1940s | 1950s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Colette Patterns, Penny Dress

By on October 27, 2017
Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

Modern with retro flair! The Colette Penny was my last summer hoorah before I transitioned over to Fall and Winter pieces.

Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

This particular October in San Francisco has been super warm, so I’ve gotten the opportunity to wear this dress more frequently than I anticipated!

 

Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

The vintage-inspired selling points for me were the following:

  • The cummerbund (super 50s and I love how it looks like my waist is smaller than it is haha!)
  • The A-line skirt (flattering and very 40s in its simplicity)
  • Buttons all the way to the top (very vintage-office-chic)

 

Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

The change I would probably recommend right off the bat is…

to add hooks, rather than snaps, to the cummerbund “belt”, especially since it ends right where your arm might pop off the belt (having the hooks there just makes more sense to me, anyway!)

More detailed photos, including a How to Sew video over on my website. 

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Dresses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Rayon Hawaiian Pake Muu for me!

By on October 26, 2017

Something I’ve always wanted, and have never sewn up is a Pake Muu.

Pake Muus were made popular by Alred Shaheen in the 1940s to 1950s, and I’ve always wanted one of my own.

I ended up modding Simplicity 8244 quite a bit (including adding sleeves and cutting the front on a fold). You can read about the complete list here on my blog.

The fabric is a beautiful cold rayon that I picked up in Hawaii earlier this year. I went through and used white rayon as the contrast like a traditional Pake Muu.

I’ll definitely be making more of these!

 

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1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

1940s Organic Cotton Gingham Dress

By on October 12, 2017

5955 McCall sewing pattern, 1946

After watching the brilliant documentary The True Cost, about the human and environmental impact of fast fashion, I decided to try and make a completely ethically-produced dress. I chose to make it using an original sewing pattern from 1946 that I had won in a competition on the Vintage Sewing Pattern Nerds Facebook group. It’s a little later than my usual style dress (1930s to early 40s) but, as it looked like it could easily be from the late 1930s, I decided to go for it.

1940s organic gingham dress

The fabric I used was 100% organic cotton gingham from the Organic Textile Company. They produce this beautiful soft cotton in two different sizes and both in three different colours, red, blue and black. As I loved both sizes so much I chose to use both in red and use the smaller one on the bias. Of course, each of the pieces I cut in this way had to be stabilised with straight cut facings.

1940s organic gingham cotton dress

All of the trimmings I used were either vintage pieces or items I already owned, even the ivory cotton thread I used to sew the dress up. This all adds up to an almost totally ethically made garment. However, there is one thing I did have to buy new, and it wasn’t organic or ethically-produced, so I can’t quite say this dress is 100% ethical.

Head on over to my blog to find out what this item was and, if you want to know more about why it isn’t ethical, have a read of the comments at the end of the post.

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1950s | Accessories | Dresses | Jackets | Vintage Sewing

Hommage to Audrey Hepburn – Chic in late 50s

By on October 1, 2017

Hello everyone
This is my first time posting here.
Therefore I’d like to introduce myself shortly: I am 23, live in the heart of Switzerland and started sewing about 2 years ago. With my mom and sister I blog at PeterSilie&Co – you are of course welcome to visit us.

Vintage Dress Beyer Mode, PeterSilie&Co, 60s
Just like you, I love to sew vintage sewing patterns. Just sometimes it is really frustrating. It can take forever to recreate a vintage sewing pattern. So, when I spotted this pattern, I knew this would be an easy to sew dress.

And because I am ambitious and the dress alone would be to easy to sew, I decided to make a matching jacket. For the jacket I used a pattern, I’ve sewn before from Neuer Schnitt 1962.
The dress was quite easy to make. But of course I had to change the darts – they were way to high. And it took some time to pleat the skirt in the perfect way to match with the bodice.
Because I made the jacket the second time, I didn’t have to make any changes. Due to the fact, that I wanted to wear the jacket with other dresses as well, the jacket is black. The plaid is only on the inside, so I can always decide, if I want to show the plaid (or not).
But my highlight of the look are the belts. At first I thought that it is just a long belt wrapped around the waist several times. Instead the fabric is draped. The instructions were very short (as usual) and I just made them up on the go. And I love, love, love the outcome. (I even wrote a little tutorial: Right now only in German, but if google translator is not working out for you, let me know.) But the blogpost about the dress is now available in english.
If you wish to see more swoon worthy pictures, you can hop over to our blog PeterSilie&Co – and yes, the shooting was definitely Audrey Hepburn inspired.
I only wish, I would have written more text (to be able to show more photographs).
Till next time

Sabine

Vintage Plaid dress, Beyer Mode PeterSilie&Co

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1970s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

Seventies Stripes (Simplicity 5497)

By on September 11, 2017

 

 

 

I made up this 1970s era dress because I’m fond of the contrasting white collar and cuffs.  Overall I’m very pleased with how it turned out: it fits well, is comfortable to wear, and was inexpensive to make, since I bought the fabric for less than a dollar a yard at Michael Levine’s Loft in the fabric district in Los Angeles, and the buttons on the cuffs were bought at the thrift store.  My only changes were to leave off the waist-ties so it will be easier to wear with cardigans and jackets when the weather finally cools off, and to lengthen and widen the skirt to be more comfortable to wear and walk in.

For more photos and details, please visit the sewing blog that I share with my husband: Mr and Mrs Rat

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1930s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

1930s Print Quilting Cotton Dress

By on September 7, 2017

1930s feedsack print dress

As a 1930s obsessive I’m often drawn to the beautiful 1930s reproduction prints on quilting cotton fabric. However, I’ve always been weary of it because of its stiffness and just knew it wouldn’t be right for the style of clothing I love to make. Genuine 1930s dresses were always made using a softer fabric with plenty of drape, whether it be cotton, linen, rayon, silk or wool, which always hung well.

However, when I came across this amazing feedsack reproduction print I just couldn’t resist it. I knew straight away that I wanted to make a Dust Bowl style dress with it, despite knowing it was going to be challenge.

I used an original pattern from the very early 1930s and, although it was my size, I did have to make quite a lot of adjustments. The main issue was the way it fitted due to the stiffness of the fabric and there was too much bulk everywhere. If it had been made in a much softer fabric, this would’ve gathered perfectly around the waist when the belt was added.

1930s feedsack print dress

For more information about the troubles I had with the fit of this dress, please have a read of my post here. However, if you’d just like to skip to the outfit post to see all of the lovely 1930s detailing and find out more about Dust Bowl dresses, then you can view the post here.

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1930s | 1940s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Modern & Vintage

By on August 30, 2017

This Dress was a long time coming.  I started working on it in November of last year. Originally, I intended to make it from a wool crepe and that the red rayon would be a wearable muslin.  Using the Colette Patterns Oolong Dress pattern (purchased for 1/2 price, when they were discontinuing the pattern), I decided to make one modification – add godets to the skirt in the princess seams to give it a little flip and flare.  That version was not so exciting, in fact, I was so disappointed with the fit,  I put the dress back on rack to wait for some inspiration or divine intervention, whichever came first.

 

Earlier this summer I needed a dress to wear to a tropical themed Art Deco party, so I pulled the dress and pattern out of storage and decided to see what I could do.  Necessity is the mother of invention, right?  Well I ended up combining 3 patterns to make this one look – the Colette Oolong, Colette Parfait and the 1930s Ladies Afternoon Tea Frock – Reproduction Sewing Pattern #T3221 from Vintage Pattern Lending Library.

Here is a closeup of the finished dress!
And a view from the back

In the end, I’m pretty happy with the results.  I don’t think I will make it up again, but If I did, I would fit the skirt a bit differently and make the godets come up higher.  I’ve worn it twice now – once to the tropical event and once to a local production of Castle Happy, a play about William Randolf Hearst and Family.

If you are interested in seeing HOW I worked with the fitting and the patterns, visit my Blog for the full post.

Until Next Time….Happy Sewing!

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