Vintage Sewing

Pattern review: Vogue 1669: vintage coat

By on June 25, 2020

The pattern

Lined coat has fitted bodice, side front pockets with flaps, two-piece sleeve with slit and center back pleat. View A-Contrast bodice facing and upper collar. Views A, B-Optional bound buttonholes. Sew Rating: Advanced
Re-issue of Vogue Couturier Design 490 from 1949.


Additional info:

  • US 6-14 or US 14-22.
  • Recommended fabrics: flannel, tweed or lightweight woolens
  • Rated advance
  • envelope pattern with multiple sizes

The fabric

  • Wool-look polyester, but the description does not do it justice. It looks really beautiful. I used faded blue for the outside and night blue for the contrasting collar. Weight is 420 g/m² (17,72 oz.yd2)

The thick woolen fabric I picked for this coat works rather well, but it does make it difficult to have the pockets lay flat. Also, if you choose to do the bound button hole option, it might be difficult to fold this the fabric around the holes. Next time I would choose a slightly thinner fabric. The coat itself is definitely warm enough even with a slightly thinner fabric.

Pattern instructions
The instructions are very elaborate and I think anybody can do it, if you read carefully and take each step one at a time. If you plan on making one: here is a list of tips for the steps I thought might be helpful.

Don’t forget to keep two pieces of 2″ bias squares of main fabric for reinforcement.
Seembinding is optional.
Step 4, it asks for a part ease stitching. I don’t know why and I omitted it.
Step 5, I somehow got stuck where it makes the back pleat. The first 2 inches are sewn together, mine isn’t. It is not that difficult, I just could not figure it out after sewing the bodice to the skirt and saw it was different from the picture.
Step 7. Add part 13 first if chosen (bound button holes). It is easier to make the button holes in a piece of fabric instead of later on when the whole outside coat is finished.
Step 11, make sure the pocket is all the way up to the reinforcing stitch as the pocket is supposed to be in the corner of the stitches.
Step 14, under stitching pocket is very necessary, but it will be through 4 layers of fabric which was to much for my sewing machine so it looks a bit bulkier.
Step 41, Oh look, wrong side is showing, why is my piece right side up? Because 5 out of 7 fabric lay-outs are wrong.
Step 42, make a welt-like pocket out of button-holes is not doable with thicker fabric.
Step 58, My machine did not want to understitch facings and coat (since 4 layers of fabric). I sewed the facing to the seam allowances (3 layers of fabric) and pressed well.

Fit

It fits perfectly and the sizing chart is on point. I love the silhouette of the coat. It is long and amazing. The pockets and the lapels really stand out and make the coat.

Conclusion
I can’t wait for coming winter. I will be stylish and comfortable. If I sew quick enough, my mom in law and my sister will have their versions as well.
If you have a copy, don’t be shy to try it out. If I can do it, you definitely can. I had sewn one (kids) coat before and was able to pull it of.

For pictures during sewing see: https://sewingforgenerations.blogspot.com/2020/06/sew-along-vogue-1669-vintage-coat.html

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