1930s

Hi guys! The Betty Skirt pattern from Shaffer Sisters will be re-released next week with extended girls sizes, up to size 16x. The skirt is knee length with a deep yoke, inspired by the 1930s.

Betty Skirt for 18" doll | SewsNBows

There’s a pleated, gathered, or button placket version.

Betty Skirt

This is a girls button placket version I made last year.

As you can see, I like to use a vintage inspired (or just plain vintage!) patterns and pair them with modern fabric. Sometimes crazy notions add a fun look. I’m not bold enough for some of my favorite looks, so making for kiddos is fun.

Anyways, the Betty Skirt re-release includes a bonus 18″ doll pattern so I thought I’d pop over and show you. I don’t get to sew as much vintage (inspired, or otherwise) as I’d like; so any excuse to come say hi:)

PS there is a free pattern for this skirt in newborn size here.

{ 1 comment }

I spotted Hollywood

by ette on July 7, 2014 · 16 comments

in 1930s,Dresses

Last year in late autumn I spotted a beautiful Bette Davis Pattern on etsy, Hollywood 1221, published in 1934. And my boyfriend was so kind to give it to me as a christmas-present.

I already copied the pattern a few days after the holidays (because the pattern is so old I don’t want to use the original pattern pieces anymore), but it wasn’t until a few weeks ago I finally decided for a fabric and started cutting.

DSC_0779

The choice of fabric wasn’t that intelligent in hindsight. I used1,5m of a white spotted green cotton print I bought a few years ago in the odds-and-ends-box of a nearby fabric store that doesn’t exist anymore. I chose it because I thought it was close enough to the spotted fabric on the envelope drawing and could look good (but it is not really appropriate for this time, in the sewing magazines I own polka dots don’t appear earlier than late 30ies, in earlier issues I only found them to be used for children’s clothing).
For this project it was just enough, I had to cut the lower back in two pieces, otherwise it wouldn’t have fit.

DSC_0777

Well, the resulting dress is really…dotty. The matching of the pattern is at some seams better than at others, unfortunately where it didn’t fit was in the centre front (in contrast to the text on the linked page, it is a two-piece skirt. There is no seam in the pleat and I didn’t think of adjusting the width of it to match the dots).

 

DSC_0786

 

The pattern asked for two zippers, on at the side and one in the centre back. I used a white nylon zipper in the neck and a light cream one in the side seam (because I had them in stock, I do know they aren’t authentic for the 30ies)  Both zipper-seams are hand-sewn as is the hem.

DSC_0783

I used white thread for all seams, this seemed to be a better match than green one.

The size is a straightforward 12, only thing I changed is I shortened the hem by 7cm.

Because the pattern was too weird with the stomacher in between I applied a rest of white cotton ribbon after having already finished it, now it is a lot better.

 

DSC_0784

 

I used every bit of it. As you see, it wasn’t enough to attach it on both ends of the stomacher-part in the back as well, the rest I had was just enough to form the button-loop for a button in the neck above the zipper.

DSC_0782

As I said, I didn’t change anything. Like the most american patterns, the seam allowance is  included, something still unusual for me (it is uncommon in europe), because it makes it difficult for me to imagine how large it will be in the end (and in this case it was difficult to match the fabric pattern as well). When looking at the result it seems as if the bodice is a little too long, when making it again I should try to shorten the stomacher-part.

DSC_0780

I hope you like it!

DSC_0776

 

So much for today, love

ette

{ 16 comments }

Another 1930s re-pro pattern from EvaDress, I made these up a few months ago but finally got around to documenting them. I had started the blouse (not enough of the lovely rayon for a whole dress) ages ago, but the sleeve pleats got the better of me and then I got busy with other things. Once I’d figured them out though, I’m in love with the look.

EvaDress 1934 Frock

As I had an occasion to wear it, I finished the blouse and made up the lower portion of the pattern in a similar green coloured mystery fabric I picked up second hand.

EvaDress 1934 Frock (as separates) by HLB

EvaDress 1934 Frock (as separates) by HLB. Back view.

Cutting out the blouse and getting it to do what i wanted was a bit of a challenge. It’s a buttery rayon with lovely drape but frays terribly at the edges and slinks around when you try to sew it. I pinned it to within an inch of its life and took the time to hand baste as well as hand hem the bottom edge/ties, collar and  sleeve edges. Time consuming but a nice neat finish.

Sleeve detail. Self covered button and pleating.

Most people thought it was a dress when worn together, but I actually like that I can mix and match it. For another event I made a shorter black rayon skirt with side godets for dancing in.

EvaDress 1934 Frock (blouse) with self drafted skirt by HLB

I’ll definitely be making this up again with some strategic alterations. As always, do check out the full post on the blog.

~Heather

{ 9 comments }

We have quite a bit of fun over on the WeSewRetro Facebook page (have you been playing our vintage pattern dating game over there?) and when I posted this 1940s McCall pattern, reader Carla wondered why we don’t see any reissued vintage McCall’s patterns similar to the Vintage Vogue and Retro Butterick lines.

Pretty good question, right? I thought so too, so I had a little chat with the lovely Meg from the McCall Pattern Company to find out…and got an exciting exclusive scoop in the process – guess what McCall’s will be releasing in June? Read on to learn more…

Hi Meg! Thanks for taking the time to answer some questions for us. Can you tell us about the process of taking a single-sized vintage pattern and rereleasing it as a multisized pattern? How do you approach the sizing, considering modern women tend to run slightly larger and often wear less restrictive undergarments than in, say, the 1940s?

Ok, so the process we undertake depends on the brand:

“Vintage Vogue” patterns

These are authentic patterns, reissued just as they were originally published. We take the pattern pieces and resize them to today’s size 10, and then we follow the normal grading process from there.

Sewing one of our reissued Vintage Vogue patterns is the best way to have an authentic vintage sewing experience, just the same as when your grandmother or great-grandmother first sewed this pattern. We go through a complete process to re-create these patterns.

Anyone with an old Vogue Pattern who thinks it might have wide appeal for today’s sewers is welcome to send us a photo of the envelope front and back toeditor@voguepatterns.com. All pattern pieces and the instructions must be accounted for, nothing can be missing or damaged beyond use. If we decide to use your pattern, we’ll ask you to send the entire pattern to us so we can work with it to re-create it. In return, you’ll receive a credit on the pattern envelope and on the catalog page, plus you can choose five free patterns. And we return your pattern to you.

We get asked all the time why we don’t reissue designer patterns, like DVF’s iconic wrap dress pattern. We would LOVE to do this, but it all boils down to licensing agreements with each designer, and these agreements were negotiated years ago and are no longer in effect. It bums us out as much as it does you. Negotiating licensing agreements with designers these days is a far more complex process than it was back in the 1940s-1980s, but that’s a story for another time.

 “Retro Butterick” patterns

We go into our archives and re-create the pattern from the illustration and line drawings. Since we are basically starting from scratch without a pattern, we can follow our normal sizing and grading process for today’s women.

“McCall’s Archive Collection” patterns

This new pattern line will debut with a pattern from the 1930s in the McCall’s Early Fall catalog, coming in June. We follow the same process here as we do with Retro Butterick—we go into our archives and replicate what’s in the pattern illustration.

Awesome! A new retro pattern line from McCall’s – I can’t wait to see the first offering!  I know you have an archive room at McCall Pattern Company headquarters and I’m sure I’m not the only one who would fistfight a moose to get a peek in there. Can you tell us a little bit about it?

We do have an archive room, though it’s not very big, more like a large walk-in closet. But it has the coolest stuff in it! Tons of old pattern catalogs for Butterick, Vogue Patterns and McCall’s. Old Delineator magazines going back to the late 1880’s. (Delineator was created to market Butterick patterns but then grew into a general interest magazine for women.) Sewing books. Company newsletters. Original artwork. At one time we had an actual archivist who maintained our archives. If you’d like glimpses of what’s in the archive room, visit our Pinterest boards featuring photos of old pattern catalog pages  (mccallpatternco).

This is going to make you sad, but we do not have paper copies of our patterns that were created in the pre-digital days. It’s unfortunate, but we just don’t have the space to store the thousands of patterns we’ve issued in the decades we’ve been in business. We have donated many old patterns to museums and educational institutions, though, and we do maintain a huge collection of our brands’ pattern catalogs through the years.

With such a long and amazing back catalog of patterns to choose from, how do you go about choosing which patterns to reissue?


We are very influenced by popular culture when it comes to deciding what patterns to reissue, and customer feedback plays a big role here too. In fact, thanks to customer feedback, we’re issuing Downton Abbey-inspired sewing patterns in the Fall issue of Butterick, coming this July. If there is a particular type of vintage pattern or era you think we should bring back, then by all means let us know! You can send an email to facebook@voguepatterns.com, leave a comment on one of our pattern brand’s Facebook page (we have Facebook pages for Vogue Patterns, McCall’s, Butterick and Kwik Sew), or tweet us (@mccallpatternco).

Thanks so much for this opportunity to chat with We Sew Retro. We love seeing what you sew with our vintage patterns, and you inspire us. Happy sewing!

So there you have it, readers. The new McCall’s Archive Collection will start in June with a reissued pattern from the 1930s. Which 1930s McCall pattern do you think it will be? I’ll be sharing some of my very favorite McCall patterns from the 1930s over on our facebook page today and I’ve had an obscene amount of fun creating a ginormous 1930s McCall pinterest board which you can find by clicking here. What’s your favorite McCall pattern from the 30s?  Have you sewn something from a 30s McCall pattern? Pop a link in the comments so I can pin it…

{ 20 comments }