1920s

The jazz age! Sportswear, cloche hats, and boyish silhouettes…

I have always been open and honest about my obsession with sewing. You only have to take one glance at my life to see it is completely consumed by the hobby. As well as my blog, I have numerous sewing machines stashed away throughout my house  (and in my garage) and the largest bedroom in my house has been turned into a sewing room. Now this interest developed over a period of time. The more I attempted to sew garments, the better I became and the more obsessed I grew. A natural progression some might say.

What has taken me by surprise, however, was how quickly this developed into a secondary interest…. an interest in vintage sewing. I found it really enjoyable to search for, collect and try out vintage patterns, hunt down vintage machines, source vintage fabric and of course take inspiration from vintage fashions. Why we follow current fashions I will never know, because in my opinion people were so much more stylish 50+ years ago!

cloche hat and vintage dress by made with hugs and kisses

Lately I have been really trying to incorporate my love of vintage fashions into my every day wardrobe. I am so proud of myself as I am finding I have developed such an extensive handmade wardrobe that I am able to wear handmade for at least half the week, if not more (depending on how up to date with the washing I am!) And by attending vintage fairs and stores I have begun to pick up a few accessories that finish off the look perfectly. My latest favourite being hats! I never realised until recently, but I think In really suit them :D

cloche hat floral dress by made with hugs and kisses

So, what does all of this rambling have to do with my latest project? Well, this dress is based on a vintage pattern from the 1970′s that I borrowed from a friend. Luckily we are exactly the same size which made everything nice and easy.

2013-09-28 17.40.51

I already loved that it was vintage, but what was even better was that by using this particular material I think it looks even more retro… I can’t quite pinpoint which era it reminds me of… I want to say 20′s perhaps.

Anyway, this then gave me the idea of teaming it with one of my vintage cloche hats to see if it would finish of the look…. and it did!

When we took these pictures I felt like I had stepped right out of an old movie :D

hat with floral vintage dress by made with hugs and kisses

 

I do plan on making this dress again,but next time I might add an extra inch around the waist , and even though that pattern calls for bodice facings to be used, I felt that these proved to be more of a hindrance than a help, so I would instead go for a full bodice lining  instead. Overall though a successful creation and one I am sure I will get plenty of wear out of, especially if I team it with tights for the winter.

floral vintage with hat by made with hugs and kisses

Well, it certainly is nice to be able to share another project, I know it has been a little while since my last one. Turns out work is hard and tiring!

With it being half term this week I am hoping to get a lot of sewing and blogging done, and perhaps some refashions and pattern making too… it is going to be a busy, but very enjoyable week. I have lots in store so please feel free to pop on over to my blog :D

Happy sewing everyone

oXo

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Mrs. Depew Patterns

by restlessweaver on October 11, 2013 · 4 comments

in 1920s

This year for Halloween, I’m hoping to make a 1920s flapper-style dress, preferably something I can wear again.  I’ve been looking around for inexpensive pattern options, and stumbled across Mrs. Depew’s patterns on Etsy.  After doing a search for pattern reviews, I only found reviews for her lingerie, bras, and bathing suits.  Has anyone made one of her dresses?  Was it complicated to do so without a printed pattern?  I would love to read a review if someone has posted one!

Here are the two dresses I am considering:

Option 1:

Option 2 (not exactly flapper, but so pretty!)

Thank you for your help!

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A fantabulous friend made the find of the century as far as I am concerned. In Malta a moth balled warehouse, delapidated but full of vintage haberdashery. She braved 30 degree heat, no light bar a head torch, no help just her, collapsing wooden shelves and many bugs and creepy crawlies (we Brits are not at all hardy when it comes to bugs). Untouched for over 50 years, she delved in and rescued what she could, all with the blessing of the owner I hasten to add.

I so lucked out to have such a buddy as she has so kindly shared some vintage goodies with me. Trim, lace and buttons ranging from 1920's through to the 1950's.

So in for a penny, in for a pound I'm sewing up an upcycling storm. Buying vintage fabric online to fully compliament the goodies. The grand plan to have a wonderful selection of items for Christmas. I've made some samples today…. Baubles made from trim with vintage button on either side and a heart with glass 1920's red and white buttons. Thinking the heart can work as a bauble for a tree, a mirror hanging or a proper fancy pants pin cushion even!

Tomorrow I am sampling some hair accessories, my thinking is at the vintage fair in November people likely will be looking for either stocking fillers or beautifully unique handmade vintage items with the bonus of saving the planet as its all up-cycled. Everything is of my own design, many sleepless nights with creative juices going CURAZEE with ideas for my goodies which finally are now becoming real things rather than a head full of ideas :)

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This year I finally made up my mind to create a historically correct 1920′s outfit for the Art Deco Society of California’s Gatsby Summer Afternoon in Oakland, California.  This Art Deco picnic was held at the Dunsmuir Hellman Historic Estate and the attire is daywear from 1920-1940 (the Art Dcco period of course!).  It is a living history event with no spectators as everyone is a participant.

Gatsby Summer Afternoon

I made not only my outfit, but my husbands’ as well, even venturing into hat-making, which is a pursuit that I have never delved into before.  My dress is a seafoam green floral poly chiffon with a yellow crepe back satin slip.  It’s made using Vogue 2535, a 1928 design pattern that is out of print.

Vintage Vogue 2535, Original 1928 Design

I added a sash out of my slip fabric and fabric rosettes made from my dress fabric.  I love this pattern and it’s very comfortable to wear, even with synthetic fabrics and a hot afternoon.  The cape is most definitely my favorite feature and I also love the handkerchief hemline.

My hat is a 1920′s garden party hat made with maize silk dupioni and a buckram base.    The sash is the same yellow fabric I used for my slip and I added vintage silk millinery flowers.  I used Butterick 4697, a “Making History” pattern that is also out of print.

Butterick 4697

As a history scholar, I try to get my vintage repro outfits historically correct.  I am ….mostly …. with the exception that I could not find any crocheted gloves in time and my lace glovemaking pursuits were futile.  Also, it was very hot that day and I couldn’t stand wearing my seam-back pantyhose….. I think stockings and garters are the way to go!

If 1920′s men’s patterns were readily available I would have used them for my husbands’ outfit, unfortunately they are not easy to find.  Fortunately, men’s fashion has not changed much in the last 100 years, so I improvised.  My husband’s shirt is McCalls 2447 and is made of blue Burberry herringbone stripe shirting.  It has collar stays and French cuffs with vintage blue sapphire cufflinks that were my grandpa’s (which of course, you can’t see!).  His vest is Vogue 8497 (out of print) and is made of navy cotton poplin with vintage metal buttons and lined with striped shirting.  His trousers are vintage from a thrift store.  I bought him a 1920s vintage silk foulard tie with a geometric design, but what do ya know?  I forgot to pack it….

His golf cap is Vogue 8869 and is made of a black/midnight blue wool coating from my stash.

Overall it was such a great day, albeit HOT, and we are already planning for next year!  I’d like to make Vogue 2535 in a silk/cotton voile and use some contrasts.  I have in mind making my husband a seersucker suit, so if anyone knows of any great vintage suit patterns, please let me know!

Mr. and Mrs. Hughes at the Gatsby Summer Afternoon

Happy Sewing!

 

 

 

More details and photos from this event on my blog.

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