I had to go to a wedding last weekend and used it as an excuse to try out these two patterns – Simonetta Dress, and Vogue Coat.
I seem to always buy a-line empire line dress patterns as its a style I think suits me – and I have now decided that the Simonetta dress is the best ever – I think its the wider shoulder (it extends out but no shoulder pads), as it gives a flattering line (for the pear shaped). The dress for the wedding I made in a gross grain, and I did run up a ‘wearable’ muslin from a curtain scrap (so I now have 2 nice dresses). The cut of this dress is simple and very effective, the front seam has a curve in it, as do the darts. The collar was tricky only in that I had never done one like this. Its basically 2 strips of bias, folded, and steamed into a curved shape.
The coat is in a cotton. I had wanted to make a casual summer coat so went with a neutral colour and casual fabric. I did interline it as the fabric creased like linen (and looks like linen), but did not interline the sleeves (1, because its a summer coat and 2, because I didnt think the bias would hold creases). I was rather cheap and interlined with light sew-in basting, I don’t interline a lot, but if I was able to locate it (I wasn’t), I would have preferred to have used hankerchief cotton or a voile.
The only really technical bit about the coat was the use of ‘pad stitching’ in the collar. I had never done this before and so referred to the wonderful Allyne Bane book and it was all clear. I only did a medium amount of pad stitching, and it serves well. after the pad stitching, I did baste the collar roll line in place and left this stitching in until the final steam. Even though its a casual coat, I think the sit of the collar is gorgeous – I notice it in the wearing as it sits away from the neck and it really feels like the coat hangs from the shoulders…..I dont know if I am explaining this correctly, but it feels exactly what is perfect for an evening or summer coat, and I dont think I ever had a coat that sat like this, which is another fabulous reason to sew vintage/sew your own!
I do have a blog – upsew.ie if anyone wants to see other projects, – but I have pretty much replicated the post here!