1930s | Vintage Sewing

1930s Summer Plaid!

By on July 8, 2015

Well! It’s been a while since I’ve posted so I thought I’d start again with my new favourite number. A plaid 1930s style frock for summertime wear. I loved this dress so much when I saw one in a German fashion magazine dated August 1931 and I just had to have it so I draped it and I did so from memory because the magazine belonged to an antique dealer downtown who wanted $69 too much for it. I was going to snap a photograph of it but there were too many eyes upon me. Here it is anyhow, probably not exact to the style I saw but exact to what I desired.

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I made it a bit blousey for a change and I love that once in a while because it feels nice and cool on hot days.image

I also played around with the plaid which is something I love to do with all types of weaves and prints and patterns. I did the major pieces of the plaid on the bias because I love that about 1930s style and it makes me feel wonderful.image

I hope you’ll visit me on my blog! I have a few more finished articles there too and shall have many more to come!

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1930s | 1940s

1940s Plaid Hoodie

By on June 25, 2015

This is by far my favorite sewing project this year. I call my creation the Dorr Mill Plaid Hoodie, named for the shop that the wool was purchased from. I actually finished this jacket earlier in the spring but it wasn’t until recently that I was able to get some decent photos. This jacket counts towards my 2015 personal vintage pattern sewing pledge. In these pictures the jacket is worn over the blouse (Hollywood 1530) and slacks (Simplicity 1306) that I made last year for the Reading Air Show.

The sleeves are cut with an upper and lower sleeve section and are slightly gathered at shoulders. The jacket back is cut in one piece on the fold. The jacket fronts are made from two pieces each. And of course the hood, also cut on the fold. Hooray hood! The whole jacket is lined with cotton muslin. The whole jacket is gathered slightly to a wide fitted waistband and closes with buttons up the front. The buttons appear to be shell. I added a snap to the very bottom of the jacket. One of my favorite things about this jacket, aside from the hood that is, is the way the front is constructed. It was a little fiddly but I’m happy with the result. I did restitch one front section because the fabric shifted causing the plaid stripes to be off set. I flat felled the seams for a neater finish.

More photos here!

Summary of the Pattern
Fabric: 100% wool from the Dorr Mill Store, cotton lining
Pattern: Simplicity
Year: late 1930s
Notions: Buttons, thread, one snap
How historically accurate is it? Very. Plaids were pretty popular in the 30s and 40s for outerwear.
Any tricky parts to the pattern? Fitting the gathered front sections to the waistband and jacket front. Not too difficult just a little fiddly.
Did you change anything? I reduced the size just a touch and added a snap to the bottom front.
Time to complete: About a week, I’m guessing 8ish hours? I’m back at keep track.
First worn: Earlier this spring, first good pictures taken June 7 at the Reading Air Show.
Total cost: I can’t remember what I paid for the fabric because I bought it so long ago. I’d guess with the pattern the cost for this project would be in the $30 to $40 range.
Notes: The jacket fits great over a dress as intended and works well with 40s high waisted pants. If I were to make this again for modern wear I would lengthen it a little bit.

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1930s | 1940s | Swimwear / Sunwear

Glamour Swimsuit

By on June 16, 2015

Hi All!

Long time no-post here- I’ve been so busy over on my blog with my Bra-A-Week Challenge, making up lingerie and swimwear. But I made a very vintage swimsuit this week that I knew I had to share with you all! It is a one-piece suit, with a ruched front modesty panel and triangle cup-top, and the back is a non-ruched modesty panel with cut out-details!

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I got the inspiration for this suit from my two of my biggest girl crushes: Lana Del Rey and Kiera Knightly. The front is inspired by this suit worn by Lana (not sure what it was from, could just be a photo shoot) and the back is inspired by the suit that Kiera Knightly wore in the movie Atonement (could I just have all of her clothes from that movie please??)

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I made it using this delicate printed swimwear fabric (because I’m not daring enough to actually wear white swimwear), and used some large brass coloured rings in the back for the details!

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This was an entirely self-drafted pattern. I’ve made myself a base swimsuit sloper that I draft most of my swimwear from.  And it’s surprisingly easy to make any kind of swimwear from a good base sloper! Most of the edges of this swimsuit were finished with self-binding, except for the leg holes that I finished with all-rubber swim elastic, and the hem of the modesty panel that I just flipped up and stitched.  I also left a gap in the swim lining on the cups so I could put in molded triangle cups.

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I LOVE my new suit!! You can check out more about this suit and my Bra-A-Week Challenge over on my blog- in case you are also a lingerie/swimwear maker who would like to join in the fun! 🙂

xo erin

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1930s | Lingerie

1930s Dressing Gown

By on June 2, 2015

This was definitely a step away from my usual cotton day dresses and wool skirts!  My latest sewing project was a full-length dressing gown using the 1930s Butterfly Blouse pattern from Decades of Style.  This pattern has been around for quite some time and has several reviews online.  Everyone who’s made it was thrilled with the fit, and I have to agree.  It is a great pattern to work with and a very flattering style.  The fabric is lightweight with an excellent drape.  It has a black flocked background and sheer, see-through flowers.  A gorgeous lingerie effect and oh-so-dramatic!

More photos and details are over at my blog, Willow Homestead.

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1930s | 1940s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

Smooth Sailing Trousers – My First Pair of Pants!

By on May 31, 2015

After going through a phase of sewing nothing but knit dresses and T-shirts, I’m back with a very vintage-style garment! This is my first pair of pants, made from the Smooth Sailing Trousers pattern from Wearing History. Since I became interested in vintage styles, I’ve always loved 30’s/40’s style wide-leg trousers, and this pattern was exactly what I was looking for! It’s hard to see because the fabric is black, but there are pleats at the front, darts at the back, a side zipper, and optional cuffs, belt loop and belt. I made the version without cuffs, but with the belt loops. I skipped the belt, though, because I have a couple black belts already!

I cut a size 12 for the muslin and graded to a 14 at the hips, but ended up sizing up for a little more ease at the waist. I tweaked the fit a little though by keeping the darts, pleats and crotch curve from the size 12. I also shortened the pieces by 2″.

I used a bamboo rayon (not sure what to call it exactly) with nice drape, but it ended up being really shifty and stretchy on the bias after I washed it – it was originally very crisp and linen-like. It probably wasn’t ideal for these pants, because they’ve really stretched out and need re-hemming (possibly some other alterations too…).

The pattern is very simple to construct, perfect for someone new to making pants. The hardest part was working with the fabric! If they hadn’t stretched out so much, I would have been very happy with how they turned out. Right now, I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with them, but I’ve made anther pair and I can definitely say that I love the pattern and the style!

For more photos and construction details, check out my blog! I also wrote a detailed review of the pattern as a guest post on Sew Sweetness, if you want to know more about the pattern itself!

Oh, and I also made the blouse I’m wearing in these photos. It’s the Sewaholic Pendrell, made from a muumuu that I bought at a thrift store! Thanks for reading!

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1930s | 1940s

Housedress with Pockets

By on May 21, 2015

Long-time reader, first-time poster. This housedress is based on “The Magic Nightgown” at http://sewingvintage.blogspot.ca/2012/08/the-magic-nightgown.html, but in a cotton print, knee-length for a more 1940s look, and with patch pockets added. I made bias tape from the leftover fabric rather than using contrasting tape to finish the sleeves and neck opening. Also, I only did two darts. I think next time I make up this pattern, I’ll follow the “small” measurements for the neck opening, shoulder breadth and armholes, as the latter are slightly larger than I could have wished, but overall, I’m pleased with the look and the comfort of this casual dress. purple_dress

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1930s | Capes | Vintage Sewing

#CapeletAlong with SewRetroRose

By on April 8, 2015

I just finished up a sew-along collaboration between the lovely Beccie from SewRetroRose and Decades of Style, completing this lovely 1930’s Capelet.

Let me just tell you what an amazing project this was. I really feel that this one stretched my limits as a seamstress, and I learned some wonderful new techniques along the way.

Before I get to photos of the finished project, let me walk you through the construction.

On Beccie’s (SewRetroRose) suggestion I made a muslin for this project. I’m glad I did because while I didn’t need to make any huge changes, I felt much more confident when cutting into my fashion fabric. I must admit I do love the plaid fabric I used for the muslin, so this may get finished and be wearable one day.

I decided on this lovely light pink and brown houndstooth corduroy that I had about 4 yards of in my fabric stash. I felt that it had the perfect weight and drape for this project.

The bodice came together really easily in this project. I didn’t add the extra length to the cape as Beccie did with hers, nor did I do a full lining. I wanted to and honestly I bought a lovely chocolate brown satin that was to become the lining, but I chickened out on that at the last minute. Next time I’ll try the lining! I promise!

This project was the first time I’d done bound buttonholes. I’m so pleased with how they turned out, even though I ended up with a few minor mistakes, they came together so easily.

This is one of those minor mistakes… I didn’t think about the nap of the fabric and which direction each facing was well facing… Oops. 🙂 Honestly, I ended up with two going each direction in a alternating pattern, so I’m gonna sell it as a design element! 😉

Next I moved onto the cape itself. This was very easily put together.

Here is the cape pinned onto the bodice! Thank to my lovely Millie being there for fittings. She’s such a fabulous helper… and so quiet!!

And now here it is stitched into place. I did have to adjust the stitch line a bit because it didn’t lay just right the first time I sewed it down.

After that it was just a matter of finishing the armholes, adding and tacking the facings and sewing on the buttons. I was so excited to be in the home stretch on this one. I knew from using Millie that it was going to fit, but I really wanted to see how it looked on me, and that was next to impossible to know for sure without those buttons.

I catchstiched all of my facings, which was another first for me. I’ve never used that stitch before. I also bound all of my seams with bias… it’s a slightly different shade of brown that my fabric, but it’s on the inside and no one should notice.

I’m sure your all eager to see the finished capelet by now. So thanks for sticking around through this long and picture heavy post! You’re undoubtedly the best readers around!

Here she is in all of her glory. I feel like calling her Clara because I feel like this is something Clara Bow would have worn and loved. It’s just the right amount of glamour and sophistication.

Picture credit to silentsaregolden.com

I chose large brown wooden buttons with a filigree pattern jigsawed out of the center. I searched for days for the right buttons and I’m so pleased with these.

So there you have it! My completed Decades of Style 1930’s Capelet! Now she needs a skirt…

Look for this make in the near future… but not so near future. I’m leaving on Friday with my two little ones to get on a jet plane and fly home to Sunny Florida!! We’ll be gone for 17 days and it will be a much needed vacation from work and the cold dreary Ohio spring. See you all when I get back! There may be an update or two during the time I’m gone, I am taking my laptop, but there may not be if we get too busy having fun. So don’t despair if you don’t see me. I will be back!

Much love to you all!!

~MissKacySews

www.shessewbettie.blogspot.com

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