JetSetSewing.com

In honor of the Charles James exhibit “now playing” at the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute in NYC, I made a Charles James skirt from a 1950s mail order pattern.


As you can see from the side view, the skirt wraps forward from the back, and the waistband starts low in the back and arcs up in the front. It’s a very elegant design. I’m wearing it with a wool jersey shrug from a 1951 pattern by Claire McCardell.
The multicolored top is made of vintage 50s wool challis, lined with silk crepe de chine. It’s made from a “frankenpattern” of a 60s “crushed boatneck” design that I created. Details are on my blog JetSetSewing.com.

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Hi everyone, this winter I’ve been working on a 60s bateau-neck top with a pleat in the shoulder seam, making it a “crushed” bateau. It has a very Mad Men feel to it!
I made it from Italian wool from Janssens et Janssen in Paris, and lined it with silk crepe de chine.

Crushed Bateau-neck top


I used a “frankenpattern” I created from three different patterns, a 60s dress, a current Vogue, and a 50s Lutterloh. You can find details about how I made the muslin on my blog, JetSetSewing.com, how I made the frankenpattern muslin.

The top has French darts in the front, waist and shoulder darts in the back, and two darts at the elbow. The here’s a picture of the dart in the shoulder seam that gives the neckline the crushed drape:

The wool was very soft and stretchy, so not all that easy to work with, but in the end it became beautiful top! You can find construction details on my blog: Making the crushed bateau-neck top.

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60s-style Chanel Jacket

60s-style Chanel Jacket


This is a 60s-style Chanel quilted jacket that I made by modifying a Simplicity “Retro” pattern (2154). I made it using the traditional Chanel construction methods outlined by Susan Khalje and Claire Shaeffer, in that I quilted the lining pieces to the exterior fashion fabric pieces, and then sewed the jacket together largely by hand. You can see the details in my blog post, entitled: \"Blood, Sweat, and Tears\".

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Jacket made from Chanel Pattern

I made this jacket using a pattern released in 1962 by the Spadea company. From my research, it appears to be the only officially licensed Chanel jacket pattern ever released, and it was drafted directly from a retail Chanel jacket, that was sold in the US by the Suzy Perette company. I loved the 60s boxy look, and the extremely thorough instructions, which made constructing the collar and welt pockets a breeze. You can check out details at on my blog, jetsetsewing.com. http://jetsetsewing.com/2013/12/04/im-tired-of-coco-how-about-you/

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