1970s | 1980s | Blouses | Children | Dresses | Jackets | Jumpers / Pinafores | Rompers / Playsuits | Shirts | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

Vintage Patterns, 70s, 80s, 90s

By on November 22, 2014

I’ve been searching Craigslist for sewing notions, patterns, and fabric, and yesterday I made a huge find!  For $20, I purchased over 150 vintage patterns from the 70s, 80s, and 90s.

It’s been a lot of fun going through the patterns.  There’s a good selection of 70s and 80s dresses, women’s suits (pants/skirts/blouse/blazer combos), and skirts, as well as adorable little girls’ dresses.

 

Happy vintage sewing!

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1950s | Jackets | Vintage Sewing

The New Look Suit

By on November 15, 2014

A very, very long project has reached its end, and a couple of weeks ago my suit and I walked the streets of Paris. My inspiration is the 1950’s, Christian Dior and the New Look.

StinaP New Look suit

StinaP New Look suitThe suit is in black wool crêpe and lined in emerald green viscose. The buttons are vintage (from France!). The deep shawl collar and padded peplum are hand worked, as are the buttonholes and the lining.

StinaP New Look suit shawl collarStinaP New Look suit peplumI’ve used lots of suits from the era as inspiration for the design, and the pattern was drafted by myself and my teacher. I’ve used multiple resources to find the best way to make it, the vintage way so to speak. You can of course read all about it on my blog!

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1910s | Blouses | Jackets | Skirts

Simplicity 9723 With a Twist

By on October 10, 2014

9723Simplicity 9723 is an approximate 1900’s based stage costume pattern. A friend is having an old West themed Halloween party and my plans to make this and go as a school marm were set.

Unfortunately (fortunately?) when I went to the fabric store, my mind started wandering. Add in that the theme of the party was subtly changed to “post-apocalyptic old West” and I started looking at more fun fabrics than I had originally planned. Somehow that landed me in the section with the pleathers and other odd-ball fabrics I just don’t use.

An hour later I came out of the fabric store a lot poorer, and with almost 20 yards of fabric. I actually over-bought on two of my fabric choices by a total of about 2.5 yards because this pattern is not terribly clear on the allowances concerning the changes I planned on making.

Still, better to over-buy than to not have enough, right?

This pattern calls for the blouse and skirt to be made as one piece, which I did not want to do. It also calls for a lot of trims and laces added, only one of which I used- the collar. After making all my changes and adjustments, I’m really pleased with the outcome and the jacket is so wild!

The ruffles on the petticoat caused me some grief and I had to pleat the skirt rather then gather it because it just would not pull along my gathering threads, but otherwise I feel really good about it. Stop by my blog at Deb’s In Stitches and see more about what I did.

The site seems to be having a loading issue with some images right now- if the pictures of my finished project aren’t loading, please click thru to my blog!

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1940s | Coats | Jackets

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #15: The Great Outdoors

By on September 13, 2014

For my second entry for the Great Outdoors challenge I made a red wool version of Simplicity 4366.

I love Ike jackets and I wanted one of my own for a while but then I found the red wool and decided that I would pay homage to the Ike jacket but make it my own. I have to give credit to Tasha from By Gum By Golly for starting the sewing bug for the jacket. Tahsa made a great 1940’s jacket for Rochelle’s Sew for Victory last year (2013) in a wonderful green fabric. From the moment I saw the jacket I knew I had to make one and here it is. The shoulders are gathered into a yoke and the waist of the jacket is gathered into a waistband. The sleeves are gathered at the wrist and finished with a cuff that buttons. The buttons are self covered and the red wool cooperated in waves that Murphy’s buttons couldn’t dream of doing. Oh and I swear the fabric is red the camera appears to have made it a bit pink.

The pattern called for self made shoulder pads but instead of stuffing them I used two layers of crinoline. The crinoline made the jackets shoulders keep their shape but don’t make me look like a linebacker (which I appreciate). The Jacket is also fully lined; the pattern didn’t call for it but I knew I wanted it lined because of the wool. I had to adjust the facing piece because of the change but that was a quick fix. For all of the buttonholes I used my grandmothers Singer 9134 which is cranky but works most of the time. I added the pockets to the front, they’re from Colette Pattern’s blog Coletterie and can be found here. For attaching the pockets I had to wing it since I don’t have the original Colette pattern the pockets actually go to.

The Scoop:

Fabric: Red Tango Wool and Medieval Blue Lining
Pattern: Simplicity 4366
Year: 1940’s if anyone knows the specific date I would be grateful
Notions: 9 self covered buttons
First worn?: Only around the house, it’s not cool enough outside to wear wool
Make again?: Yes but the peplum version in green corduroy with flannel lining
Total cost: Pattern $12 but I’ll say $6 because there’s a skirt pattern with the jacket, Wool Fabric $19.24, Lining $9.98, Self Covered Button Kit $5.99 so total $41.21

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1950s | Jackets | Mens | Vintage Sewing

1950s suit jacket – first step in tailoring process – Leachway pattern

By on May 1, 2014

Hello everyone!

I would like to present you the latest big work I am working on : a 1950s suit jacket! It is based on a vintage british jacket I bought on ebay :

I only made the muslin for now, modified the pattern and chose the fabrics! I also read a lot about the traditional interlining and structure of a suit. Now I can’t wait to start sewing it! 🙂

If any of you have any advices for me for this kind of work, I would be very happy to read them!! 🙂

If you want to see more about this project, come and visit my blog 🙂

Thanks for reading!!

 

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1950s | Jackets | Skirts

Retro Restyle: Felix and Val’s Jacket

By on April 9, 2014
Hoffman Construction Co
Felix and Val's

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I picked up this old wool club jacket at an estate sale a few months ago.  The back embroidery was fabulous even though the coat was moth-eaten and very worn.

McCalls 4161

I used McCalls 4161 coat pattern from the 1940s as a starting point to sew up a jacket that actually fit me.  I cut as much as I could from the original navy wool and added a brown plaid to compliment (and of course I needed a matching skirt).

Finally some Spring sunshine in Wisconsin!
pockets mimick the shoulder lapels
elbow patches were my hubby's idea

I love sewing with wool and plaids are definitely my favorite!  Working with this heavy club jacket was a bit tricky though.  The navy wool is so thick and dense, it was tough to bend and roll the seams.  My finishing work on the inside isn’t as pretty as I’d like it to be because I couldn’t roll the salvage edges under.  It was just too bulky.  I also gave up on hand-stitching the cuffs and bottom waistband.  Again, too bulky.  So instead I did some extra top-stitching to really nail the wool flat where several layers met.  More photos and sewing details are on my blog.  And just in case you’re wondering, the construction behind me is a new ram barn.   The old barn had holes in the roof and cracks in the walls.   Seemed an appropriate place to take pics given Felix and Val’s profession.

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1930s | 1950s | Accessories | Hats | Jackets | Skirts

A sporty look, and the second chapter in my wool skirt saga.

By on February 28, 2014

The second skirt in my Pendleton quartet is another plaid number. This one is fairly plain as well, with some simple alterations made to change the look up a bit. I widened the waistband and added suspenders. I’ve always really liked the look of the suspender skirt (whether from the 1910s or the 1950s or anywhere in between), and have intended to make myself one for a long time now. I thought it would be a nice silhouette with this plaid also, simple enough to showcase the pattern, but not so overly simplified as to be boring. This piece of wool had just a few moth holes that needed repair, so I set myself to work at re-weaving again. This is a much finer weave than the previous fabric, so it required a little more precision, but it really wasn’t too bad. I have to admit, I think I’m actually getting a little hooked on it. It’s just the kind of insanely meticulous work I find fun and relaxing (’cause maybe I’m a little nuts).

 

After pulling threads from a scrap of the plaid, I set to work reweaving the two holes in the skirt front, and then the two in the suspender pieces.

 

Doing this made me feel a little bit like the woman who made Chanel’s braided trim for decades (although not old, French, and incredibly skilled).

 

You can see the first hole mid-repair just to the right of the pin.

The skirt turned out pretty well, and I had just enough left of the fabric to make a matching hat (because every outfit should have a matching hat, right?). Anyway, I used the Wearing History Sporty Toppers pattern, view 1. I was working with scraps, so the plaid doesn’t match perfectly on top, but it doesn’t bother me too much since there is so much seaming to break it up in the first place. I used a slightly narrower ribbon than called for in the pattern, but I like how it looks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To complete my sort of “golf-course” couture look, I managed to finally finish one of my biggest UFOs; this brown wool suit jacket. I started this suit about three years ago, finished the skirt, got about half way through the jacket and then put it on the back burner and left it there to stew. It feels really good to finally have it finished and out of the project pile. It’s far from perfect, but finished it all I was really aiming for at this point, so I’m happy with it. I don’t have all the pattern details in front of me, but I’ll try and dig them up. I’m pretty sure it’s a McCall’s pattern, and it’s from the 50s, but I’m not sure the exact year and can’t remember the number. Anyway, here’s the ensemble all put together and ready for a stroll across the fairway. (Both pieces need a little touch up with the iron).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, that’s that. Now on to other projects in the queue. I’ve still got two of the wool skirts to put together, and then numerous other summery projects to start, but I’ve got an Edwardian event to go to in early May that I also have to make some stuff for, and that will probably take precedence. Hope everyone has had a good week!

 

-Evie

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