1910s | Blouses | Vintage Sewing

Watch This Lace – The Armistice Blouse

By on January 5, 2013

Happy New Year all! I’m very excited to be sharing my first make of 2013 with you – Folkwear’s Armistice Blouse – which also happens to be my most cherished make to date. Aside from the beautiful pattern details, I made it using silk that my great grandmother spun/wove with her own two hands in the 1940s. I know nothing about the technicalities of weaving silk fabric – but I do know that she even nurtured the silk worms herself.

This blouse dates from 1918 and has such a deliciously romantic and floaty feel to it. The reason it’s so flattering to wear is the gathered back, which counteracts some of the fullness of the design. This is cleverly constructed by actually gathering the back and then sewing the self-made tie over the gathers.

Of course the over-sized collar and front panel are the real stars of this blouse and lend themselves to so much modification. I kept mine pretty simple though to let the exquisite silk and lace really shine. The pattern calls for functional buttons, but the ones I added – cute little heart-shaped ones – are purely decorative as I can actually slip this on and off without the need for any closures.

This blouse is full of unique details, which make it a true pleasure to construct. Just look at these elaborate double cuffs with the added lace and tiny buttons!

This make is also special as it is part of a bigger project – Watch This Lace – set in motion last summer when I came across a rather large bundle of beautiful vintage lace After much consideration, I couldn’t get A Common Thread Project out of my mind, the inspired idea from Mena of The Sew Weekly. The tantalising thought of sharing my loot with sewing bloggers internationally and showcasing our different creations was too good to pass up. So I got in touch with eight of many, many beloved bloggers and they agreed to help brighten our last two winter months! To see which bloggers are taking part in Watch This Lace and for more photos and background on my cherished Armistice Blouse hop on over to my blog.

 

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1910s | Downton Abbey Inspired

renfrew, downton style

By on December 27, 2012

The sisters Crawley- Lady Edith, Lady Mary and Lady Sybil, season 2

for many, many moons now i’ve wanted to adapt this dinner dress of lady mary’s (circa 1918 in the show) into something wearable and a little more modern for myself. you may even recall some of my earlier ideas.
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after a few false starts, i settled on adapting the design to a t-shirt as the most wearable and achievable goal.  there were some construction adventures, but in the end i’m pretty happy.

full post and more photos at puu’s door of time.
top styled with a modified 1940s simplicity 2571.

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1910s | 1950s

vogue 1043: lady mary style and a fifties pattern

By on December 10, 2012
inspiration point: lady mary's sheer surplice bodice dinner gown from series 1 with green underdress

our office holiday party was on friday, which obviously required a new dress. not only was it my first time to dress up in a little while, my company was recently acquired and there were 300 new co-workers on whom to make an impression.

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i had been wanting for a while to riff on one of the series one downton abbey gowns of lady mary’s, a neat bit of sheer work with applique and a green underdress. however, as i started chewing on this idea, i realized i needed to do more than riff, i needed to adapt.

so i started with vogue 1043, which had a surplice bodice i had already fitted and worked on. i changed the side zipper to a CB because i wanted to hand-pick and bead the zipper. i went for a high-low hem, because even though this trend is EVERYWHERE, i sort of love it. it adds a major element of fun to a garment, and i cannot help myself. so i took the quarter-circle skirt of V1043, adjusted the hems, and added gathering in the back two panels for an almost-bustle and some skirt volume. i almost went super-trendy and did an even sheerer dress over a shorter skirt, for that au currant long-sheer-skirt-over-hot-pants look, but i decided that was taking it a bit too far. and also, all of the really gorgeous sheer fabric was more slippery and harder to work with than this lovely light cotton voile.

 

full blog post and additional photos can be found at puu’s door of time.

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1910s | Dress Forms | Vintage Sewing

An Edwardian Mannequin

By on December 9, 2012

This is not a new project but I’m planning on making a new one for decoration so I’m trying to recall what I learned from the last one.

I bought this Edwardian dummy pattern at Atelier Sylphe Corsets. The pattern is very precise and comes together without tweaking. For me, the instructions were enough but I wont recommend this for a beginner. The fabric is thick cotton twill, upholstery fabrics probably works the best. I recommend lining the neck, arm and bottom plates with cardboard for a clean look. I filled my dummy with polyester filling which worked OK but the material is to lightweight and it took ridiculous amounts of filling to get an even shape. There is a reason people used straw or sawdust originally. Next time Ill try something else. Over all this is a nice looking, unusual pattern.

Here it is again with a corset on. My first try on an Edwardian S-shape from a free pattern. The pattern was published in various home sewing books the years around 1910. This is a quickly made, single layer corset with only six bones on each side so its not very supportive but works well for testing the fit. The Corset is made for me so its a bit big for the dummy.

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1910s | Downton Abbey Inspired | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

Lady Edith

By on August 21, 2012

I made this version of Lady Edith’s black floral blouse from Season 1 of Downton Abbey way back in January but I never got around to making a skirt to go with it…. at least until now!

The skirt is Butterick 9682 from 1915 which is available from Past Patterns. It has pockets!

Early 20th century patterns sure have different expectations of the knowledge base of the sewer! I fussed around with the closure for a good while before I got it to work.

I also got to wear my Astorias from American Duchess with this outfit. Yay for historically accurate shoes!

More photos and other costuming shenanigans on my blog. And I’m currently hosting a vintage pattern giveaway!

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1910s | Dresses

Simplicity 8399 Titanic style gown made with sari fabric

By on June 9, 2012

   

SIMPLICITY 8399 VIEW A

  • Pattern: Simplicity 8399 Misses’ Titanic inspired costume. View A.
  • Pattern sizing: N 10,12,14. I cut a size 12.
  • Fabric: 100% white cotton for bodice lining. 100% dyed satin silk for bodice lining and underskirt. Black chiffon for second overskirt. Sari fabric for bodice and overskirt.

I made this Titanic style gown for Costume Con 30. I couldn’t afford the beautiful heavy beaded net indian fabrics @$100+/yd, so I opted for a full length sparkly sari on sale for $25.

The biggest dilemma with this project was how to cut the sari. The print on the sari was one way and printed on an angle. Great if you are draping it on your body, bad if you are cutting it to make a gown as there is no real mirror image of the pattern. I finally figured it out after losing most of the sari to bad cutting decisions.

The pattern itself is a good one, and I would use it again if I needed another Titanic style gown.

Find out more details of my experience with this pattern on my blog.

 

 

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1910s | Dresses | Hats | Vintage Sewing

Lady Mary’s Garden Party Dress

By on April 9, 2012

I’ve been busy sewing away on another Downton Abbey inspired piece. For Easter, I decided to sew up Mary’s Garden Party/Flower Show dress from season 1.

I used Vogue 8648 as a starting point and then drafted away to make the piece more like Mary’s dress. I also got to use a piece of my great-grandmother’s lace that I inherited when she passed last summer so this project was very special to me.

I also retrimmed a hat to look like the one Mary wears with this dress at the Garden Party.

If you’d like to get more details, you can find them on my blog. And stick around because I’ll be doing a hat construction post and a dress detail post later on this week over at my blog.

 

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