Vintage Sewing

HSF Challenge 22: Gentlemen

By on November 1, 2014
Wow it looks like I don’t have hands in this picture….

So my Halloween costume ended up doubling as a HSF Challenge, specifically Challenge #22: Gentlemen. The aim of the challenge was to either create a garment for a man or a menswear inspired piece for a woman. Well I made overalls so I guess that counts!  I went as a Woman’s Land Army: Crop Corps member. The overall’s are made with denim from my stash, it has some stretch so I’m assuming the fabric has lycra in it (not historically accurate but using up the stash, yay!) The buttons, zipper and bias tape are also from stash. The only thing I had to purchase was the pattern. I used Wearing History’s Overall pattern (I see jeans and other pants in my future) during Lauren’s Kickstarter campaign. I chose not to line the bodice and instead I used bias tape to face it. The tops of the pockets are also faced. The buttons were from something my grandmother gave me to chop up but I can remember what. The hem is hand stitched and so it the zipper. I added a zipper instead of the button placket because 1 I didn’t feel like making all those buttonholes, 2 I didn’t have more of the same buttons in the stash and 3 I wasn’t quite sure how to attach the placket so I try that another time when I don’t have a deadline. With the overalls I made a WLA armband. I used red and navy yarn for the design and some scrap navy fabric for the main piece. These overalls are super comfy once you get used to the lower crotch length. Mummum gave me the shirt to wear with it and then I just wore my brown boots to complete the look. I feel like I should have my hair in a bandanna or a snood but oh well.

 
The Scoop:
Fabric: Stretch Denim from the Stash
Pattern: Wearing History Overall and Trouser Pattern

Year: 1940’s
Notions: Bias tape in two colors for top and pockets, two button and a zipper.
Hours to Complete: Sewn over 4 days including a mock up
First worn?: Halloween
Make again?: Yes! plus pants and shorts and a short overall playsuit too!
Total cost: $12 for the pattern but everything else came from the stash.
I’ll Leave you with a picture of me wearing my new overalls with my red wool Ike Jacket but pop on over to http://perdudansletemps.blogspot.com/ to see more

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Vintage Sewing

Murphy’s Law Hat and a surprise HSF

By on September 15, 2014

I’ve made a cap and a headscarf but never a proper hat until now. The pattern was from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library a reproduction of Simplicity 1353 dated 1934. I made the caplet from this pattern for my first Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge.  Incidentally Murphy also qualifies for the Historical Sew Fortnightly for Challenge #13: Under $10. 

The fabric is a raspberry colored suiting from Joann’s that I used for my 1936 Suit.

The lining is also from that suit and is just a poly/cotton mix. This was my first time working with crinoline and also using self covered buttons. The Self covered buttons were good practice for what I actually bought the kit for, a Frankensteined Ike Jacket, because I found out a ball pein hammer works better than the little blue plastic setter the kit gives you.  But let’s get back to the fact that this hat fought me the whole time I was making it. The fabric argued with me, the directions tricked me, I wasted at least 4 button backs, and I sewed every seam at least twice. Everything that could have gone wrong did go wrong.  One other fix I had to do was add a pipe cleaner to one of the seams because it kept wanting to collapse for some reason but I fixed that too. I kept hacking away at it and now I have a very stylish hat named Murphy.





The Challenge: # 13 Under $10

Fabric: Raspberry Colored Suiting Fabric and Purple poly/cotton lining.

Pattern: Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1930 Ladies Hat, Gloves, Purse and Collar Ensemble a reproduction of Simplicity 1353

Year: 1934

Notions: 4 Self Covered buttons

Hours to complete: About a week of on/off sewing

First worn: Not yet. 

Total cost: Pattern $15 but since it has four items I’m saying the pattern for the hat cost $3.75, Crinoline was $2.99, Fabric scraps from stash, Self Covered Buttons free, and thread was also from my  stash. So Murphy cost $6.74

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1940s | Coats | Jackets

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #15: The Great Outdoors

By on September 13, 2014

For my second entry for the Great Outdoors challenge I made a red wool version of Simplicity 4366.

I love Ike jackets and I wanted one of my own for a while but then I found the red wool and decided that I would pay homage to the Ike jacket but make it my own. I have to give credit to Tasha from By Gum By Golly for starting the sewing bug for the jacket. Tahsa made a great 1940’s jacket for Rochelle’s Sew for Victory last year (2013) in a wonderful green fabric. From the moment I saw the jacket I knew I had to make one and here it is. The shoulders are gathered into a yoke and the waist of the jacket is gathered into a waistband. The sleeves are gathered at the wrist and finished with a cuff that buttons. The buttons are self covered and the red wool cooperated in waves that Murphy’s buttons couldn’t dream of doing. Oh and I swear the fabric is red the camera appears to have made it a bit pink.

The pattern called for self made shoulder pads but instead of stuffing them I used two layers of crinoline. The crinoline made the jackets shoulders keep their shape but don’t make me look like a linebacker (which I appreciate). The Jacket is also fully lined; the pattern didn’t call for it but I knew I wanted it lined because of the wool. I had to adjust the facing piece because of the change but that was a quick fix. For all of the buttonholes I used my grandmothers Singer 9134 which is cranky but works most of the time. I added the pockets to the front, they’re from Colette Pattern’s blog Coletterie and can be found here. For attaching the pockets I had to wing it since I don’t have the original Colette pattern the pockets actually go to.

The Scoop:

Fabric: Red Tango Wool and Medieval Blue Lining
Pattern: Simplicity 4366
Year: 1940’s if anyone knows the specific date I would be grateful
Notions: 9 self covered buttons
First worn?: Only around the house, it’s not cool enough outside to wear wool
Make again?: Yes but the peplum version in green corduroy with flannel lining
Total cost: Pattern $12 but I’ll say $6 because there’s a skirt pattern with the jacket, Wool Fabric $19.24, Lining $9.98, Self Covered Button Kit $5.99 so total $41.21

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1930s | Dresses

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #14: Paisley & Plaid

By on August 12, 2014
Ok so the challenge was due on August 1st…..10 days late isn’t tooo bad. My entry to HSF is a 1939 Purple Plaid Brushed Cotton Flannel Dress. I’ve dubbed it the “Secretary Dress” it’s justDuBarry 2347B made with the long sleeves ( I LOVE the darts on the sleeves!). I made the short sleeve version last year. This time around I took a 1/2″ out of the waist and went with regular machine made buttonholes instead of bound button holes. The skirt is lined with a poly/cotton lining but I didn’t line the bodice because I would rather feel the flannel next to my skin than lining material. Matching the plaid was also a challenge on the dress but overall I’m very pleased with the way it came out. This dress matches my favorite pair of shoes which was part of the allure in making the dress but he hunt is still on for  proper purple stocking.

The belt I made from a 1950’s self covering buckle kit that I found on Etsy. This was my first time making a belt but I had fun with it. The fabric is just a solid purple flannel that you cut 3 times wider than the belt and fold so there are no exposed raw edges. The fun part came when I had to put the grommets in because at that point I realized I did not have an awl so I scurried out to JoAnn’s to buy one and then came back to finish the belt. 

The prong was the most difficult part and I’m still not 100% satisfied with it but the belt works and stays where it’s supposed to. I’m thinking of making some belt loops on the dress to keep the back and sides from shifting around. 
All the dress needs now is a tie!

 




The Scoop:

Fabric: Purple Plaid Brushed Cotton Flannel from their Plaiditude Collection
Pattern: DuBarry 2347B
Year: 1939
Notions: Zipper and 5 Buttons
Hours: I didn’t keep track
First worn?: Not yet, it’s too warm out!
Make again?: I’m not sure. I like the style but I might find something else I like more

Total cost: Pattern $7 (but I’ve already used it so it doesn’t count) Fabric $20, Lining $5.08, Buttons $5.18 and Zipper $1.49 Belt Kit $4.50 Belt Fabric $.45 Total coming to $36.70

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1930s | Accessories

My First Entry in the 2014 Historical Sew Fortnightly

By on January 14, 2014

So I decided to dive into the 2014 Historical Sew Fortnightly hosted by the wonderful Leimomi. She hosted the same event last year but most of the sewing I did fell outside of the dates for the challenges. This year the date has been extended to 1945, so my WW2 pattern stash can finally be put to work!  The first challenge was in spirit of the WW2 campaign for ‘Make Do & Mend’ a huge task for those on the home front in Europe and the US because of rationing. Ironically I chose a pattern that would have worked for last years challenge; a reprint of Simplicity 1353 dated 1934 from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library (Evadress.com also has a reprint of the pattern in a larger size, the one from VPLL is a medium) The pattern consists of a hat, collar, gloves, and a purse. I made the collar for this challenge from fabric left over from my 1937 skirt.

 
 
I had to cannibalize the scrap piece left to match the grainlines but it worked! I also lined the collar in some of the fashion fabric because of the reveres that would show the lining and also I wanted the front piece line in the flannel for warmth and stability. The other bits of lining came from my 1936 suit skirt  lining (again post to follow) but those grainlines don’t match up because the word cannibalize doesn’t even cover what I had to do to those scraps though I am proud to say I only had to piece together one section of the collar. This pattern is a good example of the “expectation and reality” of sewing because unless you are magic those points don’t come out as pointy as the picture and the revers aren’t quite as picturesque as the drawing, (till you press them within an inch of their lives and then tack them down.) But I am insanely in love with this piece and I do plan on making more.
The Challenge: # 1 Make Do & MendFabric: 100% Brushed Cotton in a Blue and Black Herringbone pattern and Navy poly/cotton lining.Pattern: Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1930 Ladies Hat, Gloves, Purse and Collar Ensemble a reproduction of Simplicity 1353
Year: 1934

Notions: One Button

Hours to complete: It took 4 days of on/off sewing

First worn: Not yet. Audrey had the pleasure though I do plan on wearing it for an upcoming lunch date.

Total cost: Pattern $15 but since it has four items I’m saying the pattern for the collar cost $3.75, Fabric from stash, Button and thread also from stash. So all in all it cost me $3.75 to make.1930 Ladies Hat, Gloves, Purse and Collar Ensemble

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Vintage Sewing

Help Please

By on July 9, 2013

I was thinking about making Simplicity 0260 and I was wondering about what size to cut out. I usually cut out a 12 with a 34″ bust but the wearing ease on the pattern says it comes out to 41″. That seems like it’s going to drown me in fabric. I looked at a size 6 and the final measurement is 37 1/2. To me that sounds like a better option but I’ve never had to do this before because I usually work with original vintage patterns and there is not nearly as much ease to deal with. Any advice on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

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1930s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

Operation Suprise

By on July 6, 2013

Happy Independence Day Everyone!! (well now it’s a bit late because I didn’t get my picture up in time)

This year I decided to make a dress for the 4th. M was going to take me to Community Days to walk around and then Saturday are the fireworks but we watch them from the roof. I didn’t tell M what I was making and only gave him hints over three days. I sent him a picture of the fabric, told him the pattern was from 1939 and then told him it was a dress. I used Du Barry 2347B from 1939  and made it with short sleeves. I love the dress. It’s light and airy because of the seersucker fabric which was a blessing because it was sooo humid at the fair. I took 6″ off the hem because I’m so short and I had to hack off almost 4″ on the sleeves because they were too long. I will have to redo the buttons because I bought 5/8″ buttons instead of 3/4″ and it makes a huge difference with the bound buttonholes.  I went to Joann’s to get the new buttons and because of their Independence Day sale I also walked away with a curved ruler that includes a French Curve and Hip curve plus instructions on how to alter patterns. The dress needed five bound buttonholes in the front and then it had a side zip too. To complete the outfit I wore a belt my grandmother gave me and my WW2 weekend hat with a navy sash tied around it. I love that hat, it is going to be my go to hat for everything I think. I have fabric to make this up again but with long sleeves and maybe it’ll get done before I go to England for a semester.
The Scoop:

Fabric: I don’t know the specifics but it was from JoAnn’s and it’s 100% Cotton I think it was in the shirting section
Pattern: DuBarry 2347B
Year: 1939
Notions: Zipper and 5 Buttons
Hours: Four days of off and on sewing
First worn?: July 4th 2013
Wear again?: Yes
Make again?: Yes, but I’m going to make it with long sleeves and in purple flannel but I’m sure I’ll make it with short sleeves again it’s such an easy style to wear

Total cost: Pattern $7 Fabric $12.12 First set of Buttons $1.24 Second set of Buttons $6.00 and Zipper $2.49 Total coming to $28.85

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