Jackets

Hello, here I am again. I’ve been neglecting my blog and online presence for too long now, but I have been sewing quite a bit, in my defense – and also put myself on a very healthy ban on frantic last-minute sewing of overly ambitious party outfits. My stress levels are down (slightly) and my nerves are thanking me.

I’ve been making a lot of things lately, several everyday garments that I need quite badly, but this is the one I’m the most pleased with; a wool/poly gabardine jacket inspired by Steirer jackets and German and Austrian traditional costumes in general, with leather oak leaf appliqués, abstract bakelite acorn buttons and a pleated, skirted back, the cut nicked from a late 1940′s jacket that I have loved almost to pieces.

The original sketch made three years ago or so, when I got the fabric.

It’s been in the pipeline for several years, in other words, but I’m glad I waited.

Front and back panels sewn together, interfaced with horsehair canvas, wool and a heavy linen canvas at the front shoulder, with pockets nearly done.

It has bound pockets with the leather oak leaves applied after the pocket was practically finished, but before I closed up the pocket bag. The whole process of figuring out the best order in which to do the pocket and appliqué steps to create fully functional pockets with the appliqué took a bit of frustrating trial and error. I added top-stitched leaf veining after some consideration – it felt like an idea that might go spectacularly wrong, even with a teflon foot, but it actually turned out quite well.

Fitting process. The back came together beautifully at once, the front took a lot of fine-tuning.

I added a lot (a LOT) of extra hair canvas and wool fabric pieces to the body of the interfacing here and there around the bust and front of the shoulder to get the pocket to lie reasonably smoothly, for instance, and get a nice, smooth shape. It was worth it, and I highly recommend spending some time fiddling around with stiffening, shaping and filling out the silhouette like that if you have the time. I certainly will. Also added horsehair braid along the hemline, from the side pleats in the back, around the curve in front and up to the waist. Also worth it.

SO worth it.

The finished jacket, with a peaked cap in the same fabric and a new skirt with scalloped button edge.

The back is my favourite part of the garment.

Right, and I did leather-bound buttonholes on the sleeves, with leather that is not what you’d call thin or supple. That may have been one of the worst ideas I’ve ever had. They look pretty awful up close, but not half as awful as making them was. I wanted to do that on the rest of the jacket as well, but no. Just no.

I’ve been wearing it constantly for several weeks now. Very happy with this one.

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I did it! I made me a vintage style jacket! And not any jacket! A 1940s bad girl one!

To be exact, it’s a windbreaker jacket. I used the McCall 6360 pattern, red sued and beige lining.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made a muslin first, and had to increase lenght of sleeves and neck-to-waist.

And I finally went to the final fabric. I had some troubles with my sewing machine and the thickness of the many layers of suede sometimes. (especially for buttonholes!) . I mostly sewed the lining with machine, and it was really faster!

I LOVE it! It will become one of my most worn jacket for sure!!

And you, have you ever sewn a jacket ? I would love to see your projects!

I think I took enough room on we sew retro, so

if you want more informations and pictures, come on my blog! :D

Thanks for reading!

 

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I took the last week off to have time for another sewing project and decided to tackle this wonderful victorian era inspired steampunk costume, consisting of jacket, skirt and bustle. I bought dark green dupioni silk in Brussels at Maison des Tissus and beige lace at Maison dorée a few weeks ago (I forgot to take the pattern with me then and was so lucky to have bought just enough of both!). The pattern is incredible – it was the first time for me that all patterns parts matched perfectly (and I am always very careful with cutting them out) and the instructions were easy to follow.  I decided to shorten the skirt to make the costume a bit more suitable for daily wear and I will probably take it in a bit but I changed nothing else. I am very happy with the finished costume and am eager to wear it soon again (-:

See a few more pictures on my blog, Draped in Cloudlets.

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Continuing on in my attempt at a 1940′s wearable wardrobe – the ubiquitous 1940′s Lumber Jacket!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Really very happy with how this turned out (and really happy its stopped raining long enough so I can take photos)!

I used Simplicity 1535 (view 1) and black gaberdine.

The sleeves are full and glamorous, and the nipped waist is really flattering. Did I mention the pattern was easy to sew as well?

My favourite element would be the pointed cuffs, so very cute.

 

It was also sunny enough to take photos of Simplicity 1692 – View A.

While the jacket was made pretty much to-pattern, this one was modified to death. A full list is on my blog, but the main pattern change was to make the blouse back-buttoning like a traditional 1940′s blouse pattern.

I didn’t realise the pattern was a pull-over at first, and I don’t think the amount of ease called for was very flattering for an already plus-sized girl! I would definitely make this pattern again though, it’s great novelty print stash buster and the gathered neckline is really sweet.

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