1940s | 1950s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Colette Patterns, Penny Dress

By on October 27, 2017
Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

Modern with retro flair! The Colette Penny was my last summer hoorah before I transitioned over to Fall and Winter pieces.

Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

This particular October in San Francisco has been super warm, so I’ve gotten the opportunity to wear this dress more frequently than I anticipated!

 

Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

The vintage-inspired selling points for me were the following:

  • The cummerbund (super 50s and I love how it looks like my waist is smaller than it is haha!)
  • The A-line skirt (flattering and very 40s in its simplicity)
  • Buttons all the way to the top (very vintage-office-chic)

 

Vintage on Tap, Colette Penny dress with full tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

The change I would probably recommend right off the bat is…

to add hooks, rather than snaps, to the cummerbund “belt”, especially since it ends right where your arm might pop off the belt (having the hooks there just makes more sense to me, anyway!)

More detailed photos, including a How to Sew video over on my website. 

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1940s | Blouses | Modern Patterns | Vintage Sewing

Gertie Keyhole Blouse, New Book for Better Sewing

By on September 26, 2017
Gertie Keyhole Blouse, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

Hello, everyone!

Long time since I’ve shared a project on here, but I haven’t been sewing too much lately 😣

Anyway, the last thing I worked on was the Gertie Keyhole blouse from the New Book for Better Sewing.

Gertie Keyhole Blouse, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

The pattern itself requires some pattern drafting!

It was a transformation from the Bow Tie blouse from the same book.

Essentially, you have to move the bust dart to the shoulder, and gather the shoulder for a cute rusching detail.

 

Gertie Keyhole Blouse, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

Five rows of gathers, and a keyhole cut out from the neckline- super 40s!

 

Gertie Keyhole Blouse, Vintage on Tap | Vintageontap.com

Absolutely LOVE how it came out– I’ve worn it at least once a week since I made it haha!

 

Anyway, more photos including a sewing tutorial (!!) over on my website.

All in all 10/10 in terms of how much I love it 😎

(Definitely recommend it for daily use! I wanna remake this in some yummy silks!)

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1950s | Dresses

Vintage 1955 McCall’s 7625

By on July 25, 2017
Sewing Vintage 1950s McCall's 7625 | Vintage on Tap

Hello, everyone!

Wanted to share one of my most recent makes, McCall’s 7625 which came out for Early Fall 2017 ☺️ It was originally released back around 1955!

Sewing Vintage 1950s McCall's 7625 | Vintage on Tap

 

I was actually suuuuper hesitant about the drop waist on this piece, but to be honest, it worked out. I suspect that its because of the fisheye darts at the natural waist line, which helped nip in the design.

 

Sewing Vintage 1950s McCall's 7625 | Vintage on Tap

 

Anyway, I’m really happy with how it turned out overall and am looking forward to making the short sleeve version for an upcoming trip.

 

Sewing Vintage 1950s McCall's 7625 | Vintage on Tap

 

Definitely check out the video series I did for this pattern, though, especially since I ended up tackling a full bust adjustment on this piece (princess seams AND fisheye darts?! Yes.)– my video series also went into the how-to-sew for this pattern, in case you’re thinking of making it.

 

Sewing Vintage 1950s McCall's 7625 | Vintage on Tap

 

More photos of this project over on my blog

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1950s | Dresses | Modern Patterns | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Butterick 6453, Spring Jenny Dress

By on May 23, 2017
Patterns by Gertie Butterick 6453, View A | Vintage on Tap

 

I’m ready for all the summer dresses!

I hope you guys have already found your favorite summer sewing pattern to whip up tons of sundresses!

Butterick 6453, Gertie Sew Along | Vintage on Tap

Patterns by Gertie Butterick 6453, View A | Vintage on Tap

Making this dress was definitely quite a journey.

I broke down the entire process, from fitting to completed garment, in a bunch of videos, which really allowed me to take my time and make this dress right. The video series was a total of 5 videos long.

Butterick B6453, View B | Vintage on Tap

Butterick B6453, Sewing Pattern | Vintage on Tap

Did I love this pattern? Absolutely.

Midway through writing this post I went ahead and browsed Etsy for more fabric. View A (the yellow tulip dress) is tooooootally where my heart is at right now and I love how similar the design is to Pinup Girl Clothing’s Jenny Dress.

Overall, the garment was super simple to construct, but of course the trickiest part was doing a full bust adjustment on a princess seam. It turned out really well, though, and wouldn’t be afraid to tackle it again in the future.

Vintage on Tap, Butterick 6453

To view the full photoshoot, including all my sewing notes, check out my blog.

To watch the Sew Along video series (including fitting videos), head on over to YouTube. 

 

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1950s | Dresses | Mad Men Inspired | Pattern Drafting | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Vintage Vogue 8789, Fitting and sewing videos!

By on April 20, 2017
Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

Hello, everyone!

A couple of my favorite sewing bloggers (Abi and Akram) have both posted their Easter dresses, so I figured it was about time I posted mine 😘

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

For my Easter/Spring dress I made the super popular Vintage Vogue 8789, which always seems to make a return this time of year.

I actually really love how versatile the pattern is and it still continues to be a vintage sewist favorite, even if the reproduction pattern is out of print!

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

I made my version out of a stunning linen fabric that sews like butter and has such a yummy hand that looks great over a petticoat.

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

I went all out on the interior of my dress, stabilizing the neckline like crazy, using petersham ribbon this way and that to stabilize the seams, and added a waist stay for good measure. I’m equally- if not more so- happy with the interior than the exterior!

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

Pinup Sewing, Vintage Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

 

I actually filmed a fitting video for the girls out there that have to do some insane FBA action, with a petite frame. Shifted some darts around, shortened the length, took in the shoulder seam. In the end, it fit like a glove.

Check out the video for fitting Vogue 8789.

And if you just want to see my sewing tips for it, check out the sewing video for Vogue 8789.

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1940s | 1950s | Accessories | Burlesque / Pinup | Hats | Vintage Sewing

Vintage Headscarf + Free Pattern

By on March 26, 2017
Vintage Headscarf, free sewing pattern | Vintage on Tap

Its been a beat since I originally completed this project over on my blog, but it occurred to me that I never posted this project here, which is a shame since I know there are plenty of readers here who would be super interested!

Inspired by some old-school vintage traveling hoods and vintage headscarfs, I had to make my own from a vintage 1940s pattern, ASAP!

Vintage Headscarf, free sewing pattern | Vintage on Tap

My leopard print headscarf has already seen a bunch of wear since I made it- and all in all, it stitched up about an hour, start to finish. Perfect for protecting your pincurl sets and generally protecting you from the wind and humidity.

Vintage Headscarf, free sewing pattern | Vintage on Tap

I actually am super surprised at how much I love this headscarf- it was such a simple project but it feels super Old Hollywood Glam haha!

Vintage Headscarf, free sewing pattern | Vintage on Tap

I made the drafting instructions available over on my blog if you were interested in making this yourself. Since the pattern is from the 1940s, I figured it would be a good idea to just draw the pieces out (total of 4 pieces, if you’re making a lined version)- and put them online. I also went ahead and did a short video, showing you step by step how to make the hood as well, over on my YouTube channel.

Click to Get the Instructions!

Click to Watch the YouTube video!

I’m actually already planning on sewing this up in a white lawn for the summer time. Its also a good reminder to pick up some fabulous glam sunglasses to rock with it 🙂

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1940s | Coats | Jackets | Vintage Sewing

First Vintage-style Coat, Butterick B5824

By on February 14, 2017

Butterick B5824, Vintage Coat by Vintage on Tap

Not going to lie, I wanna give myself some props for FINALLY diving in and making a jacket. I’ve been psyching myself out for years now and now that the first one is done, I can breathe a sigh of relief. Not to say it was easy exactly- but at the very least it wasn’t the Big Bad Wolf that I thought it was going to be.

Butterick B5824, Vintage Coat by Vintage on Tap

My plaid matching could have been better, but its generally passable. I also underlined the ENTIRE coat, so I can say that this one is officially my warmest coat, even more so than my RTW.

Butterick B5824, Vintage Coat by Vintage on Tap

I lopped off about 4 inches from the bottom of the coat, so it would fall just past my knees. I’m 5’2″ and this thing would have dwarfed me. I also took in the lapels by about an inch and a half so they would be just above my shoulder (most accurate photo for that is on the mannequin)
Vintage on Tap coat inspiration

Another big change I did was to add a belt instead of the button closure. I was inspired by two things-

  • I think the tie is faster to deal with when you’re out and about
  • I didn’t want to deal with bound button holes
More photos of this coat are over on my blog.
Video tutorial for lining technique on my YouTube channel.

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