1940s | 1960s | Blouses | Jackets | Skirts

Separates turned Suit

By on September 22, 2016
Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green

Back in spring I had planned to participate in the Vintage Suit-Sew-Along. While I never did get around to making a vintage suit per-say; I did manage to make this great vintage inspired suit.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
This suit is amazing!

My lovely green suit is made up completely of separates. I actually started this project with the blouse using Simplicity 1364.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
Yes, I know another Simplicity 1364 top

I wanted to make a skirt to go with the blouse and the Delphine skirt from the book “Love at First Stitch” By Tilly Walnes. This is my go to skirt pattern.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
The Delphine skirt is so easy to make

Once I had the blouse and skirt I thought this outfit was the start of the prefect vintage style suit. All it needed was a jacket to top it off.

Since I had limited fabric I deiced to make the bolero using Butterick 6354 pattern.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
This bolero really finished the outfit

This was the perfect paring of separates into the most amazing suit. I love this suit from the color the print. It may just be my favorite outfit I’ve made.

Akram's Ideas: Vintage Inspired Suit in Green
I love everything about this suit

 

To read more about my process for making my lovely green suit check out my blog Akram’s Ideas (http://akramsideas.com/vintage-inspired-suit-green)

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1970s | Blouses

Dig My Wide Collar – 1973 Simplicity 6110 Blouse

By on September 5, 2016
Simplicity 6110, copyright 1973

Simplicity 6110, Misses’ Blouse, Skirt and Pants

Seventies fashion always makes me smile.  I absolutely love the exuberance of this era’s designs:  cheerful, big buttons, the oh-so wide pointy collar that spreads from sleeve cap to shining sleeve cap, it all makes me grin.

S6110 frontAccording to the envelope, “This design has the new narrow shoulder look.  The shoulder length of the pattern is shorter and the head of the sleeve is higher.”

I sewed this up using Michael Miller’s “Little Lifesavers” quilting cotton.   This type of fabric is perfect for the way I wash and wear clothes.  That is to say, hot water, high heat in the dryer, and I’ll likely spill something down the front every other wearing.

S6110 back full lengthFitting was simple, as there is no bust dart.  Instead, the front is gathered into yokes.  By comparing the measurement of the pattern to a blouse that fits, I determined I only need to make a rounded upper back and swayback adjustment.

I also shortened the sleeves about an inch and a quarter.  Otherwise, they end at my elbow crease, making my waist look wide.  Between the wide collar and the short, cuffed sleeves, it appears I have a waist (I’m actually pretty square).

Can you dig my exuberant collar?
Can you dig my exuberant collar?

I wanted to emphasize the very pointed collar and cuffs.  I tried Pellon 950S, ShirTailor, which gave a crisp feel to both.

Sewing the blouse was incredibly straight forward.  The instructions are clearly written, and the diagrams quite helpful.

Cuff Detail
Cuff Detail

The oversize buttons that I love didn’t look quite right down the front of the blouse.  I happened to have two sets of the same orange buttons in different diameters.  What can I say?  I like orange buttons, so I have a lot of them.  The three-quarter inch diameter buttons matched the scale of the little lifesavers, and I like the effect much better.

But the cuffs, oh, man, the cuffs were made for the orange 1 1/8″ buttons.  The sheer exuberance of oversize orange buttons makes me so happy!

 

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1950s | Blouses | Shirts

Jennifer Lauren Handmade Gable Top

By on August 23, 2016

I recently had the opportunity to review the Gable Top from Jennifer Lauren Handmade.

Akram's Ideas: Jennifer Lauren Handmade Gable Top
I love this shirt!

If you are looking for a pattern to kick off your autumn sewing, this may be it!

I love everything about this shirt, from it’s ease to put together to the overall look.

The classic slash neckline, the sleeve variations , it’s just perfect.

Akram's Ideas: Jennifer Lauren Handmade Gable Top
I also love my fabric choice

I’ve also been wanting to add a striped knit shirt to my wardrobe for a long time. This seemed like a good pattern for doing just that. Plus, I’m so happy that I managed to line up all the stripes, even the sleeves match up.

Autumn maybe still a week or two out, but I’m already planning like a dozen more of these shirts.

Akram's Ideas: Jennifer Lauren Handmade Gable Top
I’m so happy with this shirt!

The Gable Top is great example of a modern pattern with a lot of classic 1950’s flare.

To read more about my process for making this shirt check out my blog Akram’s Ideas (http://akramsideas.com/gable-top-jennifer-lauren-handmade/)

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1960s | Blouses | Vintage Sewing

1960s Blouse

By on July 31, 2016

I’ve been eyeing this site for a while, but never thought I had anything worthy of posting here.  I have been collecting vintage patterns for a while – I have accumulated quite a collection, so I have plenty of sewing to do.  But, I also had been away from garment sewing for a long, long time. Last year I decided to get back to it.  I am not normally a huge fan of 60s styles, but I have really loved this blouse for a while.  A contest at PatternReview got me to finally make the blouse.

Here is my blouse:

Blouse frontBlouse backSide view

This is the pattern I used:

Vogue 5883

 

I used a cotton lawn I had in my stash.  Though I had (and still have) some issues with the front french dart and the collar, I am happy with the blouse.  It is very comfortable and a perfect summer blouse!

More on my blog: 1960s blouse

 

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1960s | Blouses | Shirts | Skirts

Gathered Skirt Paired with Simplicity 1364

By on July 21, 2016

In an earlier post I mentioned how much I love Simplicity 1364 blouse pattern. I loved it so much I wanted to make more versions of this blouse.

While searching my stash I found I had a lovely butterfly print fabric and decided to use it for another blouse.

Akram's Ideas : Simplicity 1364 & Gathered Skirt
I love this cheerful butterfly print

I really liked how the piping turned out on my shift dress I decided to add piping to this blouse.

After making the blouse I found that I had enough fabric left over that I could make a matching skirt.

I decided to make a simple gathered skirt. To give the set a more dress like appearance I aded piping to the skirt waistband.

Akram's Ideas : Simplicity 1364 & Gathered Skirt
I can wear it as a dress or as sperates

While the print might be a bit childish I really love the fun look of this this combo. I also love that at first glance it looks like a dress, but has the versatility of a two piece.

To read more about my process for making this set check out my blog Akram’s Ideas (http://akramsideas.com/butterfly-dress-purple-piping/)

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1960s | Blouses | Shirts

Simplicity 1364 My Favorite Blouse

By on July 18, 2016

I have a new favorite blouse pattern and it is Simplicity 1364.

This 1960’s reproduction pattern really is a JIFFY pattern.

Akram's Ideas: Simplicity 1364 in pink
My first version made in pink floral

My first version was a pink floral cotton, which I made as a test, since the pattern was new to me.

I loved it so much I immediately made a second one. This time out of a white floral and used French seams throughout.

I also made matching hair scarves for both blouses.

Akram's Ideas: Simplicity 1364 in pink
Second Simplicity 1364 in white floral

This blouse looks great with jeans or a skirt and is so light and comfy to wear in the summer heat.

Making this blouse was easy, it consists of only two main pattern pieces and sews up in no time.  I made even easier to put together by making a few modifications.

To read more about my process and modifications check at my blog Akram’s Ideas (http://akramsideas.com/favorite-blouse-simplicity-1364/)

 

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1930s | Blouses | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

1930s Wallis Simpson Inspired Blouse

By on May 12, 2016

Wallis Simpson, double collar blouse, 1936

I have coveted the beautiful double collar blouse Wallis Simpson wore during a cruise with Edward VIII in 1936 ever since I first saw the photograph many years ago. I love the fact that despite it being a very simple design it has lots and lots of gorgeous detailing on it. I also love the way it fits her so perfectly, so I was inspired to make my own version for my 1930s wardrobe. However, I didn’t want to do a direct copy of it but rather take the details of it and make my own version.

1930s burgundy outfit

I drafted the pattern myself from some old pattern blocks I made at college and it took two mock ups to get the fit just right. I wanted it to fit snuggly enough that it looked like a tailored shirt but also loose enough so I could move in it. The measurement across the shoulder blades was the trickiest, mainly because I was trying to do it on myself in the mirror!

The olive and burgundy berry cotton fabric came from my favourite fabric shop, ClothSpot and I knew it would go perfectly with the calf length burgundy skirt I’d recently made from an original 1930s sewing pattern. It took me a while to figure out what I wanted to do in terms of the detailing and what colours I wanted them to be but it was worth taking the time to get it right.

1930s Double Collar Blouse

The largest of the two collars was also self drafted using my oh-so-faithful pattern cutting book, Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wearspacer by Winifred Aldrich. I then traced it again and took about two centimetres off the outside edges to create the second one. The burgundy cotton was from my very big fabric stash and the ivory was rushed to me by ClothSpot after I discovered that I only had white or cream and neither of them were quite right.

Self covered belt buckle

The buttons are self-covered just like the ones on Wallis’ blouse and I also had the belt buckle covered for me by the London Button Company. I’d never used them before but I would highly recommend them to anyone, they were very quick and very helpful when I had questions. As the name suggests they also do buttons, all of which you can have covered in your own fabric, as well as a good range of buckles.

The buckle and the belt, which I made myself, is done in the same wool crepe type fabric of the skirt so it can be worn on top of the blouse or around the waistband of the skirt. This allows me to tuck the blouse in if I wish.

If you would like to read more about my version of Wallis Simpson’s 1930s blouse and see more photos, feel free to pop over to my blog.

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