1800s | Dresses | Pattern Drafting

Final School Project.

By on May 7, 2015

So I just finish getting unpacked and finally back at home again since leaving school. I had a blasted with all my learning and wanted to show everyone my Final ladies wear project.

So the dress is based on a description in These happy Golden Years by Laura ingots Wilder. I do love Little house on the Prairie books still at 26 and can’t want to read them to my own children one day!  and further information from the manuscript pioneer girl.

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The dress was described as a pink Lawn with delicate blue and red flowers and green leaves.  The waist was tight fitting with two rows of 1/2 inch tucks on either side of the button closure that had tiny pearl buttons, the back have also IMG_2629IMG_2592

Two rows of tucks.  and the Sleeves with long to the elbow with a hems of more tucks. I added a cute ruffle to the sleeves to tie in the ruffles.

The skirt it self was made from straight panels of fabric, gathered into a tiny waistband and every three inches with a 1/2 tuck…all away around the skirt. with a ruffle just under the last tuck that just reached her toes.

it was made in either 1884-85 , between the books she either made it before she got engaged in 84 for the fourth of July, or before she got married in 85, for the fourth of July.

IMG_2658i have plenty of research I won’t bore you with. I also made the corset and petticoat which was more of a wing it type of them, since i hadn’t planned on putting the bustle into the petti, instead i I

i wanted a separate structure

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.IMG_2551  And alas living in Canada finding cotton lawn anywhere is next to impossible, and to order online it would of be 10 a yard and Laura herself used 10 yards.. I ended up using about 6-7 of the material i bought.  Which ended up being a cotton gauze for 3 meter. and i bought 10 meters of safety lol

And with a little adjustment to the bodice, mostly letting out the back side seams and possibly the side seams and finding a way to make it longer as i have my bust then my fit model did and a longer torso, I should be able to wear it for myself! After i make myself a corset, or alter this one!. its a 36 bust and my bust is 39, and its much to short as were the hips are in the corset, well its at my waist on me. if that makes any sense! thanks for reading!

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Vintage Sewing

Play Suit in February.

By on February 25, 2015

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So I haven’t posted things in ages since I’ve been insanely busy with costume studies school. But I managed to make this adorable 40’s inspired play suit.

I drafted the pattern myself for the 40’s week in period cutting/Ladies wear class.
I decided being as it would be fitted to myself and I am not all that comfortable in crop tops I would make a one piece with a sailor collar after researching old 40’s pattern covers.DSC00875

Since it is reading week and I have a much deserved break as we are building for two shows at school. Nothing Scared and Our town so 1860’s and the Edwardian Era, we have a class of 8 girls so it’s an experience in it self on top of our regular homework.

I originally did my play suit in a muslin which was fitted by my classmate. I had to make a few changed, like lengthen the back inseam by 1.5 inches and take the waist darts in on the bodice to match the darts on the attached shorts. and adding an extra inch of length at the waist so i don’t get constant wedgies.

DSC00876I used quilting cotton that I tried to dye Tardis Blue is textiles classes but could not get it dark enough in the vat despite the sample working.
You can slightly see the polka dots on the original fabric as it was cream with slightly darker polka dots. The sailor Collar is polka dot as well and I bias blinded the edges. The belt matches the collar and I found this adorable hook and eye in shape of a twisted sailors rope. so fitting. Its zippered up the back and with a 3-4 inch break from the top where i used an hook and eye to close the gap. Hard to get a decent photo of the back when your working with the 10 second timer.

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Sadly I made this when I was about 10 pounds heavier, so it is little more loose then before but it’s super comfy and I can always take it in once summer comes. since I wish to loose a couple more pounds.

And since i had some time I decided to curl my bob up, I tried to put in some victory rolls but it didn’t cooperate and did my make up for the first time in about 2 months.

Thanks Kristina.

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1800s | Mens | Pants / Trousers

Edwardian Waistcoat and trousers.

By on

So been crazy busy with school but its reading week so I have some time to post some things I have been making lately.  Last semester I had a major Tailoring project which consisted of a waist coat and trousers. I ended choosing the edwardian era, about 1895 was the year I choose.

Before I came to school, I have never made mens wear or anything so time consuming, with all the canvas, slip stitching and cross stiching, india tape and etc.

This was also my first pair of trouser with a fly zip i have made. Which I know is not period accurate. But it’s costume studies we need simple and easy for quick changes if they are necessary.

It’s made from 100% pure wool and lining material that was originally blue satin which did not work out so i switch out for black.

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and by chance I actually fit into my final project so I wear my waistcoat with jeans or some of my circle skirts. the trousers only fit because of the pockets that all my hips to fit into the pants!

Also not really retro, but this semester we made jacket. Totally got my teacher to let me make the latest doctors jacket and it fits!

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Vintage Sewing

Help needed!

By on July 10, 2014

Okay So i am making these cute little shorts, not sure if there retro isn or not but they are adorable.

Well I cut out the patten and figured out my size, and i’m stumped about this part of the pattern. I’ve made lots of bloomers for a show once but they never had a fly extension. And this pattern is not making it easy to decode and the instructions are useless…

Thats the pattern piece i am stuck on, any help would amazing.

Kristina.

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Vintage Sewing

50s/60’s Bathing suit!

By on July 2, 2014

So after many weeks of reading about spandex and how terrifying it was to sew with. I stocked up on some stretch needles, good thread and fearlessly cut my suit out. The Butterick

Either I have a real knack for sewing, or spandex likes me, no idea. It came together in about 8 hours, and its the most adorable suit and I feel much more myself in it then when I wear a two piece and say hell to the world. I love my body, so you judging me won’t bother me. But my extra few pounds from the school year does hinder me with my confidence, even when I know I look just fine. I’ve lost 75 pounds few years ago, and i constantly strive to eat healthy and stay motivated.

Any who, I got matte look spandex in lovely turquoise. I had to change the halter, to actual straps to help support the cleavage. I may go back in and add some extra padding to help give a tad more support. I cut a size 14, and it fits pretty well, i had to take in the bra cups, there was 4 cup sizes to choose from, I cut a C, but found it large so I had to take it in somewhat, So I suggest maybe going down a size, or like i might do build up padding support. Its also inner lined with polylaminate foam, which I had to order online from a bra making store online.

Each seam is sewn three times for extra precaution, two long straight stitches and one zig zag. Sides are gathered to make ruching. The back and leg elastics gave a little trouble lying flat when flipped over, it tended to bubble/tunnel slightly. That might just be my in experience.

It’s fully lined with the spandex, so it gives great stomach control!. And i finally tested out one of my twin needles! to hem and topstitch the bottom of the skirt part!

I have no one to really take so i had to use the handy timer.


That is all! Hope you like it!

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Vintage Sewing

New Here!

By on June 5, 2014

Hi I’m kristina! You can call me Krissy or Tina, or Kris.  I’m a theatre tech student who loves to sew and going to a costume design school in the fall( Fanshawe College) to learn even more about tailoring and historical clothing, millinery, and all that sorts. I’m still getting used to wordpress, I really have no idea how to do this picture thing.

I have one dress from Butterwick,  B5882- Done in cottons, its fully boned, lined, complete with a waist stay. It’s comfortable and fit perfectly in a size 12 generally I cut a size 14.  The pleating was the first pleating I have ever done and was a learning experience.  It was the first 50’s dress I ever made and I love it to death. I wore it to my schools open house and even though you can’t see it I does have a crinoline underneath it!

The blue dress is Vintage vogue- V-8874

It was fun to make and relatively easy.  I missed up the hem! The short pattern was to my ankle! and there was a longer version! I’m only 5’4.  So I tried to shorten it and in majority of it was even, only to find out when i put it on the right front went up! So to solve that problem I just sewed the matching green ribbon to cover up my mistake.

The third dress is not so vintage, but a costume I made for Toronto’s Fan expo! Yes I’m from Canada.  Its Sailor Moon/Princess Serenity!  I added it since it has a slight Regency Flair to it. It’s made out of tessa satin, georgette, and chiffon in the back. I had to hand sew all those lovely pearls, it was lovely.

I have a actual regency pattern in the mail with lovely fabric waiting for it.  I have also a corset in the works slightly french revolution.

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