i actually would like to make a little tie for the blouse out of some leftover lantana.

i feel like in the 1930s and 1940s simplicity really and truly lived up to its name. the fashions are very much of the day and relatively easy to construct, provided you don’t actually need the pattern instructions, which are a bit skimpy. the blouse went together in a mere two hours, and languished only because i wasn’t willing to sacrifice the time for a trip to jonathan embroidery for the buttonholes. (#firstworldsewingproblems, right there) unfortunately, the white cotton voile, although completely dreamy, does not photograph well, so you will have to take my word for it that the seams are as awesome as the pattern illustration suggests. i nipped up the back using a trick kenneth king taught me to create a built-in swayback adjustment, and i got a nearly perfect fit.


a few construction details, to justify the post: i did finish the blouse entirely in french seams, including on the armscyes. i topstitched the front panels to give them a bit of extra detail, and created a sort of shirt placket facing by using a piece of silk organza selvedge similar to the way suggested by the “clean facing” technique on off the cuff. i used heart-shaped buttons on everything, just because, and finished the skirt in a just-barely-long enough piece of trip leftover from my “parisienne” dress.

full post at puu’s door of time.




pattern inspiration. it proved too much of a wiggle dress for me, and i couldn't get it fitted properly so i used it as my inspiration to redraw vogue 8409.

9 months in the making, people.  NINE MONTHS.


so, let me run you through the construction details on this new year’s baby. it started off fairly well in march of 2012. i was innocently preparing to use this as my submission for the “mad men” sew weekly challenge. i had cut it out and substituted the skirt and redrew my bodice from vogue 8409 and i was all set. i used the cut-up bodice of my biggest disappointment ever to make bias tape and a neck facing, and decided to use some of that tape to make piping on the waistband. i also decided, because it was the right way to construct it, to bone the waistband, so i used sew-in interfacing and some muslin to create a boning layer. that is where i stopped in march of 2012, after the third time i tried to re-baste all of the layers of that waistband in place.

to finish up this bad boy, i slip-stitched the inside waistband in place, tacked down the neck facing with a catchstitich, and beaded the side zipper because that is one of my favorite details. i also used the last of the bias tape to hem the sleeves for an extra pop of color.

as you can see, the fit is solid but not perfect, but i can live with that because it neither gapes at the neckline nor the bustline and sits pretty nicely at my natural waist. maybe i could have pulled in a slice in the back to accommodate how narrow my back is, but c’est la vie.
full blog post at puu’s door of time.
original inspiration post at puu’s door of time.


The sisters Crawley- Lady Edith, Lady Mary and Lady Sybil, season 2

for many, many moons now i’ve wanted to adapt this dinner dress of lady mary’s (circa 1918 in the show) into something wearable and a little more modern for myself. you may even recall some of my earlier ideas.

after a few false starts, i settled on adapting the design to a t-shirt as the most wearable and achievable goal.  there were some construction adventures, but in the end i’m pretty happy.

full post and more photos at puu’s door of time.
top styled with a modified 1940s simplicity 2571.

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although i’m still pretty embarassed by my sloppy skirt construction, i’m also still a pretty huge fan of my version of simplicity 1927, tackled earlier this summer.

since then, however, i’d had a vision of using a tiny pucci splurge (a mere 1/2-yard from mood fabrics) to eke out the little blouse bodice so that i could have a fun, simple and elegant way to wear this skirt. i love my t-shirt style bodice, but some days it does feel a little bit casual. the pucci is a lot of print, meanwhile, and a simple little bodice seemed a great way to honor that print and not complicated it.

20121212-093736.jpgfull blog post at puu’s door of time.