1950s | 1960s | Blouses | Modern Patterns | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

That’s A Wrap! (vintage Simplicity 4130 Review + BONUS comparison to modern Butterick B6285)

By on March 14, 2016

Hi all! It’s been a long time since I’ve come onto We Sew Retro to look around and contribute, it’s good to be back.

S4130

I sewed up vintage Simplicity 4130 a while back and just got around to reviewing it. All in all, it was a great pattern to work with. I converted it to use a knit fabric, but a friend of mine sewed it up in woven and it turned out just as lovely. So it’s a versatile pattern as well! My favorite part is that it’s reversible!

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Since it’s so similar to Gertie’s new pattern Butterick B6285, I asked a blogger friend who’s used it, Christina of Gussets and Godets, for her thoughts, as it could be a convenient substitute if you can’t locate Simplicity 4130. Doesn’t Christina look cute? It’s a great match to the vintage pattern.

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Thoughts about working with Simplicity 4130 and more photos on the blog, thanks for stopping by!

 

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1920s | Blouses | Downton Abbey Inspired | Giveaway | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

1920s Silk Blouse and Pleated Skirt

By on March 11, 2016

After admiring everyone else’s achievements last year for A Stitching Odyssey’s Vintage Pledge I decided that this year I was going to join in. My own pledge was to challenge and push myself with my sewing. I’ve just finished my first outfit for the pledge, a 1920s silk blouse and pleated skirt. I created the pattern for the blouse by tracing around a simple silk top I already had and then making my own adjustments. The pattern for the skirt was McCall’s M7022 pleated skirt which I lengthened to a more suitable 1920s style.

1920s blouse, skirt and cloche hat

I used a beautiful Pre-Raphaelite inspired green and purple floral silk for the blouse which I bought from the fabulous ClothSpot and this was my first challenge. I’d never worked with silk before so was really, really nervous about starting it and I put it off for about four months. The Vintage Pledge was just what I needed to force myself to be brave and just get on with it. As it turned out there was nothing to worry about!

Pre-Raphaelite inspired silk fabric

I added vintage, probably early 20th Century, jet buttons to both the front of the blouse and at the side to close the band around the bottom.

1920s blouse, skirt and cloche hat

The skirt is in a black cotton twill that I dug out from my stash. I’m not overly happy with it, mainly because the fabric is all wrong for the style of skirt, it’s way too stiff. I’m not sure if I’ll try and adjust it or just make a different one.

If you would like to read more about how the whole outfit and see more photos feel free to pop over to my blog. And while you’re there why not check out my latest post where I’m running a giveaway of £40 to spend on fabrics at ClothSpot. (Giveaway ends midnight 20th March 2016)

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1950s | Blouses | Modern Patterns | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

Butterick 6217 – The Gertie Top

By on September 10, 2015

#Butterick6217 – This was such a great pattern, quick to sew up and the fit turned out great, and is very flattering. I am planning to make both of the other versions. Seriously, I can’t rave enough about this pattern. Go buy it now! You won’t regret it!

For this one, I chose this red and white Swiss dot heavier weight quilting cotton I purchased at Wal-Mart for about $3/yd.

I was hesitant about the tie across the front. I wasn’t sure how it was going to lay or look, but once I got it put together and onto Millie I was in love! It’s such a fabulous detail!

The petal sleeves are a dream and as a sewist with large upper arms, I often have trouble fitting my upper arms into sleeves. I tend to sew a lot of sleeveless shirts because of this. This type of sleeve makes that problem non-existent.  My arms fit beautifully and I don’t get that claustrophobic panic attack feeling when trying to take it off and it gets stuck… Someone please tell me I’m not the only one that does this??

I serged all of my seams and finished the facing with lovely red bias trim. My serger threads seem to be a little on the loose side on that outer edge… not sure what is going on there. I’ll have to work on that.

This is definitely a favorite top. It goes great with skirts and pants. I feel sassy and awesome when I wear it!

The fit is great from the back. This is a heavier weight cotton and it hugs my curves nicely.

The petal sleeves are awesome, fits the arms nicely and shows off the tattoos!! I need more sleeves like this in my life.

All in all, this was a fantastic make. I sewed this up in a day. Totaling about 5-6 hours worth of work. I bought the pattern on sale at Jo-Ann’s during one of their Butterick 3 for $5 sales. The fabric cost me about $6 for two yards. What a crazy deal!! The total cost of this top, $7.70!! Those are the moments, that really make sewing my own clothes totally worth it!

This is #vintagepledge make number 11!!

Until next time! Find more of my projects at www.misskacysews.com!

 

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1950s | Blouses | Vintage Sewing

Baby Pink Novelty Print Halter Top – Advance 6394

By on September 8, 2015

I picked up a yard of this super cute ‘baby-print’ fabric at a thrift store, which was just enough to make this 1950s Advance halter top.

advance 6394 halter

The lining is an exact mirror of the outside design, so this is a great pattern if you are looking for a pattern that could also be reversible. I lined my print with a white cotton, and added white piping around the neckline and back.

 

advance 6394 halter close upadvance 6394 halter side

I added some boning to the sides for added structure and support. Also, the pattern called for three bound buttonholes. I think it calls for so few to fit with the coordinating skirt and shorts without adding too much bulk. Since I was not making these other garments (for now), I opted for five conventional buttonholes instead.

advance 6394 halter back

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1940s | Blouses

Simplicity 1692 – Blue Cherry Blossoms

By on July 21, 2015

Whew! Two posts in a few days. Being able to get several pieces photographed over the weekend, gave me a surplus of material to put up here for you!

I recently completed a second version of #Simplicity1692. You can see my first one here. This time I’m sewing View D, without the little ric-rac bow… I’m still thinking about going back and adding that, but I’m on the fence. What do you think? To Bow or Not To Bow?

I used a nice quilting cotton (because I lurve them so much!) in this pretty light blue and navy cherry blossom pattern. I also used a navy ric-rac to trim it out. *Sewists note… always check your trim for content and watch the temperature of your iron. I pressed this cotton shirt on the cotton setting, without realizing my ric-rac was some kind of synthetic. It got all melty on me. I may replace it, but honestly, you have to get REAL close to notice. And if you’re that close to me, you better be buying me dinner first. 😉

The construction was super straight-forward. The sleeves are cut in, so no setting them into the shirt. You literally just sew in the darts/tucks, front and back, put in the facing for the neckline and buttons on the shoulders and then sew front to back and turn and hem the sleeves and bottom. I love the button detail on the shoulders and I wish I had gotten a better picture of that part. I honestly didn’t even think about it when I was taking photos. (That’s what happens when you’re trying to get as much done as possible during the baby’s nap.) It is a really cute feature of the blouse.

I paired this with a navy pair of high-waist shorts. I believe they are Voodoo Vixen brand. All in all this blouse is very comfortable and easy to wear. Because I made it of cotton, it’s pretty cool and breezy on these hot summer days.

This blouse has a great fit. Especially through the back and shoulders, which is a recently discovered problem area for me. I’ll be posting more about that in the near future.

I really have no complaints about this top. As I said before, construction was a breeze and it went together very quickly. The fit is great, and flattering thanks to the front and back darts/tucks. This project cost less than $5 to complete. The pattern I bought on sale in a 5 for $5 Simplicity sale at Joann’s and the fabric is from their Quilter’s Showcase and it runs $4.49 a yard not on sale. I’m pretty sure I got this on sale. If not I used a 50% off coupon, so either way, I didn’t pay more that $2.50/yd and I bought two yards. The buttons and ric-rac were in my stash, so they didn’t cost anything to use.

This was #vintagepledge number 7 for me.

Thanks for reading, check out more on my blog at misskacysews.com!

Until next time!

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Blouses | Modern Patterns | Shirts | Vintage Sewing

Two Peasant Tops… and a Partridge in a Pear Tree??

By on July 18, 2015

My title has absolutely nothing to do with Christmas… just saying. When I typed Two Peasant Tops, that’s what followed in my head. I know, I know, I’ve got problems.

But that’s not why you’re here… is it? Hopefully you’re here to see what I’ve been sewing! I got a chance today during little girl’s long afternoon nap to snap some photos of some finished projects (five to be exact, look for the rest coming soon) and I’m excited to post them for you!
A couple of weeks ago, while binge watching Miss Fisher on Netflix, I whipped up two peasant tops.

I used #Simplicity8741 and slightly modified the lengths due to being just a bit short on fabric. Oops.

I made a black one, and a white one. Nothing fancy at all. Just a couple more basic separates to add to my closet.

Enough of my rambling, on to the good stuff!

Just a really simple bright white cotton peasant top. I’m wearing it here with my Unique Vintage Catch of The Day bottoms, a great pair of high-waist sailor style shorts. Perfect for summer, and totally worth the $15!

This top is slightly different than the white one, it has elastic along the bottom. I had to cut this length much shorter on this one, as I was really short on fabric. So this one is more of a crop top, but I have worn it tucked in to a circle skirt, with a belt, so it’s pretty versatile.

 I’m still trying to get comfortable wearing it as a crop top, but with the high-waist shorts it’s really quite flattering even with my mommy tummy. These high-waist shorts hide so much!

See more pictures of these two and get the construction details here on my blog, misskacysews!

Until next time!

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1940s | Blouses | Vintage Sewing

Adventures in Baby Cord – Simplicity 3688

By on July 15, 2015

A me-made 1940's look created with vintage patterns | Lavender & Twill

Color blocking fun - white, aubergine, grey and blue | Lavender & Twill

1940's vintage style | Lavender & Twill

Gum leaves, a beaded purse, and shoes with bows on them | Lavender & Twill

A daytime 1940's outfit with Simplicity 3688 | Lavender & Twill

Welp, as you might be able to tell ~ simply by the fact that a whole month has gone by without any progress posts on the Sewing All The Things challenge ~ that things have gone a bit squiffy for me recently!

After all the trouble I had with my wrap dress, I was kind of feeling a bit ‘meh’ about sewing and wanted to do something simple. So I picked Advance 3886, and some mauve jersey knit I had in my stash, and went ~ “This should be fairly simple right?” …..

Advance 3886 - vintage 1940's pattern | Lavender & Twill
Ah, about that?

Spoiler alert: it wasn’t!!  ( ̄。 ̄;)

Firstly, I was wrestling with a super stretchy knit fabric with tons of give, and all the pieces I cut ended up being around two inches shorter than the pattern pieces! Which would be okay ~ except for the bodice where it really wasn’t.  I thought I’d have to bin the whole thing, but then I had the dubiously “genius” idea to add an extra piece in at the shoulders to make up for the missing length.

Okay, project saved right?

Nope.

Number one tip for cutting knits? NOTCH OUTWARD NOT IN! All the little “v” cuts I made to mark the seam joins went into the seam allowance, and apparently that makes it super, super hard to make sure the cut is all caught up in the overlocking seam so that there aren’t any holes in your dress.

Really hard.

As in going over the same seam five time in a row hard.

Yikes.

I’ve got to say, that was bad enough, but the lovely gathered detail at the shoulders ~ that really was the last straw.

I tried to follow the instructions, but I don’t know ~ something went wrong somewhere and the ruching just looked… wrong.  So I ripped out the stitches and went “I give up!”.  Hence the overly long story of how July’s dress ended up in a UFO bag on my shelf. Humph.

Then I dusted off my unhappy sewing self and went with a really simple pattern ~ the blouse from Simplicity 3688.

Simplicity 3688 - retro re-release pattern | Lavender & Twill

This pattern, thankfully, was actually easy! Score! (ง •̀_•́)ง ☆

I used some pinwale corduroy from my stash in white and aubergine {or eggplant for us Aussies!} and while I don’t know what I was thinking when I bought it {one meter of each color? Really?}, it turned out to be a happy accident because I love how the color blocking turned out with this pattern.

Because the blouse construction is so simple, it really lends itself to playing around with your fabrics. Also, it’s a fun pattern to sew. I really enjoyed the process of putting it together. The sleeve heads are super cute with darts to add structure, rather than typical gathers, and the yoke section with bias binding around the neck line looks nice.

This time I cut the blouse to fit my nursing bust size rather than attempting an FBA, and while that helps with the chest squashing problem, I can see that the fit across the shoulders is too big. And I had to run two one inch darts down the back of the blouse to take in four inches of excess fabric from the back. I know the blouse is supposed to be “blousy” in fit, but there’s cute puffy and then there’s way-too-much-fabric-to-tuck-in puffy!

I paired the blouse with my grey scratchy wool skirt ~ yes, that’s it’s name ~ and thankfully in winter, stocking seem to negate the scratch.   (¬ ᴗ ¬)  I really like the combination of the simple colours, although *gasp* I just realised I don’t have any patterns in this outfit at all!  This must be a first!

Now at last I can mark another pattern off the Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge ~ I have three down, {one, two and this one obviously!} and two to go. While my sewing schedule may be all out of wack {annoying my OCD list ticking self}, I am definitely learning things along the way. We are getting there!  ヾ(^-^)ノ

~ Project Details ~

  • Year: A retro re-release of a 1940’s suit pattern
  • Pattern: Simplicity 3688
  • Fabric: 2 metres of pinwale corduroy; 1 meter of white, 1 meter of aubergine. From the stash: $7.00 a meter
  • Notions: A button and a hook and eye for closing the back slit
  • Time to complete: Two weeks
  • Make again? Yes. I think this blouse is pretty, and I’m keen to play around with some different fabrics using this pattern. It’s easy to make, comfortable to wear and has a nice authentic 1940’s look.
  • Wear again? For sure! I need some more 1940’s separates, and this is a good start.
  • Total Cost:  $14.00, but that was ages ago. Stash busting ftw!

xox,

bonita

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