ends right where your arm might pop off the belt (having the hooks there just makes more sense to me, anyway!)

More detailed photos, including a How to Sew video over on my website. 

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Dresses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Rayon Hawaiian Pake Muu for me!

By on October 26, 2017

Something I’ve always wanted, and have never sewn up is a Pake Muu.

Pake Muus were made popular by Alred Shaheen in the 1940s to 1950s, and I’ve always wanted one of my own.

I ended up modding Simplicity 8244 quite a bit (including adding sleeves and cutting the front on a fold). You can read about the complete list here on my blog.

The fabric is a beautiful cold rayon that I picked up in Hawaii earlier this year. I went through and used white rayon as the contrast like a traditional Pake Muu.

I’ll definitely be making more of these!

 

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1940s | Blouses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Gertie Keyhole Blouse, New Book for Better Sewing

By on September 26, 2017
Gertie Keyhole Blouse, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

Hello, everyone!

Long time since I’ve shared a project on here, but I haven’t been sewing too much lately 😣

Anyway, the last thing I worked on was the Gertie Keyhole blouse from the New Book for Better Sewing.

Gertie Keyhole Blouse, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

The pattern itself requires some pattern drafting!

It was a transformation from the Bow Tie blouse from the same book.

Essentially, you have to move the bust dart to the shoulder, and gather the shoulder for a cute rusching detail.

 

Gertie Keyhole Blouse, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

Five rows of gathers, and a keyhole cut out from the neckline- super 40s!

 

Gertie Keyhole Blouse, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

Absolutely LOVE how it came out– I’ve worn it at least once a week since I made it haha!

 

Anyway, more photos including a sewing tutorial (!!) over on my website.

All in all 10/10 in terms of how much I love it 😎

(Definitely recommend it for daily use! I wanna remake this in some yummy silks!)

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1930s | 1940s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Modern & Vintage

By on August 30, 2017

This Dress was a long time coming.  I started working on it in November of last year. Originally, I intended to make it from a wool crepe and that the red rayon would be a wearable muslin.  Using the Colette Patterns Oolong Dress pattern (purchased for 1/2 price, when they were discontinuing the pattern), I decided to make one modification – add godets to the skirt in the princess seams to give it a little flip and flare.  That version was not so exciting, in fact, I was so disappointed with the fit,  I put the dress back on rack to wait for some inspiration or divine intervention, whichever came first.

 

Earlier this summer I needed a dress to wear to a tropical themed Art Deco party, so I pulled the dress and pattern out of storage and decided to see what I could do.  Necessity is the mother of invention, right?  Well I ended up combining 3 patterns to make this one look – the Colette Oolong, Colette Parfait and the 1930s Ladies Afternoon Tea Frock – Reproduction Sewing Pattern #T3221 from Vintage Pattern Lending Library.

Here is a closeup of the finished dress!
And a view from the back

In the end, I’m pretty happy with the results.  I don’t think I will make it up again, but If I did, I would fit the skirt a bit differently and make the godets come up higher.  I’ve worn it twice now – once to the tropical event and once to a local production of Castle Happy, a play about William Randolf Hearst and Family.

If you are interested in seeing HOW I worked with the fitting and the patterns, visit my Blog for the full post.

Until Next Time….Happy Sewing!

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1950s | Modern Patterns | Skirts

A Retro Gertie Butterick B6285

By on July 30, 2017

This skirt was almost the death of me! But it’s finished and I love it and I want to make more and more and more and… you get the idea.

This pattern is quite gorgeous. Mine is made from a heavy cotton sateen from Spotlight in the most vibrant red and black.

Pockets. Can life get any sweeter?

 

 

It was paired with a black eBay petticoat which is a bit scratchy, hence the slip underneath that. It was toasty warm and certainly made my Monday much more agreeable.

Those with a keen eye will notice the slash neck top is the Gable Top by Jennifer Lauren Handmade. It’s such a great staple top and I’ve been making more of them over the weekend.

Swing and/or twirl around to my blog to read the story of the skirt.

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1950s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Butterick 6453, Spring Jenny Dress

By on May 23, 2017
Patterns by Gertie Butterick 6453, View A | Vintage on Tap

 

I’m ready for all the summer dresses!

I hope you guys have already found your favorite summer sewing pattern to whip up tons of sundresses!

Butterick 6453, Gertie Sew Along | Vintage on Tap

Patterns by Gertie Butterick 6453, View A | Vintage on Tap

Making this dress was definitely quite a journey.

I broke down the entire process, from fitting to completed garment, in a bunch of videos, which really allowed me to take my time and make this dress right. The video series was a total of 5 videos long.

Butterick B6453, View B | Vintage on Tap

Butterick B6453, Sewing Pattern | Vintage on Tap

Did I love this pattern? Absolutely.

Midway through writing this post I went ahead and browsed Etsy for more fabric. View A (the yellow tulip dress) is tooooootally where my heart is at right now and I love how similar the design is to Pinup Girl Clothing’s Jenny Dress.

Overall, the garment was super simple to construct, but of course the trickiest part was doing a full bust adjustment on a princess seam. It turned out really well, though, and wouldn’t be afraid to tackle it again in the future.

Vintage on Tap, Butterick 6453

To view the full photoshoot, including all my sewing notes, check out my blog.

To watch the Sew Along video series (including fitting videos), head on over to YouTube. 

 

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