1940s | Blouses | Skirts | Vintage Sewing

1940’s blouse and skirt in silk

By on September 1, 2014

Despite the dearth of posts I have not abandoned my 40’s wardrobe bulding project. In fact, I have several things finished, I just haven’t got around taking any pictures of it. Bad me. Anyway, in early August we went for a picknic at Skokloster Castle,  an absolutely wonderful 17th century caste a little bit north of Stockholm, and a few photos were taken: a shirt and skirt in brown silk noil for the spring/summer year 1 wardrobe. There is supposed to be a jacket in the same material but that isn’t finished yet and it would have been too hot to wear it even if it was.

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It is very hard to take pictures in our family without at least one animal. Here is Lipton, our Shetland Sheepdog.

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With the castle in the background.

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The straw hat is from the late 40’s/early 50’s and I found it at Pretty Bones Jefferson.

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It is a bit of a frankenpatten. The top is taken from this Vintage Vogue  pattern and I plan to make the jacket to match, the skirt is the bottom  part from a vintage 40’s dress pattern. I’m quite pleased with it and silk noil is lovely to work with and drape well. It is also cool and nice to wear in summer.

 

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1940s | Accessories | Hats

An early 40’s beret

By on March 1, 2014

I made this beret as a part of The Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 and this is the first challenge I have completed. It is a  wool beret in pink/rust tartan and the pattern is The Three Hour Beret, a reproduction pattern from New Vintage Lady, dating from the early 1940’s.  I have wanted to do this beret for some time and as I’m also making a reversible coat with the pink/rust tartan, I thought a matching  beret would look nice with it. The pattern was a little quirky and it was great  fun to sew it. Unfortunately when padded and worn straight it looked absolutely  awful on me. So I removed the padding and tilted it instead and it looked much  better, if not exactly as intended. For another face shape I am sure it will
look smashing as it was intended.

 

Here are a few versions made by New Vintage Lady.

 

 

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1940s | Dresses | Hats | Vintage Sewing

White 40’s shirtwaist dress

By on June 11, 2013

This dress is part of my 40’s wardrobe project. Making a wardrobe after the suggestions from a 1940’s book on “everything a woman need”. Originally posted on my blog where you can find more info on the project.

I started this dress two years ago, for the better part of that time, the only thing left have been the buttons, buttonholes and the hemming. As predicted it didn’t take me long to actually finish it, when I sat down to it and now I can cross off another item on my wardrobe list. Namely the white, washable shirt dress for spring/summer year 1. The pattern is an original 1940’s pattern from Simplicity. For once I didn’t need to make any adjustements to it, probably because the bodice is meant to fit loosely. It fits well around the waist, but it do need a belt to give it a better fit and a more finished look. It is the first time I make a collar like this and I must confess that it shouldn’t be looked at too closely…

The fabric is a very sheer cotton with a woven checkered pattern, completely interlined with plain white cotton to make it opaque. It made the whole cutting process a bit of a bore as I first basted the two layers together and then handled them as one fabric. The buttons are white glass buttons that once sat on one of my grandmother Greta’s dresses. Back then they all had  blue flower painted on them, but wear and tear had reduced them to blue irregular flecks, so I scraped that off. I try to incororate something from my grandmother’s huge stash of sewing supplies whenever I make something, even if it is just basting thread, so I’, very pleased that I was able to use something more visible this time.

Today was the first time I wore it and it is a very comfortable dress. It was quite hot, but the dress was quite cool. As we were going to drin Afternoon tea with some friends that had stipulated hats as a must I also got the opportunity to wear the green Vintage Vogue hat I made some time ago, but never really had chance to wear. The dotted stockings are from What Katie Did and the black suede shoes are from the late 80’s. They do look quite a lot like shoes from the 40’s, though the toe should be a little more rounded.

 
 
I’m not sure if this is really the best cut for my ample bosom, it kind of look like my front are all breasts until my waist start. I usually prefer a more fitted look to avoid that trick of the eye. However, the blousy fit is probably part of why this is such a comfortable and cool summer dress. I predict I will use it a lot!
 

On our way home. The angle of the hat got more and more absurd as the day progressed. The sun glasses are from my grandmother as well and are original ones from the 1940’s.

 

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1910s | Blouses | Embroidery

Embroidered 1910’s blouse

By on January 14, 2013

Cross-posted to my blog Isis’ Wardrobe http://isiswardrobe.blogspot.dk/

This is probably my oldest project and I’m very pleased to have it out of my way. The blouse with its embroideries were bought as a kit for about 15 years ago! It is a reproduction, so cut and embroidery are based on an actual blouse from the 1910’s. I worked on it on and off for a couple of years until the embroideries were done, but for the last ten years, or so, it has been waiting to be sewn together. I thank The Historically Sew Fortnightly project for giving me a nudge to finally finish it.

 

The blouse is in linen and the embroideries in whitework in linen thread. Both back and front have embroideries as well as the collar and the cuffs. The shape is rather simple, though the side seams are curved to give the blouse some shape.

As I started this project such a long time ago I found that the blouse was now a bit too small over the bust. In my stash I found some linen lace that my grandmother had made, so I mounted that on a piece of leftover linen and inserted that at the front. That probably made the blouse a bit more un-correct for the time as that made the blouse so wide that it is now possible to pull it over my head. As I wanted to finish it I decided to leave the buttons out. However, the insert that made the bust part in the right size, also made it too wide above it.

 
When I was finishing it yesterday I felt at loss on how to cope with that without destroying the embroideries as my mind only came up with darts. For this photo I solved it by fold the surplus and hold it together. Now when I look at the pictures I realise that I can, of course, unpick the neck and cut away some fabric at the centre front before re-attaching it to the lace. Oh well, it is wearable as it is now, so for now I will call it a day.
 
 
 

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1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

A housedress from Deacdes of Style

By on August 9, 2012


This summer I completed the housedress from Decades of Style, a project I started more than a year ago.

The pattern
The pattern is a reproduction pattern from 1944. I actually ran across the original pattern at one point and the original had another sleeves option. This pattern however only contains the short wide sleeves. It has a princess cut, a square necklines, buttons down the front and diamond shapes pockets. It comes in nine sizes.

The layout was very clear and it was easy to cut out and sew. I was a bit apprehensive as a princess cut rarely works for my figure, but there is an extra bust dart that helps to shape that area, so it worked out surprisingly well.

My adaptions
I did several. I omitted the ric-rac braid and I also changed the shape on the pockets. I kept the square necklines, but I didn’t finished the same way as the pattern suggested. One thing I noticed when I finally started on the project again was that I had added some girth since I cut it out. It simply wouldn’t work to overlap the fronts for a button closure. I was thinking of putting in a zipper, but then I realized that the dress was actually wide enough to pull over my head. Having recently purchased to authentic 40’s housedresses that both are pulled over the head, I didn’t feel that that was too much cheating. However, if I ever need it, it’s easy to open the front seam and put in buttons.

Slightly wrinkly after a very hot day.

I made it out of fine cotton and it turned out to be a very light and comfortable summer dress for hot days. Nothing fancy, but perfectly wearable outside your home. I have some fabric left, so I think I will make a belt to give the dress a bit more shape. In retrospect I ought to have fiddled a bit more with the fit around the bust as it looks slightly wonky there. However, I really liked working with this pattern and I think it ought to be fairly easy to make sleeve and neckline variation.

X-posted at my own blog

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1930s | Hats | Vintage Sewing

30’s pleated beret

By on May 16, 2012


The Pattern
I bought the pattern for the 1930’s Pleated beret with accent trim as a PDF-pattern from Kalliedesigns at Etsy. When writing this the cost was $4.25. It was mailed to me very promptly, well within the time limit of 24 hours. The pattern is a copy of an old one, and is a bit sloppily executed, I’m sorry to say. The lines are broad and uneven and you need to redraw them to get an even shape. That is, however, not difficult to do. The pattern also contains 2 pages of sewing instructions. I find those easy to follow, but I suspect that you might find it a bit more difficult if you are unused to sewing.

Making the beret
The whole process of making the berest took about 3 1/2 hours, and that includes printing and cutting out the pattern, searching for fabric and notions and the actual sewing. I thought it was a very easy pattern to use. I made it out of faux suede and it took a lot less than the 1/2 yard the pattern calls for, some grossgrain ribbon and an old buckle. Everything I used came from my stash. The finished beret is very soft and I think it may look better in a fabric with more body to it, but as it is you can play around quite a bit with the shape.

So all in all I thought it was a breeze to make and quite cute when finished.

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1940s | Dresses

Swing dress

By on January 9, 2012

Here is a few pictures of Sense & Sensibility’s swing dress. A review on the pattern can be found on my blog.  To be truthful, I have been more pleased with other sewing projects. I strongly suspect the polyester in the wool blend is to blame for the skirt not draping nicely. I really need a brooch at the neckline as it gapes much too much left as it is. The dress isn’t fancy, but it will work nicely for everyday and I’m sure I will wear it, even if I’m not 100% satisfied.

A picture that says a lot of the true circumstances when taking photos in our family. Adolph’s tail in the foreground, Lipton’s ears and Mats thinking that if I’m sitting down, then I must want a cat in my lap.

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