1960s

Simonetta Dress Vogue Coat

By on April 14, 2017

I had to go to a wedding last weekend and used it as an excuse to try out these two patterns – Simonetta Dress, and Vogue Coat.

I seem to always buy a-line empire line dress patterns as its a style I think suits me – and I have now decided that the Simonetta dress is the best ever – I think its the wider shoulder (it extends out but no shoulder pads), as it gives a flattering line (for the pear shaped).  The dress for the wedding I made in a gross grain, and I did run up a ‘wearable’ muslin from a curtain scrap (so I now have 2 nice dresses).  The cut of this dress is simple and very effective, the front seam has a curve in it, as do the darts.  The collar was tricky only in that I had never done one like this.  Its basically 2 strips of bias, folded, and steamed into a curved shape.

 

 

The coat is in a cotton.  I had wanted to make a casual summer coat so went with a neutral colour and casual fabric.  I did interline it as the fabric creased like linen (and looks like linen), but did not interline the sleeves (1, because its a summer coat and 2, because I didnt think the bias would hold creases).  I was rather cheap and interlined with light sew-in basting, I don’t interline a lot, but if I was able to locate it (I wasn’t), I would have preferred to have used hankerchief cotton or a voile.

 

The only really technical bit about the coat was the use of ‘pad stitching’ in the collar.  I had never done this before and so referred to the wonderful Allyne Bane book and it was all clear.  I only did a medium amount of pad stitching, and it serves well.  after the pad stitching, I did baste the collar roll line in place and left this stitching in until the final steam.  Even though its a casual coat, I think the sit of the collar is gorgeous – I notice it in the wearing  as it sits away from the neck and it really feels like the coat hangs from the shoulders…..I dont know if I am explaining this correctly, but it feels exactly what is perfect for an evening or summer coat, and I dont think I ever had a coat that sat like this, which is another fabulous reason to sew vintage/sew your own!

 

I do have a blog – upsew.ie  if anyone wants to see other projects, – but I have pretty much replicated the post here!

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1940s

Advance 5232 Blouse in Liberty Silk

By on April 10, 2016

A few days ago, someone on the WeSewRetro fb page asked if anyone ever used liberty silk, which prompted me to revisit and finish this blouse. I started last Autumn.  I had picked up some Liberty Silk a few months previous, and as it was relatively expensive and I was only buying it on a whim I bought .75m, which was really limiting my making options.

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I got this pattern on Vintage Pattern Bazaar and thought it perfect for the Liberty, which it really was.  I had to grade up one size, as well as taking a small bit of the shoulders as I was not going to put shoulder pads in.  I cut it out and it all just about fitted (the selvedge were incorporated into the back seam.  I also decided to sew it on an old Brother/Jones machine as it had a silk setting and I was curious to know what that was.  I soon found out it means sewing in tiny tiny stitches which ended up being a bit of a pain, and if I was to do it again, I would just sew on my usual singer at usual settings.  The main reason it was a pain, is that I also did the gathering (what was I thinking) and the top-stitching in this stitch.  The top stitching looked awful.  it made the shirt look ‘country and western’ style and as I was in no mood to take out tiny stitches, I popped it into my wardrobe so not to look at it for a while (head in sand etc).

Anyway, when the post came up on facebook, it was a timely reminder to finish the blouse.  I undid the top stitch and sewed the yoke underneath, and it looked way better.  I hand hemmed, and put a cream button and loop (I couldn’t remember where the fabric scraps were to cover the button and make a new loop – so now – blouse finished.  Liberty silk is lovely to work on.  the weave is very dense and fine (and very strong!).

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1960s

vogue 6879 – a big plaid dress

By on March 13, 2016

I think like a lot of sew-ers, I seem to keep buying the same pattern over and over, well not the sam1e, but the same style, I am generally drawn to

16879 – a line dresses (pockets a bonus)

2 – empire line

3 – funnel neckline

 

 

 

 

and this pattern had all three.  I also had some plaid leftover that had just made a disappointing skirt, and as I looked at thrown over mannequin, I thought it would make a better dress.    I managed to squeeze the dress pattern, and I put the hem line as near to crease of knee as I could – this is the hemline that seems to suit me best as I only really wear flat shoes and I think it gives a flattering proportion to me anyway….

 

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The cut didnt take long, and it was a quick sew.  I attached the lining to the panels as it seemed the most straightforward approach.  Its a great pattern and I would highly recommend, although the only drawback (and its minor) is the cut of neckline and sleeve cap does make movement slightly restrictive, so not really a dress for housework!

 

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1950s

Pauline Trigere Coat – Mc Calls 7520

By on November 28, 2014

Last spring, I was in a charity shop and I saw a coat for 2euro, I was amazed as the fabric quality was great, but the cut of the fabric was right from the 1980s and had humungous shoulders….. anyway I got it, and over the next few weeks bought some more coats from the bargain rail and it pretty much started me thinking on about – remaking/refashioning clothes, all the limitations of fast fashion, and the shocking amount of what ends up in charity shops – and my blog started from the coats really

mc call 7530This is the second of the 6 coats to get remade.  The first was the jacket from this pattern which I was very pleased with, so I thought the coat could be a good follow-up.  Making the coat was not as straightforward as the jacket, and I had to compromise on a few things (addition of cuff, and coat length), and the fabric quality was not as luscious as the last coat, and has also stitch marks left by patch pockets.  However, I did get to wear it, and like it (camel is not a colour I wear, and I am now converting – it looked great with jeans and black sweater)

before after copy

 

There are a 2  issues, the first is the previous patch pockets left some marks which I hope will ease in time, and I will re-steam the coat in a few weeks and they may lessen.  The second issue is I notice the fabric absorbed some water from being splashed when I wore it out, and the water soaked immediately, and dried within 20 minutes.  For the 20 minutes – the splash marks looked like grease marks and the coat looked grubby (and I didn’t feel quite so classy in my new coat).  I don’t know if the coat had some detergent used on it at some time to make it so absorbent, or if camel wool does this (which I doubt) – so I am now considering spraying some scotch-guard and seeing if this will help!

 

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Vintage Sewing

plaid overblouse, simplicity 3636

By on October 26, 2014

I got a plaid skirt years ago in a charity shop.  The colours and fabric were / are gorgeous but everything I ever thought to make from it fell by the way side and I was at a loss, until I figured on an overblouse.  They are brilliant – this is the first one I have ever made and I am a convert, I always like a slight tailored look, but it also has to be as comfortable as a sweater and this is.  I should have been a bit more generous when I graded up, but other than that this pattern will be used again!  I tried the collar and didnt like it as its a lie flat collar, the next one I make I am thinking of a roll top collar.  The long sleeve T was also an upcycle/refashion.fb page

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1960s

pauline trigere dress/dresses Mc Calls 7530

By on October 3, 2014

the more pauline trigere clothes I see, the bigger a fan I am, so I was delighted when I saw this on etsy, and in a size 34.  I thought I would give a go at the dress first, but as I am trying to make up these vintage patterns by upcycling, getting the sufficient amount of fabric wasn’t that straightforward, especially as the bodice takes a lot fabric than expected (its especially wide at bust).

McCalls 7530

I made 2 versions, the first one in orange was made to envelope size so I could get a sense of what the full design was like, and the second one in blue I made bigger in the skirt as I am a classic pear.  the blue fabric was so light it had to be starched, and both dresses have short underskirts but I think the gathers are awful on the blue dress (so I dont know if its the starch, the underskirt, or just excessive gathers).  It fits fine but the gathers are too much, and I am thinking of trying some soft tucks instead, but figure I should leave it for a while, and maybe a fresh look at it in a few weeks, the fit of the bodice is divine, and only 2 darts…..more at my blog 

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERApauline trigere mc calls 7530

 

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1950s | Vintage Sewing

butterick 2704 – green wool coat with kimono sleeve

By on September 6, 2014

 

green cloak

I bought this cloak in a charity shop locally, the colour is a vivid green, and the wool is a mid weight tweed.  I think it was originally a cloak used in a primary school play or float for St Patrick. (Irelands patron saint) as it was made for someone slightly smaller than me. Some time ago I had up-cycled (well not really as it didnt really up) another cloak unsuccessfully to a jacket, where is should have worked with the cut of cloth I had,  and used kimono sleeves, so at least l learned from the experience when I went to make this one.  Incredibly easy, its a reversible (if desired) coat, but I just lined it, changed the length, and pocket style.  I am thinking I may use a hook eye close at top or make a decorative frog (?) but have not decided.  Coat very comfortable and very wearable as is, so no hurry!

green coat 2 copy
butterick 2704 green coat with kimono sleeve

 

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