Coats

Vintage raincoat

by Handmade Jane on February 7, 2014 · 6 comments

in 1970s,Coats

 

This is a raincoat I made using a vintage Simplicity pattern (5928) from 1973.

The pattern isn’t specifically for a raincoat – it’s for a tailored coat – but I liked the shape so much I adapted it for my purposes. The coat has some lovely features such as princess seams and in-seam pockets, and has a great flounce about it because of the exaggerated A-line shape.

I shortened it by 4 inches (I’m short and wanted it to be knee length) and had to change the sleeves from two piece to one piece as I just couldn’t get them to set in properly. I used a coated navy waterproof fabric for the main coat and a red floral vintage satin for the lining. It did take me a while to finish it and there were a few hiccups along the way, but the results are worth it – I love it and I’m sure this will be getting a LOT of wear in the rainy UK! More construction details and photos can be found on my blog - Handmade Jane. x


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So here’s a modern take on a military-esque jacket with a mod twist that I just finished:

Back in 2008, I made a group of 5 jacket patterns with my original intent to sell them on Etsy and this was one of the jackets I made almost completely with the exception of buttonholes and sewn on buttons. I had a point in my life where I decided that I wasn’t any good at all with fashion design and I should quit. So…. I kinda did. This was one of the last things I didn’t finish until this past week. (I think maybe I was afraid of the buttonholer?) I tried it on a few months ago and my boyfriend asked me where I bought it. Umm….     So after that, he encouraged me to finish it.

(Note: I want to use a “click to read more” sort of link right here, but I’m having trouble with the code. This may get edited later!)

The jacket is  far cooler than I ever thought it was!

It’s all-denim and I used all green top-stitching thread.

Back view.

Ta daaaaa!

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I’ve been working on this early 60s coat for awhile and I finished the hand stitching this weekend.

Initially it had a collar but I didn’t have enough fabric to make a full front facing so off came the collar!

The fit is similar to the 50s style car coats – it’s shapeless and only has 2 small darts at the back to stop it looking too sack like. The pattern I used was Butterick 2624 (1-2-3 Shift!)

[click to continue…]

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Hi Sew Retro community! I just finished this winter coat from McCall’s 5717 and even though it’s a modern pattern I modified it a bit to give the coat a more classic look. I really love mid-20th century coats that extended down to below the knee to cover dresses, and that’s what I tried to achieve here by lengthening the skirt of the original pattern.

Here are some views of the coat taken at Lincoln Center here in New York.

I was really excited about trying my hand at tailoring! There’s a whole lot of pad-stitching, hair canvas, and fusible interfacing in this coat. Rather than follow the pattern instruction, I walked myself through the process with the book Tailoring. 

I used a size 10 at the bodice and size 12 at the waist/hip. The nice thing about this pattern is there are pattern pieces for A/B, C and D cups! The fabric is Italian herringbone wool from Gorgeous Fabrics and a flannel-backed satin lining from B&J Fabrics here in New York.

The lining was attached by hand with invisible stitches and the sleeve lining was attached with fell stitches using doubled up waxed silk thread. There’s a jump pleat at the bottom of the lining for ease and a center back pleat that’s held in place with feather-stitches at the top, waist, and hem. I added side seam pockets and belt loops to the pattern to hold the belt in place.

I also used 4 anchor buttons that were originally from a U.S. Navy pea coat (found on Etsy), which I based off my grandfather’s WWII version. Each button is backed with a flat black button on the other side of the facing in order to relieve stress on the fabric. I also decided to mirror the shape of the anchor in the way I threaded the button to the coat; it wasn’t until after the fact that I realized the thread kind of looks like rope!

I dedicated a bunch of blog posts to the making of this coat if you’re interested in seeing more of the process. You can also see the “reveal” post here: Sewin’ in the Rain

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