1950s | Pattern Drafting | Skirts

Skirt and bolero

February 8, 2015

This bright orange stuff has been in my stash for over a year. It looks a lot like wool but the seller was certain it’s cotton. It did shrink like cotton when I washed it and it doesn’t smell like wool when I iron it, so I guess he was right.

rok1For a while, I’ve wanted to make a pencil skirt from this stuff, and now I finally did. I re-worked my skirt sloper to get rid of a small fitting issue which has started to annoy me now that I’m even more critical than before.

Because this fabric is rather thick, I didn’t want to make a vent or a kick pleat. Instead, I took inspiration from my vintage skirt patterns: In the vast majority of those, the sleek pencil skirts are actually slight A-lines. Which makes sense, of course. It would help keep the skirt from riding up when you walk and it would make it fall back into place neatly when you stand up. Usually, the A-line effect is just a little bit and the skirt still gets a pleat to give it enough leg room.

rok2In this case, I thought I had made it just wide enough to go without a pleat and yet still narrow enough to look like a pencil skirt. It turns out I could have done with a little bit more width at the hem, but I suppose that will teach me to walk like a lady 😉

Schermafbeelding 2015-02-08 om 09.24.31The skirt is fully lined and has patch pockets without topstitching (set in from the side seam. I made a tutorial for it) at the front.

The bolero is a very simple pattern I drafted a couple of years ago: One pattern piece, cuffs and a binding along the edge. Very quick and easy to make but I really like the look with a skirt like this.

More about it on my blog!

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