1950s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

Simply Red Sheath Dress (Butterick 6308, c. 1952)

By on July 12, 2016

I love being able to wear vintage (or reproductions) to work and this dress definitely fits the bill.

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The pattern is Butterick 6308, a reproduction of one of their designs fom 1952.

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I made my version out of stretch bengaline, which makes it super comfortable for work (and weight fluctuations).

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I also added faux chest pockets, and vintage buttons sewn around the edge of the pockets – similar to a vintage dress I had seen online.

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As for mods, I only made a few:

 

  • Cut a size smaller all over to allow for the stretch fabric
  • Lengthened the hem by an inch
  • Shortened the bodice by half an inch (short waist)
  • Lowered the under bust darts so they wern’t so pointy.

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I definitely love this dress, and would consider making another but probably without the kick pleats as I found them a bit painful to press.

Thanks for reading, and as always more photos and information on my blog Subversive Femme 

xxx

 

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1940s | 1950s | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

1940s Jeans (EvaDress/Simplicity 3322)

By on July 5, 2015

I freakin’ love these jeans, and I love how versatile the EvaDress Wide Leg Trouser pattern is!

It might be hard to believe, but these jeans started life as very wide legged swing trousers, from EvaDress 3322.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The fabric was a medium weight denim (not as heavy as rigid denim), and I used a beige top-stitch thread instead of golden-yellow.

I also made a top of modifications, including:

  • Raising the crotch depth about half an inch (they were a fraction too low last time I used this pattern)
  • Narrowing the legs and hips a bit more
  • Removing the front waist dart (tutorial coming to my blog very soon)
  • Adding the slant pockets
  • Add belt carriers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Result = Freddies of Pinewood eat your heart out! Super comfy and I need more pairs of these in my life right now!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As always, more details on my blog and thanks for letting me post…

 

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1940s | Pants / Trousers | Vintage Sewing

1940s Wide Leg Trousers (EvaDress/Simplicity 3322)

By on May 13, 2015

2015 seems to be the the Year of the Pants for me – no more procastinating.

On the way  to sewing my dream project – perfect vintage jeans – I finally made the EvaDress Wide Leg Trousers (3322), a repro of Simplicity 3322 c.1940. The fabric is navy gaberdine.

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I haven’t made an EvaDress pattern before, so I wasn’t sure what to expect with fit etc. I did have to make four muslins to get the fit right though – it may have been due to the pattern grading to a large size (I made size 40). Thankfully pants are normally pretty quick to sew up.

The main changes I made were to use a back zipper instead of side buttons, and to lengthen the crotch depth by about 3/4 inch.

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I’ve already made another pair up in cranberry gaberdine, and have a chocolate pair waiting in the wings too.

Even better, they go perfectly with a Smooth Sailing Blouse that I made a while back (isn’t orange and navy a great combination?). I think this may be the 15th time I’ve made this pattern up, it’s such a great staple.

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As always, there’s more on my blog!

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1950s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

Western Jeans (Butterick 5895 meets Advance 8341, c. 1957)

By on March 28, 2015

I’m a little bit obsessed with Butterick 5895 (Gertie’s pants) now that I’ve gotten the fit perfected – so I thought I’d try making a pair of western jeans (ranch pants) from the same pattern.

The inspiration was this pattern – Advance 8341, View 1 – Frontier Pants.

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I guessed what the pockets should look like from a pair of Freddies Jeans, and added them to the Butterick version (and lengthened the legs).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pockets turned out better than I hoped for! I’m specially proud of the button holes – my machine is 1950’s and it’s pretty hard to do a nice button hole.

The fabric is stretch denim, but it’s not super stretchy as it holds it’s shape really well.

There’s nothing I would change about these jeans – not one thing!

If you’re interested, I did a quick tutorial on my blog showing how to adjust your pants pattern to allow for a bigger booty or belly (and what the Butterick pattern looks like unmodified for curves).

Share the curvy love!

XXX

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1950s | Modern Patterns | Pants / Trousers

Everyone loves a Bad Girl (Butterick 5895)

By on March 23, 2015

I feel really late to the party sewing up Gertie’s Butterick 5895 – better late than never though!

I’d wanted a pair of 1950s fitted pants for ages, but wasnt sure a bigger gal like me could pull them off – I was so wrong!

With a few mods (full list on my blog) to make adjustments for a big booty and large calves, they fit perfectly.

I used a stretch cotton chino (had it for 10 years in my stash) and would recommend using a heavier weight stretch cotton so it won’t hug your bumps and lumps.

Verdict – perfection! I need these in ankle length, in demin, and in novelty prints! I can also see these pants being the basis for little shorts, and maybe even a playsuit.

Bigger girls – definitely add these to your sewing list! xxx

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1940s | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

A Christmas Pinny-dress, c. 1944 (Simplicity 1212)

By on November 30, 2014

Ahhh…. nothing like spending a hot Aussie Xmas in a comfortable cotton dress!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The fabric is an adorable vintage christmas border print, with ‘Merry Christmas’ in different languages written across the white background – and candles across the border.

I hoped there would be enough for a dress, and after a frantic search through my collection I found Simplicity 1212 – pinafore dresses from 1944.

Photo from Vintagesewingpattern wiki

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Did I mention pockets?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The only major changes I made to the pattern was to cut the  back pieces on the fold instead of have a button back – I didn’t have a lot of fabric to work with and needed to save as much as I could! I faced everything with white lawn to reduce the fabric requirement too – the dress took roughly 3m of fabric in the end.

If you’d like to read about it in more detail, there’s a post on my blog…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for letting me share!

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1950s | 1960s | Dating Patterns | Dresses | Mail Order Patterns | Pattern Sizing | Vintage Sewing

A Fish Trap Tiki Dress

By on November 2, 2014

It’s just about summer down here in Australia – and that means it’s time to start sewing summer dresses!

I’ve just finished a ‘Design by Clothilde’ pattern 3170, and it’s from 1960 (although I tried my darnedest to make it looks 50s).

And the pattern – isn’t the neckline killer?!

The fabric is an Indigenous Australian design called ‘Fish Traps’, another Babbarra Women’s Centre print from Spotlight. Thank goodness I got it for $7 a meter on sale, as this sucker took five meters! (The fabric was originally $20/m).

I’m in love with these Babbarra prints, they looks really ‘tiki’ in my opinion!

I had to re-size from a 36″ bust to a 40″ bust (and the waist of course), but it worked out fine. I completely lined the bodice and added some side boning for stability.

I also changed the skirt from a pleated circle skirt, to box-pleated skirt cut straight on the grain – the fabric pattern would have looked a bit odd otherwise.

If you’d like to read further, I have more on my blog!

 

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