1950s | Blouses

Keyhole Neck Blouse

By on May 5, 2015

I recently used one of Vera Venus wonderful vintage inspired, free patterns again, this time the Keyhole Neck Blouse. I made it specifically to fit a vintage circle skirt that my boyfriend gave me 2 years ago and that I rarely wore because I had no matching top for it. I searched for the perfect blue in various fabric stores and finally found the right color. I really like Kimono sleeves and adore the three keyhole cutouts. I was a bit scared of sewing those but they were actually quite easy to make. I made the waist slightly smaller and lengthened the waist darts but apart from that I changed nothing. In order to fit my rather large head through the neck opening I didn’t close the back seam completely and attached a hook and eye closure. I was quite unsure of how to do this properly and even though it looks nice I will definitely consult a tutorial next time I attempt this. My friend came up with the idea to use some white lace on the neckline and sleeves and I really happy that both colors now have their counterparts in skirt and top. We made some pictures of the ensemble on a glorious spring evening some weeks ago, I love this time of the year so much and am very happy that it’s finally time for short sleeved tops again 🙂

There are some more images and details on my blog, Draped in Cloudlets.

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1940s | Blouses | Mildly Insane Photo | Vintage Sewing

Going Dotty for Spotty Cotton

By on April 28, 2015

1940's blouse made with Simplicity 1590 retro re-release | Lavender & Twill

Full 1940's look for autumn | Lavender & Twill 

Peplum details & box pleats from Simplicity 1590 | Lavender & Twill

Adore platform chunky heels & gloves for a perfect 1940's look | Lavender & Twill

Details of the fabric & buttons for my Simplicity 1590 make | Lavender & Twill

Simplicity 1590 sewn up out of quilting cotton | Lavender & Twill

Ohmygoodnessyouguys! I keep signing myself up for all these sewing challenges ~ and then I don’t know why I am doing this to myself!  (> o <)’

First it was the insane Sewing All The Things idea, then I saw A Stitching Odyssey’sVintage Sewing Pattern Pledge and of course I was all “Oooh! That looks like fun!” so I put my name down:

I, Bonita Vear of Lavender & Twill, pledge to sew at least five vintage or vintage reproduction patterns in 2015 ~ these MUST be patterns that I haven’t used before from my stash!”

Because that fits into my sewing schedule for 2015, right? But then I saw Rochelle’s Spring for Cotton group sew along annndddd ~ BAM! April’s plan for the Simplicity 2275 wrap dress flew out the window {also because I was in the middle of a top secret sewing project that took most of April to get done}.  Hello quick project! This fit in with Brittany’s 40s Fashion Calender challenge for February which I was behind with: sew a 1940’s blouse and turban.

So last Monday I went to Spotlight with a handy Christmas gift card {thank you Mom!} and tried to find the perfect cotton fabric to use for Simplicity 1590, a retro re-release of this simple, but cute 1940’s blouse with a peplum.

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~ I hadn’t made this one up yet, but I really liked View A and couldn’t wait to try it! ~

I found the perfect 100% cotton quilting fabric with a really nice ‘hand’ to it. It was soft, and it draped nicely, as well as having this fabulous vintage-looking print in the colours I wanted ~ navy and white.  Well, okay, I wanted navy, white, and red, and ended up with navy, cream, orange, and pink! But it was the closest to what I had pictured in my head and I knew it would suit this project perfectly.

Disaster struck when I reached the cutting counter ~ I needed 1.7 metres of my magical fabric and there was only a little over 1 metre left on the bolt!  Yikes!

The lady at the counter went to see if she could find some more of the fabric, or something similar, while I racked my brains to figure out how to make it work. I knew she wouldn’t find anything as I had already scoured the quilting fabric isle and sure enough, she came back empty handed.  I quickly whipped out my pattern pieces {which I had traced out onto Polytrace so that I didn’t have to cut the pattern tissue} and proceeded to lay my pattern out on the cutting counter!  It just fit ~ but I’d have to make something up for the peplum, which took about 70 centimetres of the 1.7m needed all by itself.

I decided to wing it because I had fallen for this spotty cotton ~ it was “The One” for this pattern ~ sewers, you know what I’m talking about!

It did work, although you’ll notice box pleats at the back of the peplum, rather than gathers. I had much less fabric in the peplum so there really wasn’t any way I was getting gathers out of it. And obviously, I had to nix the matching turban because that just wasn’t going to happen ~ but in the end, I did it!

I squeaked out a blouse that needed 1.7m of fabric from a piddley 1m and managed to fit in a matching vintage styled hair tie instead of the turban.  Which I am calling the “Vintage Bow Hair Tie” pattern. Original. (ง •̀_•́)ง

I think I can hail this 40s Fashion Calender/Spring for Cotton/Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge project as success ~ one 100% cotton blouse, sewn with 100% cotton thread, and a matching 100% cotton hair tie, also sewn with 100% cotton thread.  A little bit of tweaking here and there, and I couldn’t get 100% cotton buttons, but I’m okay with the ones I picked.   : P   Actually, more than okay, because I’m a little bit dotty over them too….  ❤ ❤ ❤ヽ(*⌒∇⌒*)ノ

The result is that I adore this blouse!  It will definitely be a staple in my wardrobe. All the stress is so worth it in that pivotal moment you see some gorgeous fabric slowly coming together then ~ POW! (ノ◕ヮ◕)ノ*:・゚✧ You have a new garment!

~ Project Details ~

  • Year: 2013 re-release of a 1940’s pattern
  • Pattern: Simplicity 1590
  • Fabric: 1 metre of DS Piccadilly Floral Spot 100% cotton quilting fabric in Navy, Cream, Orange and Pink ($11.89)
  • Notions: Five buttons with violet print on them ($5.00)
  • Time to complete: One week
  • Make again? Yes! I’m pretty sure I will. I love the neckline of this pattern, and it’s a really simple blouse to put together.  It’s fun.
  • Wear again? 100%!  I can see this blouse becoming quite a central piece to my 1940’s outfits. It’s easy to wear and I love the print, the colours, and the style. I’m so thrilled with how it turned out.
  • Total Cost:  $16.89 AUD

Have any of you sewn up Simplicity 1590?  Which version would you sew if you did?

xox,

bonita

༺ ♡ ༻

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1950s | Blouses | Dresses | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

50ies with an Asian touch

By on March 29, 2015

More or less ten years ago, my father gave me a Shalvar Kameez when he came back from a trip to Pakistan. Unfortunately it wasn’t my size and due to the lack of opportunities to wear such a garment in central Europe, altering it wasn’t ranging very high on my schedule.

When Tuppence Ha’Penny published a post on 50ies dresses inspired by indian Saris, I knew what I wanted my Shalwar Kameez to become.

But it took me until this year to finally start this project. I chose a 1955/6 Lutterloh-pattern, a blouse with a matching skirt. It fit without any alterations, I only changed the cut of the skirt a little, using the dupatta, the scarf, as a ruched bottom, the pattern was meant to be plain without the ruffled layer.

Waistband and collar are lined with fusible interfacing, the cotton fabric is very soft and not stiff enough without.

The blouse was made from the top (the kameez), the facings and the top part of the skirt from the trousers (the shalwar), the ruche as mentioned was the dupatta.

The fact that it consists of two parts enables me to wear it as seperates as well, I can well imagine the skirt with a plain white blouse or the blouse with high-waisted jeans.

To see more photos, including one “before”-pic, have a look at my blog, Parva sed apta.

Thank you for your attention,

ette

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1940s | Blouses | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

Hollywood Belted Blouse

By on March 27, 2015

On a recent trek to the antique store, I found a cache of vintage patterns! One of them was this lovely belted blouse from a 1940s Hollywood Pattern. It is such a lovely style, and the pattern is a cinch to make!

I made the yoke, collar, pocket contrast and belt out of a contrasting fabric. I lined the pocket so as to not have seams visible inside.

The pattern features a yoke that is topstitched onto the front and back bodice. I just love that way of sewing seams!

As cute as this style is, it just does not look very good on me. I’ve never been able to wear belted-blouse styles, and this unfortunately is no exception!

 The good part is, it looks beautiful on my mom! I’m happy to get to see my work on someone else, so I don’t really mind. 🙂

Have you ever made a belted blouse?

For more photos and details, hop over to my blog! Thank you!

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1950s | Blouses | Vintage Sewing

Simplicity 2475 – 1958 Maternity Top

By on March 6, 2015

I actually got this finished a week or so ago, but then I got sick (again) and we’ve had yet another snow storm since then so it’s still been a little crazy around here. This is my second project of the year, and the second installment in my sewing for the 2015 Vintage Pattern Pledge. It’s Simplicity 2475, which I was given in a large pattern stash (almost all children’s and maternity patterns) by a friend when I found out I was pregnant with my first.

1958 maternity sewing pattern Simplicity 2475

The pattern is from 1958, and after making a version of a similar top the first time around I knew I wanted to make myself another one. They’re super comfortable, and with a few more weeks of warm weather before this kiddo is born I wanted another lightweight top that wasn’t skin tight. This is yet another 100% stash buster as well! The fabric is from the massive stash my mom and I accumulated (and still resides at her house), the bias binding is left from finishing all the seams in my Robson Trench last year, and the buttons were from a huge button stash that a friend of mine inherited when her husband’s grandmother died.  I opted for view 2, but changed the welt pockets to patch pockets since this lawn is so light. I didn’t want the extra strain on the fabric and was also concerned about the pocket bags showing through badly. Forgive the weird light. With yet another 8+ inches of snow outside, the already odd lighting available in my house is even worse.

1958 maternity top

the front curves of the yoke don’t match perfectly, as the fabric was kind of a pain and I was tired when I was sewing, but for something I’m going to wear for 2 months I wasn’t super concerned about going back and trying to fix it.

Simplicity 2475

Simplicity 2475 Maternity Top 1958

The buttons, as I said, are some I got from a friend after she inherited a HUGE button stash. They’re really pretty little pearl shirt buttons. I’m not sure how old they are.

patch pockets in floral lawn 1958 maternity top

I’m really happy I decided to do patch pockets instead of welts. Not only were they much easier, but I like the little touch of green in the bias binding at the top. It helps break up the print a little bit. I’ve got a black and a pink pencil skirt I plan on wearing this with that both look cute, especially with a little sweater. I’m actually working on a wearable muslin of some maternity shorts out of leftover denim, but the front sections are doing something really weird because of the some bias pulling, so they’ve been put on the back burner for bit, but if I do get them finished they’ll look SUPER cute with this. So summery! I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this is the last real push of winter before spring arrives. We’ve got pretty good temps predicted for the coming week, which will be a relief, but if it gets super cold again after that I may have to hide under a rock. Hope everyone else is keeping warm!

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1940s | Blouses | Modern Patterns | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

Simplicity 1590

By on February 16, 2015

So Simplicity 1590 is finally finished! I chose View A and it’s been on my sewing table for the past two weeks completely finished but without buttons. I’m in love with this adorable top and it’s exactly what I need more of in my wardrobe. I was really unsure how I would feel about the peplum but I really like the way it looks now that everything is put together.

I was short on fabric so I had to do the front facing in solid white. *pouts* I hate doing that on a piece I plan to wear that isn’t a muslin. But in the end it turned out alright!

I got my overlocker/serger back up and running, after much fussing and fighting, and was able to finish the inside seams of this blouse as well! I’m so pleased with how much more professional and finished it looks. In fact I’m kicking myself in the pants for not getting it back up and running sooner. Oh, how many garments could have been saved and worn longer!

I actually got over my fear of the buttonhole with this project. The pattern only calls for five, but I decided I didn’t like the open flap at the bottom front of the peplum, so I added a sixth button. I honestly don’t’ know why they scare me so much, but I think I was just afraid to mess them up. My machine has an automatic buttonhole feature and I’m so in love with how easy it is to whip them up!

My new headless helper Millie gets her debut with this blouse also! So, everyone meet Millie, as in Thoroughly Modern! I love that song, it’s one of my favorite dance tunes, so I thought it would be the perfect name for her! I honestly don’t know how I’ve manged to sew anything worth a darn before having her assistance. It’s amazing!

I noticed that the front hem is longer on one side than the other. But it’s minor and totally fixable I believe. I also have a button that is slightly lower than it should be and it is puckering. Again, totally fixable.

Lastly, some up close and personal pictures.

I’m very pleased with how this blouse turned out and I’m really looking forward to wearing it once the subzero weather we are currently experiencing here in Central Ohio decides to go back to wherever it came from.

This completes the first of my Vintage Sewing Pledge 2015 makes! It’s also going toward my Wardrobe Architect Challenge for 2015 for making a capsule wardrobe (which, I’m admittedly quite behind on as things have been a bit hectic at home). I’ll have to remedy that quickly and get caught up. Perhaps this weekend.

Thanks for following along with that long post! Check me out at www.shessewbettie.blogspot.com and follow along on Instagram @misskacysews!

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1950s | Blouses | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

A Floral Blouse from Maudella 1326

By on February 11, 2015

Hi Everyone!!!

This is my first post here, so I hope you like it!

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The Pattern and Fabric (and a button that didn’t get used)

Here is my first sew for the 2015 Vintage Pattern Pledge, a pink floral blouse made from a vintage Maudella Pattern. The pattern I have is for a 36″ bust, so firstly I had to grade it up to 44″ bust to fit me. I usually have to grade up my vintage patterns as I have as they are so hard to find any where near my size.

Original V graded up Pattern
Original V graded up Pattern

The Fabric I used was a lovely piece of pink floral print cotton, gifted to me from a friend. This top will mostly be worn tucked in to skirts or pants, but it looks fine left out as well

Half made - tucked into some high waisted pants
Half made – tucked into some high waisted pants

I altered the pattern slightly, as I found the shoulders too wide for me.

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Having a glass of wine at the in-laws
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The sun was bright
Maudella
But the View is Magnificent

To see more about the construction of this blouse, you can read my blog post about it here.

Happy Retro Sewing!

Dixie O’Dare

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